The teacher's hand-book of slöjd, as practised and taught at Nääs; containing explanations and details of each exercise ..

THE TEACHERS

BY OTTO SALOMON

SILVER, BURDETT&C91

BOSTON, NEW YORK* 1

CHICAGO, J

THE TEACHER'S

HAND-BOOK OF SLOJD

ffew Manual draining Publications.
RAFIA WORK.

A course of practical work in Winding, Weaving, Plaiting and
Sewing this new material : forming a valuable addition to the list of
educative occupations for schools. With 60 beautiful Illustrations.
By C. M. SWANNELL. F'cap 410, cloth, 2s. net (Postage 3d.).

PAPER MODELLING.

A combination of Paper Folding, Paper Cutting and Pasting, and
Ruler Drawing, forming an introduction to Cardboard Modelling.
Containing over 100 carefully drawn Diagrams, printed in monotint,
in addition to the Illustrations of the Completed Models in black
and white. By C. M. SWANNELL. Oblong 410, price 2s. 6d. net
(Postage 3d.).

CARDBOARD MODELLING.

A series of 32 Models arranged for use in Elementary and
Secondary Schools, Technical Classes, etc., and satisfying the re-
quirements for the Advanced Teacher's Certificate of the Educational
Handwork Union. By ALBERT SUTCLIFFE, Organiser of Educa-
tional Handwork to the Glamorganshire County Council. New
Edition. Imperial 8vo, cloth, 2s. 6d. Prospectus free.

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A Series of seven Packets of Designs, each containing 12 Cards,
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LEAF FOLDING : A New Nature-Study Occupation.

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Tongue Fern, by Miss FRYER, Kindergarten Mistress, Shrewsbury
High School. In packet containing a series of 12 Designs with
descriptive notes and full instructions, 8d. ; in box containing above
set, also set of models on coloured paper, cut out and made up, 48
sheets of coloured papers for stencilling, cutting out and making up,
with pair of scissors and pins. 2s. 6d. net. Prospectus free.

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LONDON: GEORGE PHILIP & SON, LTD.

THE TEACHER'S

HAND-BOOK OF SLOID

AS PRACTISED AND TAUGHT AT NAAS

CONTAINING EXPLANATIONS AND DETAILS OF
EACH EXERCISE.

WITH PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MODELS.

By OTTO SALOMON,

Director oj the Ndas Seminarium.
ASSISTED BY CARL NORDENDAHL AND ALFRED JOHANSSON.

TRANSLATED AND ADAPTED FOR ENGLISH TEACHERS

BY MARY R. WALKER, AND WILLIAM NELSON,

St. George's Training College, Edinburgh. Superintendent of Manual Instruction, Manchester.

THIRD EDITION.

WITH OVER 130 ILLUSTRATIONS AND PLATES.

SILVER, BURDETT & CO.,

PUBLISHERS,

BOSTON, NEW YORK, CHICAGO.
1907.

GEORGE PHILIP AND SON, LTD , PRINTERS, LONDON AND LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND.

PREFACE TO THE SWEDISH EDITION.

A DESIRE has for some time been expressed in various quarters for a
Hand- Book of Slqjd, written from the educational point of view. There
have been many indications, especially in connection with Slojd carpen-
try, that teachers are not well enough acquainted with the tools em-
ployed to select and manage them properly ; and a degree of uncertainty
seems to prevail regarding the right method of executing the exercises.
Now, it is true that no one can acquire this knowledge from books ; the
way to acquire it is by practical, personal experience. Yet, to retain this
experience, and apply it, is partially a matter of memory, and, therefore,
systematically arranged directions are capable of rendering aid which is
not to be despised. A hand-book like the present does not, and could
not, supersede personal experience at the bench, or render a course of in-
struction unnecessary. Its sole object is to supplement and complete
the notes which every conscientious student takes during such a course.
Its aim is, therefore, chiefly to strengthen and confirm knowledge already
acquired ; but, though it is thus limited in scope, and, on this account,
perhaps to be regarded as in some respects incomplete, the writers
venture to express the hope that it will be welcomed by many teachers.

Books are, perhaps, more frequently published before their time than
after it ; and although there have been numerous opportunities for observ-
ation in the province of Educational Slojd during the last eighteen years
(the Slojd Institution at Naas having begun operations in 1872), the
writers are nevertheless uncertain whether the time has really yet come
for the publication of definite directions ; or, at least, whether tlieir know-
ledge of the subject is yet complete enough to justify their appearance
in print. But, if they have been premature, the sole reason is to be
found in their desire to satisfy a want, which becomes every year more
pressing.

The views expressed in the book are, for obvious reasons, in full ac-
cordance with the system of instruction followed at Naas. They are the
outcome of careful observations, and of experiments tested by practice.
Yet, even if these views should be confirmed by many teachers, the
writers, knowing that opinions are divided in the matter of instruction in
Slojd, as in most other questions, are fully prepared for adverse criticism.
Whether this criticism be justified or not, of one thing they are certain,
and that is, that in all honesty of purpose and strength of conviction

IV. PREFACE.

they have striven to fulfil a far from easy task. They trust that others
with greater ability will succeed them and do it better. So little atten-
tion has hitherto been paid to the subject in question that it has been
necessary to generalise and draw conclusions almost exclusively from
personal experience. But their motto has been — " Prove all things, hold
fast to that which is good " ; and much that in the beginning and in the
light of comparatively limited experience met with their approval, has,
on closer examination, been rejected or modified.

But, though this hand-book is necessarily the outcome chiefly of
personal observation and experience, the writers have to some extent
been able to avail themselves of the knowledge of others, and to refer to
competent authorities. This applies especially to Chapter II., for the
contents of which frequent reference has been made to the writings of
Karmarsch, Thelaus, and others. The Plates at the end, and most of
the Illustrations in the body of the book, are executed from original draw-
ings made for the purpose.

In order to keep within due limits, much has been omitted which, per-
haps, ought to have been included. Whether or not, on the other hand,
some things have been included which ought to have been omitted, must
in the meantime be left an open question.

The parts taken by the respective authors are as follows : — Chapter I.
has been written by Otto Salomon ; Chapters II., III., and IV., by Carl
Nordendahl, who also undertook all arrangements connected with the
illustrations ; and Chapter V., by Alfred Johansson. Looked at as a
whole, however, this little book is the product of united labour, and it
contains nothing which is not the result of diligent interchange of thought

TRANSLATORS' PREFACE.

THIS Hand-book was written originally for Swedish people, and in ac-
cordance with the conditions which prevail in Swedish schools ; but the
presence of a large body of English teachers at the Autumn Slb'jd Course
at Naas has testified for the last four years to the interest taken in the
subject by English people, and the latest modifications of the English and
Scotch Codes as regards manual training, point to the introduction at no
distant date of systematic instruction in some branch of manual work in
our state-aided schools. It has therefore seemed desirable that this
Hand-book of "Wood Slojd should be translated for English readers with
any modifications necessary to make it suitable for English teachers and
students. These modifications consist partly of the omission of matter
bearing on conditions peculiar to Sweden, and partly of the addition to
the text of certain paragraphs, which seemed necessary from an English
point of view. Nothing has been taken away or added without careful
consultation with Herr Salomon, and without his approval. At the same
time, as any additions to the original text have been made at the suggestion
of the translators, and as they are responsible for them, these paragraphs
have been enclosed in brackets as translators' notes. The whole trans-
lation has been revised under the supervision of Herr Salomon and other
competent judges at Naas, and the translators therefore trust that the
work they have undertaken is a faithful representation of the ~~iews held
and acted on at the headquarters of Educational Slojd.

In giving this book to English readers, they feel, however, that one or
two points of detail call for special explanation, particularly as these
touch on the fundamental principles of educational Slojd, and as any
misunderstanding as to details might lead to a more serious misunder-
standing as to principles. One of these details is the use of the knife in
educational Slojd. In the following pages the use of the knife is often
recommended where the English carpenter would use the chisel, or some
other special tool. The defence of the knife in such cases is to be found
in the fact that, while it is the most familiar and the simplest tool which
can be put into the hands of the pupil, it is full of potentialities in the
hands of the intelligent worker, who can perform with it many exercises
which the tradesman executes in a more mechanical way with some other
tool.

Again, directions are given which differ in other respects from those
which the carpenter would give. The work of the slojder is often done

VI. PREFACE.

not only with different tools, but in a different order from that of the
artisan. This inversion of order is a natural consequence of the principle
that each article shall be executed entirely by the individual worker.
Division of labour, though necessary from the tradesman's point of view,
is not permitted in Slojd, deadening, as it does, individuality, and reducing
to a minimum the calls made on the intelligence.

These and other deviations from the methods of the carpenter are made
not in ignorance, but of set purpose, and have their grounds in the com-
prehensive principle that all method in Slojd must aim in the first
place at the physical and mental development of the pupil, and only at
the production of articles in so far as this subserves the primary aim.

In close connection with this stands the question of the place occupied
in the system by the articles produced, i.e., by the models. Clear as this
question appears in the light of the fundamental principles on which
educational Slojd is based, the idea still seems to prevail to some extent
that, if the principles are accepted, the Niias models must also be accepted
unconditionally, and that the two stand and fall together. So far is this
irom being the case that, at the present time, one series of Naas models is
gradually becoming English in its character, and only waits further sug-
gestions from English teachers to become entirely so. , The sole reason
that it still contains models which do not entirely fulfil the condition of
being familiar and useful in the homes of English children, is that English
people have hitherto been unable to suggest satisfactory substitutes. The
models are merely the expression of the system, and to carry out that
system thoroughly they must be national in their character, and ought,
therefore, to vary in their nature with the countries into which Slojd is
introduced as a subject of instruction.

As this translation, like the original, is the work of more than one
writer, it remains to add that the book has been translated into English
hy Mary R. Walker, with the assistance of AVilliam Nelson on all points
relating to technical knowledge and technical terminology.

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

THIS edition has been carefully revised, and at the suggestion of Teachers
Chapter V. has been entirely re-written, greater detail being given to the de-
scription of each Exercise. In addition to this, Plate VI. has been re-drawn,
and the "Practical Directions for Making the High School Series of Slojd
Models," by Alfred Johansson, of the Nails Seminarium, have been incor-
porated, thus making the book complete from a practical point of view.

These alterations and additions have been approved by Herr Salomon, and
the Translators therefore hope that the Handbook will maintain, in this improved
form, its position as the authorised English Guide to the Practice of Slojd.

Table of Contents.

CHAPTER I.
Introductory Remarks.

PAGE

I. Educational Slojd - 1

II. The Teacher of Educational Slojd 2

III. The special kind of Slojd recommended 6

IV. Method - 9
V. The Pupils - 17

VI. The time given to instruction - IS

VII. The Slojd-room - 18

VIII. The position of the body during work - 21

IX. Some rules for the Slojd Teacher - 24

CHAPTER II.
Wood or Timber.

A. THE STRUCTURE AND COMPOSITION OF WOOD, Wood-
cells, Wood-fibres, Concentric annual layers, Vessels or
Air-tubes, Heart-wood and Sap-wood, the Pith and the
Medullary Rays, the Sup, Water capacity - 27

B. THE CHANGES WHICH WOOD UNDERGOES 35

I. Changes in the water capacity. Shrinking, cracking,

swelling - 36

II. Means of preventing cracking and warping. Season-
ing. Precautions necessary to prevent cracking and
warping under special conditions 40

III. The decay of timber. Means of preventing decay - 43

C. DlKFERENT KINDS OF WOOD 45

I. Comparison of the qualities of different kinds of wood.
The strength, cleavage, hardness, toughness, elasticity,
texture, colour, smell, weight, and durability of
timber 45

II. Characteristics of different kinds of trees - 51

1. Needle-leaved trees. 2. Broad-leaved trees. 52

viii. CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.
Tools.

A. A CHOICE OF TOOLS 59

B. APPLIANCES FOB HOLDING THE WORK - 62

I. The Bench - - 62

II. Handscrews 68

0. SETTING OUT - 70

I. The Metre-measure 70

II. The Marking-point 71

III. The Marking-gauge 71

IV. Compasses - - 73
V. Squares and Bevels. 74

VI. Winding-laths or Straight-edges - 76

D. TOOLS USED FOR CUTTING UP THE WOOD AND MAKING

THE ARTICLES 77

I. Saws 77

1. Saws with Frames - 82
1. The Frame-saw. 2. The Bow-saw - 82

2. Saws without Frames 85
1. The Handsaw. 2. The Dove-tail saw. 3. The

Tenon-saw. 4. The Compass-saw. 5. The

Groove-saw - 85

II. The Axe - - 87

III. The Knife 88

IV. The Draw-knife 89
V. Chisels, Gouges, Carving tools, &c. 89

1. The Firmer-chisel, and the Mortise-chisel 90

2. Gouges 91

3. The Spoon-gouge and the Spoon-iron - 92

4. Carving tools - 92
VI. Planes 93

1. Planes with flat soles : —

1. The Jack-plane. 2. The Trying-plane.

3. The Smoothing-plane. 4. The Rebate-plane 98

2. Planes for the dressing of curved surfaces : —

1. The Round. 2. The Hollow. 3. The Com-
pass-plane - 101

3. The Old Woman's Tooth-plane, and the Dove-tail

Filletster - - - - 102

4. The Plough 104

5. The Iron Spokeshave - 104
VII. Files 105

VIII. Methods of finishing work - 106

1. The Scraper. 2. Sandpaper.

IX. The Brace and Bits. 108

1. The Shell-bit. 2. The Centre-bit.
X. The Mallet, the Hammer, the Hand-vice, Pincers, and

Screwdriver - 112

E. THE GRINDING AND SHARPENING OF TOOLS 115

F. THE TOOL CUPBOARD - 118

CHAPTER IV.

Jointing1.

A. Glueing - 119

B. Nailing 123

C. Screwing together - - 124

D. Jointing by means of the formation of the parts of the joint 125

CHAPTER V.

I. The Exercises 126

Plates illustrating various positions, etc. • 184

II. The High School Series of Models 196

Practical Directions for making the High School Series of

Slojd Models 201

List of tools required for different numbers of pupils - 251

Index - 255

Price List of Tools, Benches, etc. - 267

FIRST CHAPTER.

Introductory Remarks.

Educational Slojd.

By educational slojd is meant the application of slojd to
educational purposes. Slojd is not to be confounded with the
work of the artisan — a mistake which may easily happen if
the distinction is not sufficiently strongly emphasized. Speak-
ing generally, the 'slojder' does not practise his art as a trade,
but merely as a change from some other employment ; and in
the nature of the articles produced, in the tools used in their
production, in the manner of executing the work, etc., slojd
and the work of the artisan differ very decidedly the one
from the other. Slojd is much better adapted to be a means
of education, because purely economical considerations do not
come forward so prominently as must be the case with work
undertaken as a means of livelihood.

Educational slojd differs from so-called practical slojd, in-
asmuch as in the latter, importance is attached to the work; in
the former, on the contrary, to the worker. It must, however,
be strongly emphasized that the two terms, educational and
practical, ought in no way to be considered antagonistic to
each other, as frequently happens in popular language ; for,
from the strictly educational point of view, whatever is educa-
tionally right must also be practical, and vice versa. When
the educational and the practical come into conflict, the cause
is always to be found in the pressure of adventitious circum-
stances, e.g., the number of pupils, the nature of the premises,
and, above all, pecuniary resources, etc. To make educational
theory and practice coincide is an ideal towards which every
teacher must strive. One man, perhaps, may be able to come

2 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

nearer to this common ideal than another, but everyone, as he
runs his course, must have this goal clearly in view, and in
uvery unavoidable compromise he must endeavour to make
what ought to be done and what can be done come as close
together as possible.

What, then, is the aim of educational slojd ? To utilise, as is
' suggested above, the educative force which lies in rightly
directed bodily labour, as a means of developing in the pupils
physical and mental powers which will be a sure and evident
gain to them for life. Views may differ as to what is to be
understood by a " cultured " or an " educated " man, but how-
ever far apart in other respects these views may lie, they all
have at least one thing in common, i.e., that this much dis-
puted culture always appears in its possessors in the form of
certain faculties, and that therefore the development of faculty,
so far as this can be directed for good, must enter into all
educational efforts. This being the case, the influence of slojd
is cultivating and educative, just in the same degree as by its
means certain faculties of true value for life reach a develop-
ment which could not be attained otherwise, or, at least, not
in the same degree. Educational slojd, accordingly, seeks to
work on lines which shall insure, during and by means of the
exercise it affords, the development of the pupil in certain
definite directions. These are of various kinds. As the more
important, it is usual to bring forward : pleasure in bodily
labour, and respect for it, habits of independence, order,
accuracy, attention and industry, increase of physical
strength, development of the power of observation in the eye,
and of execution in the hand. Educational slojd has also
in view the development of mental power, or, in other words,
is disciplinary in its aim.

The Teacher of Educational Slojd.

The quali-

required That no one can teach what he does not know himself is a
proposition the validity of which cannot be called in question.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 3

It is equally incontestable that it is by no means sufficient to
be in possession of a certain amount of knowledge and dex-
terity in order to follow with success the important and
responsible calling of a teacher. Teaching is an art quite as
difficult as any other, and for its practice certain qualifica-
tions are demanded which are far from being in the possession
of all. The teacher must not only know ivhat he has to
communicate, but also how he ought to do it. Nor is this
all ; for if all instruction is in reality to be education, the
teacher must rise from the instructor to the educator; he
must not only understand how to impart knowledge and
dexterity, but also how to impart both in such a manner that
they make for the mental development of the pupil, especially
with regard to moral training. But as we cannot give to
others what we do not ourselves possess, it must necessarily
follow that only he who is himself educated can have an
educative influence over another. Therefore, exactly in pro-
portion to the educative aim of the teacher does his person-
ality enter as an important factor into the work of instruction.
Now, since slojd is to be regarded more as a means of education
than a subject of instruction, in the common acceptation of
the term, the first demand of all made upon the teacher who
undertakes it must be that he should feel himself to be an
educator, and strive without ceasing to improve himself as
such. This, however, is not sufficient. To be a teacher of
educational slojd, it is necessary to be familiar with its aims,
and with the means by which these are to be attained. One
of these means is the possession of what is called technical
dexterity, i.e., dexterity in the right use of tools, and in the
accurate production, by their means, of articles involving the
exercises required by the particular kind of slojd in question.
The importance of this dexterity must neither be over-esti-
mated nor undervalued. Unfortunately one or other of these
errors is frequently committed. On the one hand it is
maintained that if a person can only prove that he possesses Technical
technical dexterity in sufficient degree, i.e., if he himself can dextentv-

4: HANDBOOK OP SLO\TD.

produce good work, he thereby fulfils one of the most impor-
tant requirements of a good slb'jd teacher. From this point of
view the skilful artisan or "Slb'jder" would be the best
teacher of slb'jd, because he can with justice be held to possess
the best technical qualifications. Past experience, however,
has shown that, as a rule, the skilful artisan or " slb'jder " is
not the best person to fill the responsible post of the slojd
teacher. This follows from the very nature of the case. The
artisan has acquired his technical dexterity in a totally different
way, and for a totally different purpose, from what is required
in educational slojd. Technical dexterity is the principal thing
with him. It is before every other consideration a source of
income. In educational slojd, on the other hand, it is to be
regarded only as one means among many whereby the
teacher is able to bring an educative influence to bear on the
The artisan PUP^S- ^"he artisan who has great technical skill is too often
at a teacher tempted while teaching to use this skill in a way which may
ofsisjd. ke £Qr £ne advantage of the work with which the pupil is
occupied, but is certainly not for the advantage of the pupil
himself. His " instruction " consists not infrequently of work
which he does for the pupil, with results which are excellent
from the economical point of view, but which are very
objectionable in their educational aspect. Partly for this
reason and partly because the artisan often does not under-
stand how to maintain really good discipline with children ;
and because, moreover, he is uji acquainted with the general
principles which apply to all instruction, it has been remarked,
that where instruction in slojd is concerned, even a very
capable artisan often falls far behind the results attained by
those who are in his opinion little more than bunglers, and
who may be far inferior to him in technical dexterity. At
the same time, it is by no means intended to convey the idea

that the skilled artisan may not be a good teacher of slojd

provided he understands the difference between slojd and his
trade, and is in possession of the other necessary qualifications
— but it is maintained that in such a case it is less because

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 5

he is an artisan than in spite of it, for the first condition is
that he must renounce the traditions of his craft, and become
penetrated by educational ideas.

But the truth here, as in so many other cases, lies between
the two extremes. It is as hurtful to under-estimate tech-
nical skill as it is to over-estimate it. Therefore, let no
teacher imagine that he can successfully undertake instruc- under-
tion in slqjd With slight and superficial knowledge on the e*f^
purely technical side. It will soon and surely be made clear importance
to him that this is not the case. If he has not himself the %%
necessary technical dexterity for his purpose, it will be
difficult, indeed almost impossible, for him to make clear to
his pupils how they are to handle their tools and execute the
work prescribed. Neither will he be able in an efficient way
to supervise their work and criticise the quality of what they
produce. The feeling of self-mastery which is so essential
for the teacher when he stands face to face with his pupils,
forsakes him, and the educative results which he intends to
attain by means of slojd are diminished in proportion. It is
most important that this should be laid down once for all,
because some teachers possibly imagine that the technical
skill necessary for teaching may be obtained by attending
one or two slojd courses. This is by no means the case, and
the organisers of such slojd courses are the first to understand
and to insist upon the fact, that they can only aim at laying
a foundation on which students may afterwards build by
means of independent work. Just as little as one can learn
to play on any instrument by merely taking lessons for a
given time from a music teacher, can skill in the management
of tools be acquired and maintained without continuous and
earnest practice. The teacher who feels real interest in slojd
must therefore, on his own account, endeavour to improve in
respect of technical skill, and this will prove a two-fold gain,
because the bodily exercise affords a healthy change from the
mental work with which the time of the teacher is chiefly
filled.

6 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

To summarise what has been said in the foregoing: the
teacher of educational slojd must above all things have the
habit of mind which is indispensable for the right perform-
ance of the teacher's work ; his personality must be such as
renders him fit to be a teacher ; he must know the objects of
educational slojd and the means by which they are to be
attained ; and finally, he ought to have sufficient dexterity to
handle the tools and to execute accurately the work which is
incidental to the course of instruction. These are the de-
mands made on him ; may he strive to meet them.

The special kind of Slojd recommended.
Various materials, e.g., wax, clay, paper, pasteboard, wood,
metal, &c., may be used in educational slojd. Wood, however,
is for several reasons the most suitable material ; hence vjood-
slojd has been the most popular of all, both in schools and
for private instruction. As the name implies, wood-slojd
means "slb'jding" in wood. This, again, includes several
different kinds of work. Amongst these, however, it is the
so-called slojd-carpentry which best fulfils the conditions
required when instruction in slojd is given with educational
ends in view. It is adapted to the mental and physical
powers of children. By enabling them to make a number of
generally useful articles, it awakens and sustains genuine
interest. It encourages order and accuracy, and it is com-
patible with cleanliness and tidiness. Further, it cultivates
the sense of form more completely than instruction in drawing
does, and, like gymnastics and free play, it has a good in-
fluence upon the health of the body, and consequently upon
that of the mind. Additional advantages are, that it is
excellently adapted for methodical arrangement, comprising
as it does a great number of exercises of varying degrees of
difficulty, some of which are very easy ; and that it gives a
considerable degree of general dexterity by means of the
many different tools and manual operations which it intro-
duces.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 7

We must not confound slojd-carpentry with the work done
by the carpenter, properly so-called. This is the more neces- Jjjj^r.
sary because great confusion of ideas prevails on the subject ; pentry and
not least, remarkably enough, amongst those who are in-
terested in slojd, or give instruction in it.

It must be borne in mind that although slojd-carpentry
and ordinary carpentry have something in common, inasmuch
as the same raw material (wood) is employed, and to some
extent the same or similar tools are used, yet they differ one
from the other in several very important respects. For
example, the articles made in slojd-carpentry are in many
cases quite different from those which fall within the province
of the carpenter. The articles made in slojd-carpentry are
differentiated partly by their smaller size, for the articles
made in workshops are generally much larger ; partly by
their form, for they are often bounded by variously curved
outlines, whilst articles made by the carpenter are generally
rectangular or cylindrical. This is especially shown in the
case of the many different kinds of spoons, ladles, scoops,
handles, &c., &c., which form such an important element in
slojd-carpentry.

Further, though many tools are common to both kinds of
work, there are also considerable differences in this respect.
Several tools which are seldom or never used in the car-
penter's workshop, e.g., the axe, the draw-knife, and the
spoon-iron, occupy an important place in slojd-carpentry.

The most characteristic tool in slojd-carpentry is, however,
the knife, and by the use of this, his chief instrument, the
slojder may always be distinguished from the carpenter,
whose favourite tool is the chisel, and who, as seldom as pos-
sible, and never willingly, takes the knife in his hand. In
carpentry, on the other hand, use is made of a number of
tools more or less necessary, which are quite unknown to the
slojder, who works for the most part under more primitive
conditions. Distinct differences can also be pointed out in
the manner of executing the work (for while division of

8 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

labour is practised in carpentry, it is not permitted in slb'jd)
and in the manner of using the tools. It AY ill be seen from
the foregoing that much may pass under the name of instruc-
tion in slojd which, properly speaking, ought simply to be
called instruction in carpentry. It is most important that
this distinction should be maintained, because otherwise edu-
cational slojd will by degrees be lost in instruction in car-
pentry as a trade.

In some schools where slojd is taught we find turning and
wood-carving as well as slbjd-carpentry. This, however, is
not so common now as it was a few years ago. People seem
to be coming more and more to the conclusion that both occu-
pations are more suitable for the home than for the school.
Neither of them is to be commended from the hygienic point
of view. As regards turning, the difficulty of procuring
suitable turning-lathes presents in many schools a serious
obstacle to its general use ; whilst the necessity of perform-
ing preliminary exercises, apart from the actual objects made
(a proceeding of very doubtful educational value) places
turning quite in the shade as compared with slbjd-carpentry.
Wood carving, on the other hand, does not involve that
energetic bodily labour which is of such great importance in
connection with educational slojd. Again, wood-carving,
classed as it is with the so-called " finer " kinds of manual
work, has a tendency to intensify in the child that contempt
for rough bodily labour which has already unfortunately
done so much social harm. The danger of this is however
greatest when the children are imprudently permitted to
ornament objects which they have not made. When wood-
carving is used, not as a separate kind of slojd, but in order
to complete slb'jd-carpentry, and when ornamentation is only
allowed after the children are able in a satisfactory way to
execute the articles to be embellished by its means, the dis-
advantages are minimised.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS,

Method.

Systematic action, directed towards an end, is termed The
method. Every form of human activity, in so far as it is meaning of
concerned with the attainment of a definite preconceived end,
must therefore be regulated according to method, and this
universally applicable rule holds good in the case of that
activity which is directed towards instruction and education.
Hence great importance has always been attached to methods
of instruction. In fact, in many cases too much attention
has been paid to the study of special methods. Not that we
agree with those who, by strange confusion of ideas, regard
the rules of scientific method as opposed to practice, saying : —
•" We are practical people, and therefore we mean to teach in
our own practical way, not to follow the theoretical methods
of others." They thereby show that they do not understand
how, in the very nature of things, there can be only one
really practical mode of procedure, and that is the method
which is in harmony with sound theory,and that any other way
of going to work must be more or less unpractical. On the
other hand, it cannot be denied that many teachers misunder-
stand the true significance of method to such a degree that it
becomes the Alpha and Omega of the work. They forget
that, strictly speaking, method is merely a tool — though a very
necessary one — in the hand of the teacher ; and that, just as
little as a tool can execute a piece of work of its own accord,
just so little can method ever be the chief factor in instruc-
tion. The teacher's power to apply method is the determining
factor. A good method in the hands of a truly capable
teacher will always give better results than a bad method.
The best method is of comparatively little value if the teacher
is inefficient.

It will now be clear that slb'jd, whether regarded as a
subject of school instruction in the usual sense, or as a purely
disciplinary subject, must be treated according to rules of

10 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

method. The ordinary rules of method can be applied to it ;
and chief amongst them those which are generally regarded
as fundamental principles, namely, that instruction shall
proceed gradually from the more easy to the more difficult,
from the simple to the complex, and from the known to the
unknown, it being always understood that the starting point
is sufficiently easy, simple, and well-known.

The In drawing up a system of method in slb'jd teaching it is

exercisu. Difficult to find any fully logical principle of arrangement
elsewhere than in the exercises. By exercises in this
connection is to be understood that manipulation of the
materials by means of one tool or more in a definite way,
for a definite object. Now these exercises can be arranged
in a series, in conformity with the rules given above. This
could not be done so easily if the tools themselves constituted
the principle of arrangement, because, e.g., in the case of two
tools, some exercises performed with the one may be easier,
and some on the contrary may be more difficult, than the
exercises which are performed with the other. It is obvious
that the models cannot constitute the principle of arrange-
ment, because they are merely the incidental expressions of
the exercises. When, therefore, it is said that the models in a
series are graded from the more easy to the more difficult, it
is meant that the exercises occurring in these models proceed
hi this way. The exercises themselves are partly simple
partly complex : the latter consisting of two or more simple
exercises in combination. The given number of exercises
entering into the work of special kinds of slojd depends
more or less upon opinion, for it often happens that what is
regarded as one exercise might be analysed into two or more,
or might be considered as a part of a more complex exercise.
Hence the eighty-eight exercises in slojd-carpentry enu-
merated further on, might easily be increased or decreased in
number, depending entirely upon how far it is considered
advisable to carry this analysis or synthesis.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 11

The exercises, their number, their names, and their order Method of
are not, however, the only factors which determine method ««"*&*
in slojd. The way in which they should be taught must be exercises.
included. There are different modes of procedure. One of
these is to teach the exercises one after the other, simply as
isolated or " abstract " exercises, until they have all been per-
formed. This may be justified from the point of view of
method in general, but opinions may differ, not to put it too
strongly, as to its educational soundness. Another mode of
procedure is to apply each exercise, after it has been practised
separately or in the abstract, in the construction of a given
object or model. The exercises themselves are thus given as
preliminary practice. This, though certainly a step in the
right direction, does not fully satisfy the demands of educa.
tional method, which requires us to proceed from the con-
crete to the abstract, and not vice versa ; and, moreover, such
unnecessarily round-about methods cause the loss of valuable
time which might be better employed. Method in slojd only
becomes educationally sound when the pupil, by constructing
objects which can be used in everyday life, acquires dexterity
in performing the exercises as they occur. To take an illus-
tration from language teaching, the first mode of procedure
corresponds to the learning of abstractions in the form of
grammatical rules ; the second corresponds to the application
of these rules in sentences after they have been learned ; the
third corresponds to the method by which the pupil is led up,
through sentences or combinations of sentences, to the laws
of language which in them find expression.

There are, however, other fundamental principles which Arrange-
must be adhered to in arranging a series of models in such a J^^a
way that the exercises involved shall follow each other in models.
methodical order. The general nature of the models and the
manner in which the exercises ought to be introduced in them
must be considered. In choosing a series of models the best
plan is undoubtedly to consider local conditions, and endeavour
to make it exactly representative of articles which can be

12 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

used in the homes of the pupils. By this means interest in
the instruction given is better aroused and maintained, not
only in the pupils, but— and this is quite as important— in the
parents, and thus the bond between the school and the home
is strengthened.* Opinion is now probably almost unanimous
that all articles of luxury should be excluded. (Such articles,
however, are by no means synonymous with articles intrinsi-
cally beautiful.) The interest of the pupils is also heightened
if the first articles presented to them are no larger or more
difficult than can be executed satisfactorily in a comparatively
short time. The first models ought, on this account, to include
few exercises ; and it may be laid down as a general rule that,
as far as possible, each successive model should include only
one new exercise, or two at the most. In the arrangement
of the series, attention must also be paid to alternation in the
form of the models. The articles which are included in slojd-
carpentry consist partly of " modelled " articles bounded by
curved surfaces, and partly of rectangular articles bounded
principally by plane surfaces. It is very important that any
arrangement of models in a series should present good alter-
nation between these two kinds, and, generally speaking, a
modelled object should follow a rectangular object, and vice
versa. As a result, each model acquires to some extent the

* As some confusion of ideas appears to prevail in England between the
importance of the educational principles on which slojd is based, and the
models in which these principles are exemplified, it seems desirable to draw the
attention of readers to this passage. It indicates sufficiently clearly that, in
•whatever country Swedish slojd may be adopted, the more familiar and the
more serviceable the articles made are to the inhabitants of that country, the
more nearly will the method of teaching conform to one of the great principles
of educational slojd, viz. : that the pupil's interest shall be excited and sustained
by the making of articles which he himself or the other members of his
family can use. Many of the models at Nails have, within the last year or two,
been either modified or changed entirely in order to render them suitable for
English students, and it is incumbent upon every slojd teacher to make his own
series of models conform to the ideas and requirements of the people among
whom he teaches, keeping in view the general principles of method which would
apply to any series.— TBS.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 13

charm of novelty, and this still further increases in the pupils
that interest for their work which is of the very greatest
importance as regards the educational benefits to be derived
from slb'jd.

The manner in which the details and finished appearance intuitional
of the objects he is to execute are made clear to the pupil, ^ure
must be included within the province of method. It is instruction.
assumed that in this, as in all other instruction, it is of the
highest importance that the teacher strives to make his
teaching as intuitional as possible. To this end, in the
elementary stages, the models should always be executed
after drawings and models, and in the first instance invariably
after models which are placed before the pupils for accurate
imitation.

As, however, it has been proved to be difficult, in many
cases indeed almost impossible, to preserve even a well-exe-
cuted wooden model in its original shape and size, and as, for
other reasons, it is highly advantageous to connect instruction
in slb'jd with instruction in drawing, the model should be
copied to as great an extent as possible by the aid of geo-
metrical constructions, sufficiently simple to require in the
pupil only a slight acquaintance with geometrical drawing.
In addition to this the most important measurements of the
model's dimensions should be given, in order that the pupil
may make use of his rule or metre-measure.* By degrees
drawings in perspective and projections may be introduced
as patterns together with the model; and finally, when the
pupil has reached the highest stage, and has attained suffi-
cient dexterity in slojd and in the interpretation of a drawing,
the model may even be taken away, and the work executed

* Two Editions of the "Niias Slojd Diagrams" on cards have been pub-
lished by George Philip & Son. One set has metric measurements, and the
other English measurements, so that either the metric or the English rule can
be used in the Classes.

14 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

after a drawing only. This may be regarded as the final
aim in elementary instruction in slojd.

•<»one« ^ *s an essential condition of any method of instruction

in educational slojd, that the work of the pupils shall be
independently and accurately executed, for only thus can
habits of self-reliance, order, and accuracy, so important in
the formation of character, be developed. In order that self-
reliance may be developed, the teacher must guard himself
against giving more help than is absolutely necessary, whether
this help consists in explaining the best way of doing the work,
or in doing the work instead of the pupil. As regards the
latter, the teacher will do well to lay down, as a general rule,
that he never should touch the pupil's work, for only by this
means can he avoid the temptation, to which unfortunately
many teachers have succumbed, to execute the most important
parts of the work instead of the pupil. At the same time he
must remember that it is also hurtful to the pupil, and that
it deprives his instruction of considerable educational value,
if by unnecessary explanations he hinders the pupil from
using his own judgment to discover the right way. The
teacher's art in educational slojd consists essentially in being
as passive and unobtrusive as possible, while the pupil is
actively exercising both head and hand. Only in this way
can the feeling of self-reliance arise and gain strength.
Let the teacher content himself with pointing out the way,
and watching that the pupil walks in it. Let him as much
as possible refrain from leading where this is unnecessary
and, it may be, hurtful.

Accuracy. In order to develop the habit of accuracy in the pupil by
means of slojd, it is essential that he should make his
model as nearly as possible an exact likeness of his pattern,
or — when the model has changed in shape and size — an
exact copy of what it ought to be, as indicated by the
geometrical construction, or complete drawing and given
measurements. We very often hear people say that it is
quite unnecessary to be so particular with the work, since,

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 15

e.g., a flower-stick can be quite as serviceable whether it is a
little shorter or a little longer. This is perfectly true on the
assumption that the making of a serviceable flower-stick is
our chief end in making it. In educational slb'jd, however,
the principal object is not the article made, but the mental
and physical benefits which accrue to the pupil by means of
the work. In this case it cannot be unimportant that he
should be exercised in the endeavour to execute something
as well and as accurately as he is able to do it. For in this
way his natural disposition to work carelessly is checked,
while at the same time the degree of accuracy to which he is
gradually accustomed will be of great advantage farther on
in the series of models, when he has to perform such opera-
tions as mortising, grooving, dovetailing, &c., which call for
no inconsiderable degree of accuracy in their performance.
Though a pen-holder need not be of any exact size, this is by
no means the case with the joints in dovetailing; and in
making the former exact, the latter operation is rendered pos-
sible, or at all events easier. At the same time, we must not
demand of the pupil work which is absolutely correct in all its
details, for this clearly lies beyond his powers. The teacher
must exercise his " tact " as an educator in determining the
degree of accuracy which is to be demanded of every separate
pupil in every separate model, and this being done, the teacher
must unhesitatingly reject the articles which fail to come up
to the required standard. But in order that the pupil may
not be disheartened by repeated rejections, it is advisable not
to insist on the repetition of the same model more than, at
the outside, three consecutive times. If the pupil fails to
succeed the third time, he should be allowed to pass on to
the next model, and not required to return to the one he
failed to make, until he has succeeded in making the other ;
this he usually does easily enough, owing to the increased
facility he has gained by practice. If the pupil is permitted
to pass over a model altogether without bringing it up to
the required standard, it may encourage him in caprice, and

16 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

counteract the development of habits of perseverance, the
acquisition of which is of such great importance in life.
Further, the general rule should be strictly observed that
every article is to be executed as well and as beautifully as
possible. In educational slbjd it is much more important
that what is made should be the product of good and
conscientious labour, than that much should be produced.
Therefore, whatever bears the impress of carelessness and
haste must be rejected without mercy, lest the pupil fall into
bad habits, and the educative influences of slojd be weakened.
The question whether individual instruction or class-
teaching should be adopted, comes also under the head of
teaching, method in slojd-teaching. As the aim in educational slbjd
is totally different from mere mechanical instruction in the
art of using tools and making articles, it m&y be laid down
as a principle, that only in the degree in which the personal
influence of the teacher reaches each individual pupil, can
his influence be truly educative. And as human beings
differ greatly from one another in natural disposition and
other respects, instruction, in order to reach the highest
degree of educative value, must be specially adapted to each
individual. It is as easy to explain, point out, lead, and
help too much as too little, and thus to check that mental
development which can only be secured by systematic well-
balanced effort. This is, and this will continue to be, the
disadvantage of class-teaching: — this term being assumed
to mean, instruction during which all the pupils taking part
in the lesson have their attention directed at the same time
to the same part of the subject. This disadvantage can
never be lost sight of, but in the case of several subjects of
instruction, especially the purely intellectual subjects, it is
counterbalanced to some degree, because, by means of class-
teaching, the practical benefit is gained that a teacher can
teach a larger number of pupils than he could teach individ-
ually. Slojd, however, does not belong to these subjects,,
because in it the teacher's powers are limited, to start with,.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 17

by the number of pupils he can efficiently supervise at work ;
and it can speedily be demonstrated that he cannot, in class
teaching, supervise more than by individual instruction,
provided that in each case equally good results are aimed at.
On the contrary, he may find that he cannot supervise so
many. Another practical objection to class-teaching in cases
where slojd is applied to educational purposes, is the impos-
sibility of keeping the class together in the execution of their
work. It follows either that the more backward pupils
scamp their work or are allowed to pass over some of the
models in the series, or else that the superior pupils are
checked in their progress, and thereby prevented from doing
as many exercises as they otherwise could have accomplished.*
The leading question of method in educational slojd
teaching ought to be less how much, or how many, as hoiu
weU.

The Pupils.

The age during which instruction can be received with ad- Theageof
vantage in any subject whatever is limited downwards as well thepupat.
as upwards by the work it involves. As regards slojd -car-
pentry, children ought to have attained the degree of develop-
ment which corresponds roughly to 10 or 11 years. Other-
wise they cannot be expected to meet the demands made on
the spirit of self-reliance during work. At the same time, as
children of the same age differ greatly in point of development,
our guiding principle should not be the date of birth, but the
mental and physical powers which the child has at command.
What one child of nine years can accomplish with ease may be
beyond the powers of another child of twelve. As regards
the upward limit of age, it lies considerably beyond school

* On certain occasions it is advantageous to demand the attention of all the
pupils at one time, e.g., when the teacher wishes to explain the properties of a
tool and the method of using it, or wishes to examine all the pupils together.
These, however, are special cases, which ought to be quite independent of the
slojd- work itself, being in no sense class-teaching of Slojd, but class-teaching
of the use of tools.

B

18 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

The number of pupils who can be managed individually
}-,y one teacher at the same time varies considerably, and is
influenced partly by the teacher's general efficiency, partly
by his special efficiency, and partly by the stage at which
the pupils are. The teacher who is unaccustomed to teach
slojd will probably be unable at first to manage with ease
more than from 6 to 8 pupils, especially if they are beginners ;
later on the number may be increased to 12, and by degrees,
under favourable conditions, to 15, 18, or at most 20.* No
teacher, however, ought to let his desire to increase the
number of his pupils induce him to take more at one time
than he can manage in a thoroughly satisfactory way.

The Time given to Instruction.

The length ^ slojd lesson ought not to last less than an hour and a half,

tributtonof or more than two hours and a half. It ought, if possible, to

the lessons, intervene between hours devoted to intellectual instruction,

because it offers a wholesome variety for mind and body.

Slojd by artificial light should be avoided as much as possible.

It is desirable that every pupil should receive three lessons

a week. They should be given every other day, and if the

pupils have gymnastics on the intervening days, it will secure,

to some extent at least, the necessary physical exercise on a

rational basis.

The Slojd-room.

aZs^hlZi ^Q ^ays are Past' *n Sweden at least, when it was regarded

room/or as a degradation of the rooms devoted to intellectual instruc-

•***• tion to use them for slojd teaching. Since "practical" slojd

has been forced to make way for educational slojd, and the

importance of the latter has been more and more recognised,

no thoughtful teacher can think that his class-room loses

dignity because manual labour is carried on in it. In many

schools where space is limited, slojd must, at first at least, be

* This has been proved by observations made in the elementary schools in
Stockholm.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

given a share of the school-room. Where this room is large
enough, and where the slbjd-teacher's spirit of order is suffi-
ciently strong to make him keep his department always tidy,
this combination may be made without special inconvenience.
It is advisable to place the slbjd-benches and the tool-cup-
board at one end of the room. The removal of desks to
make temporary room for benches should only be permitted
when such an arrangement is unavoidable.

The use of the school-room for the double purpose of in-
tellectual work and slbjd is not, however, to be recommended
when circumstances permit of separate rooms being fitted up.
Different arrangements are required for the two branches of
instruction. A description of the general arrangement re-
quired in a room devoted to the purposes of educational
slqjd carpentry follows. This description is based on ex-
perience gained in the teaching of slojd up to the present
time. It must, however, be borne in mind in this connection,
that the conditions in an elementary school in the country
and in a school in a large town or in closely-populated manu-
facturing districts, vary according to circumstances.

As regards the former, we must, as a general rule, be less The sisjA-

exacting in our demands ; in the latter, on the contrary. room in

ordinary
arrangements may be made which shall meet fully the educa- country

tional requirements of a good slbjd-room. In an ordinary schools-
elementary school in the country, where there may not be
more than from eight to twelve pupils requiring instruction
at the same time, a slbjd-room measuring 1C ft. in length,
13 ft. in breadth, and 10 ft. in height, will be large enough.
It should be situated on the ground-floor. The walls should
be wainscotted, and the room should contain three or four
double, or six or eight single, benches ; cupboards for tools,
models, and finished articles ; a grindstone, a chopping-block,
and, if turnery is included in the course, also a turning-lathe.
If the room is kept locked between lessons, the tools may be
disposed round the walls instead of being kept in a cupboard.
The wood required should be stored in some place adjoining.

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

The siojd- In a large school, where opportunity is given for making
toriT" the arrangements for slojd teaching as complete as possible,
tehooit. the following directions may be found useful : —

Situation. — The slojd-room (not " work -shop ") should
open from a lobby either on the ground-floor or on the top
storey. It should never be situated in the basement. If it
is on the ground floor, care should be taken that it is as far
as possible from the other school-rooms, that the noise may
not disturb the pupils in the latter. If a slojd-room is situ-
ated above a school-room, it should be furnished with a double
floor, with an intervening layer of sawdust to deaden the
noise.

Area. — To accommodate 20 pupils at one time, the room
should be about 50 ft. long and 23 ft. broad. This will give
adequate space for 20 separate benches (placed in 5 rows), a
turning lathe, a saw-bench, grindstones, chopping-blocks,
cupboards for tools, models, and finished articles, and a rack
for wood. Wood ought not to be suspended from the roof if
this can be avoided, partly because it is unsightly, and partly
because it gives unnecessary trouble. The space between the
benches ought to be about 2£ ft.

Height. — The slojd-room ought to be from 12 ft. to 15 ft.
high.

Windoivs. — The slojd-room should be well-lighted by large
and properly placed windows. The area of window surface
is generally reckoned as 25 to 30 per cent, of the floor area. If
the slojd-room is on the ground floor, windows should, if pos-
sible, be placed in three of its walls. If it is on the top
storey it is better to let the light enter by sky-lights than
dormer windows.

The Walls. — To prevent injury to the walls they should be
lined with wood, or at all events with a tolerably high wains-
cotting. The doors and the window-frames should be painted,
but the walls need only be varnished.

Warming. — Where there is no central system of heating.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 21

the best way to heat the slojd-room in winter is by two large
stoves. The temperature ought not to be higher than from
54° to 57° F. The glue should be melted on a small stove
heated by gas or oil.

Artificial light. — As work is done in the slojd room on
winter afternoons, arrangements must be made for artificial
light. This light, whether furnished by gas or by electricity,
must always come from above, in order that 110 shadows may
be cast on the work.

The Position of the Body during- Work.

If slojd is to contribute towards physical development —
a point on which most people are now tolerably unanimous —
methodical and effectual arrangements must be made to this
end.

It can easily be demonstrated that of all kinds of sloid, slffJdand

. gymnastic!

slb'jd-carpentry in conjunction with gymnastics is the best 'should go
adapted for physical training, but it is equally clear that this ^^ *n
can only be the case, provided that the positions assumed and
the motions prescribed are well-selected. As regards this we
have to find the happy medium. On the one hand it cannot
be denied that many of the so-called " instinctive " positions
assumed by artisans and " slojders " have reference more to
what is advantageous for the work than for the worker. On
the other hand it must be granted that though slojd ought to
be considered as " applied gymnastics," this principle should
not be carried out so pedantically that the idea of work is
lost sight of. Slojd is essentially work, and not merely Sl<yd**
gymnastic exercises with tools as apparatus ; and all that we merely
are justified in aiming at is, that when we have a choice 9y»ina*tic
between positions and movements favourable to physical
development and those which are unfavourable, we must
adopt the former. We may rest assured that, in the long
run, not only the worker but the work will gain thereby.
Harmonious or all-round physical development is mate-

22 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

uniform rially advanced when the muscles of both sides are equally
*tkemu*det exercised during work. This is a fundamental rule in gym-
ofboth nasties. It is equally binding in slojd whenever it is capable
of application. The objection we sometimes hear that the
left hand has not the same strength and steadiness as the
right, depends on a confusion between cause and effect,
because this inferiority in most cases is caused by the fact
that at an early age the left hand in the matter of exercise
is neglected for the right. It is, moreover, easy to enumerate
a great number of operations in which both hands execute
almost the same work. As examples may be given : sowing
seed, kneading dough, weaving, hewing wood, driving, rowing,
playing on the piano, &c. In slojd -carpentry the saiv, the
plane, the centre-bit, and the file may, in particular, be
directed alternately by the right and by the left hand, and
the change should be made by all the pupils together, at the
command of the teacher, about every half hour. On the other
hand, the use of the axe or the knife by the left hand is not
to be recommended until great experience in the use of the
left has been gained, on account of the greater danger of
injury should the tool accidentally slip aside.

Petitions The following general rules may be given for the positions
and movements in educational sloid-carpentry.

movements J r J

Position of the chest. — The chest encloses the important
vital organs, the heart and the lungs, the former of which
regulates the circulation of the blood, and the latter the
process of respiration. That these may freely and without
hindrance perform their functions, the space in which they
move must not be diminished. It must rather be enlarged.
We must therefore endeavour to prevent any narrowing of
the chest, and attention should always be directed to keeping
the shoulders well back during work, in order that the chest
may be expanded. Inspiration and expiration should take
place quietly, without any effort whatever.

The head should be held as erect as possible, to avoid un-

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 23

necessary loss of muscular power, to permit greater freedom
of circulation, and to preserve the eyesight from injury during
work. When the head is bent forwards the veins in some
situations are compressed, in others extended ; in both cases
their calibre is diminished. In connection with the effect the
position of the head may have upon the circulation, the
importance of loose clothing should be noticed. Tightly
fitting collars and neckties should be above all avoided. To
preserve the sight, work should not be held nearer the eye
than about 12 in. : for this reason it is very advantageous in
educational slojd to use exclusively benches whose construc-
tion permits of their being raised to different heights. Thus
the work may always be held at the proper distance from the
eye, while the position of the head is, from the hygienic point
of view, most advantageous.

The feet should be so placed as to afford the best and firmest
support during work. In the execution of every exercise a
certain mechanical resistance has to be overcome. For this
purpose muscular strength, and in certain circumstances the
weight of the body, must be called into play. This resistance
must be regarded as force opposing the worker in a certain
direction, and he must allow his body to assume the state of
equilibrium most favourable in relation to the direction of the
force. This is done as regards the feet, when the line of most
resistance is in front of the worker, by placing the one foot
right in front of the other ; and when the resistance is from
the side, by placing the feet apart sideways, in the direction
of the shoulders. In both cases the feet form the chief sup-
port of the equilibrium of the body. The angle formed by
the foot in front with the foot behind, may vary from 60° to
90° in planing, and from 45° to 60° in sawing. The position
with the feet astride may also be assumed in cutting with the
knife, in perpendicular chiselling, and perpendicular boring.

The position and movements of the body. — The worker
should assume a position, in relation to his work, which
enables the muscles of his arms to have free play in the most
favourable direction for its execution, i.e., in a direction

24 HANDBOOK OF SL(5JD.

opposed to the line of resistance, or friction between the tool
and the piece of wood. In certain exercises, such as planing
and boring, this friction is, to some extent, increased by the
necessary bending of the body over the tool, whereby the
weight of the bcdy helps to press it against the wood. In
using some tools, e.g., the saw, this weight may also act as a
kind of regulator, by gently setting the. body in motion back-
wards and forwards. The reader is referred to Plates I.- VIII.
for illustrations of some of the most important positions.*

Some Rules for the Slojd Teacher.

Order an In all teaching, and not least in slb'jd teaching, the main-
rn^wpww- tenance of order must be laid down as an indispensable
«mdi«<m. condition. The following simple directions may serve for

guidance to the teacher.

The pupils' Every pupil should have a fixed place at a bench. When
|^* ° circumstances permit, it is advisable to have at disposal as
many benches (or when benches intended for two are used,
half as many benches) as there are pupils taking part simul-
taneously in a lesson.

Humbert The benches and tools should be furnished with numbers,
benches so that they can easily be distinguished from one another.
and tools. The following tools should, if possible, belong to each bench,
and be marked with its number : knife, trying-plane, smooth-
ing-plane, jack-plane, square, marking-gauge, compasses, rule
or metre measure, and scraper, t Other tools may serve the
whole class in common.

fixed All tools should have fixed places. Those belonging to the

£^* for bench may be allowed to lie upon it until the close of the

lesson, but all tools in common use should be laid by or hung

up immediately after use, in order that they may be easily

found.

The teacher must take care that all the edge tools in use are

* These plates are specially intended to illustrate the position of body which
the worker should assume when beginning the particular exercise indicated. A
new series of 16 large plates, " Positions of the Body," has lately been pub-
lished at Naas.

t Those constitute the bench-set.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 25

well sharpened, and that any tool which gets out of order, or The
is broken, is repaired as soon as possible. If practicable, the *^
pupils should do their own repairs. repairing

At the beginning of the lesson the pupils should, in an °
orderly way, get out their tools and work. The latter, if
begun in a previous lesson, should be kept in boxes specially
provided for the purpose, and should be marked with the
pupils' names.

In order to teach and superintend in the full meaning of Teaeher
these terms, the teacher must not stand still in one place. Ln^
He must go from one pupil to another with advice and criti- work-
cism. The pupils, on the contrary, must, as far as possible,
remain at their benches. If they desire any advice from the
teacher, they must not attract his attention by calling out,
but by some signal, e.g., holding up one hand, standing in
front of the bench and looking towards him, etc. All un-
necessary talking must be carefully avoided.

The pupil himself, guided by the teacher, must select selection
suitable wood. Waste must be avoided as far as possible. of****.

The pupil must not be allowed to polish with sand-paper sand-
until the teacher has examined the work and found thatpaper-
sufficient use has been made of cutting tools. The sand-paper
is to be kept by the teacher and given out by him as required.
About G sq. in. is calculated for each model. The calculation
is founded on the supposition that though the models become
larger as the course proceeds, the greater facility of the pupil
diminishes in about the same degree his need of sand-paper.

At the end of the lesson all the tools should be put back />„«.>-;
in their places, care being taken that all the saws are loosened. the *^''
The tools should be counted by the " captain," or monitor, order.
appointed for the class, after which the teacher sees that
everything is in its right place. The wood and the pieces of
work are put away tidily. The benches are brushed and
made clean with a brush which should hang by the side of
each bench, and the floor is swept. The shavings, however,
need not be carried away oftener than once or twice a week.

26 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

When the finished pieces of work have been " passed " by
the teacher, a label should be stuck on, and on this label
should be stated the number of the model and its name, the
name and age of the pupil, and the number of hours spent in
making it. If it is considered desirable to give every piece
of work a value, this also may be mentioned on the label.
rainng the Although from the educational point of view it is advisable

work home

that the pupils should at once take home tneir work, it is
generally for other reasons more expedient that it should
remain in the school in the care of the teacher until it can
be exhibited publicly at an examination or terminal break -
ing-up. After this has taken place, the articles are to be re-
garded as the property of the makers. The sale of work
for the benefit of the school should never be thought of.

A very good plan is to allow the pupils to take home their
work as soon as it is finished, in order to show it to their
parents, on the understanding that, after they have seen it,
it is brought back to the school, to be kept there as long as
necessary.

Daybook. The teacher should enter in a day-book, arranged for the
purpose, careful notes regarding the pupils taking part in the
slojd lessons, their presence and absence from lessons, the
articles they make, etc., etc.

27

CHAPTER II.
Wood, or Timber.

The material generally used in slqjd-teaching, and most
suitable for the purpose, is icood or timber.

Intelligent knowledge of the material used is as essential
to the teacher as acquaintance with the tools required. He
ought, e.g., to be familiar with the qualities which render
different kinds of wood more or less appropriate for different
purposes. Accordingly the description of the tools given
in Chapter III. is here preceded by a brief account of the
growth of trees ; of the most important properties of wood,
and the principal changes which it undergoes; and by a
comparison of the technical qualities of the various kinds of
wood in common use.

A. The Structure and Composition of Wood.

Wood or timber forms the. greater part of the stems and
branches of trees and shrubs.

To examine the inner structure of a tree-stem, a section A tret.stm
may be made at right angles to the direction of its length, *B lection'
i.e., a transverse or cross section; or from the pith to the
bark in the line of one of the radii and parallel to the direc-
tion of the length, i.e., a radial section ; or a third section
may be made at right angles to both the preceding as a
tangent to the circumference, i.e., a tangential section.

28

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

On examining
the cross-section
of a stem we find
an outer ring, the
bark, consisting of
a corky layer, the
outer bark, and
the inner bark or
bast; next comes
the wood, consti-
tuting the chief
portion of the Fis j Thrce sections o{ a trec.stenij at right
stem, and in the angles to one another.

ppntrnl r>ar-f io o T- cross section, K. radial section, Tg. tangential section.

Central part IS a Jf. medulla or pith, B. Bark, C. Cambium, ao. Concentric
/»ana1 -filial TTT*4-V> annual lavers, mm. Medullary rays, ab. thickness of medullary
Canal, failed With rayS) cj. £eight of medullary rays, «• vessels.

soft cellular tissue called the pith or medulla. Between the
wood and the bast lies a narrow, light-coloured ring, the
Cambium. This consists of a layer of embryonic cells, from
which are developed on the one side wood, and on the other
bast, and it is here that the growth of the tree takes place.

The Cambium forms the soft, moist, spongy mass which
may be seen under the bark in spring when the sap begins
to rise. It consists of microscopic cells, some of which are
long, prismatic, and pointed at the ends, while others are
shorter and have ends which terminate abruptly. The inner
bark and wood are developed chiefly from the long cells, the
medullary rays from the short ones.

Wood Cells.
The forma- The young cells from which wood is developed have at

which nourishes the growing tree, and which circulates with
ease from one thin walled cell to another, and thus permeates
the whole of the tissue. Gradually the walls of the cells
become thicker ; the cell contents solidify ; the sap flows less

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 29

and less freely ; the whole tissue assumes the characteristics
of wood, and ceases to take part in the circulation and assimi-
lation of the sap.

The cellular tissue consists chiefly of cellulose, the chemical
constituents of which are carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen.

Wood Fibres.

The cells from which wood is developed are principally
the long-pointed cells. They lie close together and overlap
one another at the ends, thus forming minute tubes or fibres.
The zone of wood in any stem consists of these fibres massed
together, and extending in the direction of the length of the
stem. The connection between separate fibres is often very
slight, as is shown by the ease with which they may be
separated.

In trees of regular growth the fibres are straight and
parallel. Wood of this kind is called " straight fibred." It
is easily split. This is not the case with wood in which
the fibres are crooked, or twisted about one another, as in
gnarled or mis-shapen trees. The fibres in the root, the lower
part of the stem, knotty branches and rough excrescences
are always crooked, and sometimes they are twisted and
involved in the most remarkable way. This gives rise to the
peculiar speckled and veined appearance which is so highly
prized in some kinds of wood.

The bast also consists of fibres, but they are longer and
usually tougher than wood-fibres.

Concentric Annual Layers.

A new layer of bast and a new layer of wood are formed
annually. This new formation goes on rapidly in spring and
early summer, when vital activity in the tree is at its height.
The cells are then large, and the wood formed from them, i.e.?
spring wood, is soft and loose in texture and light in colour.
After the tree has budded the formation of wood goes on for

30

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

annual
layert-

a time, but less actively. The cells diminish in size and in
diameter, and are more closely packed together. The wood
formed at this period — autumn wood — is generally darker in
colour and closer in texture than spring wood. There are
fewer vessels (see p. 31 ) in autumn wood ; in spring wood, on
the contrary, they are numerous and quite visible as pores.
« In consequence of the characteristics of autumn wood, the
boundary line between two periods of vegetation is clearly
defined, and it is easy to distinguish the concentric annual
layers which mark each yearly increase in growth.

These layers are most sharply defined in needle-leaved trees
and in some broad-leaved trees, e.g., the oak, the ash, and the
elm.* They are less conspicuous in the birch, the aspen, the
alder, etc., and in some cases it is even difficult to distinguish
them at all. As a new layer of wood is formed every year,
the age of a tree may be determined by the number of layers.

In the tropics, where vegetation goes on during almost the
entire year without any well-marked period of rest, the con-
centric annual layers disappear entirely.

The breadth of the concentric layers varies in different
trees. In some cases they are more than 1 inch broad, in
others scarcely -^ inch. Their breadth may vary even in
the same stem, depending on the more or less favourable
weather of successive seasons. The layers
on the side exposed to the south are often
broader than those on the north. In old
needle-leaved trees we usually find very nar-
row layers nearest the pith; beyond these
the layers widen for the greater portion of
the stem, and then contract once more until
the outermost ones are often so narrow that
they can with difficulty be distinguished by
the naked eye. See Fig. 2.

* The terms needle-leaved trees and broad-leaved trees used throughout this
book may be taken as practically synonymous with Conifers and Dicotyledonous
trees.— TRS.

ig. 2. — Showing
mannerof growth
in needle - leaved
trees.

WOOD, OR TIMBER.

31

Narrow annual layers betoken good wood in needle-leaved ciose and
trees ; but the opposite holds good in the case of broad-leaved loose timbfr'
trees with large pores, e.g., the oak, the ash, and the elm.
Here broad annual layers are characteristic of a good quality
of wood, because the pores which render the wood open in
the grain occur chiefly in that portion of the layer which is
formed in early spring, and are less numerous in the closer
tissue of the autumn wood. See Fig. 3.

Fig. 3.

Fir.

Narrow layers. Broad layers,

hard resinous loose fibred

timber. timber.

Oak.

Narrow layers, Broad layers,
loose fibred hard timber,
porous timber.

Vessels or Air-tubes.

When a cross-section of a stem is carefully examined a
number of minute holes or pores are seen. These are the
mouths of vessels or air-tubes, which penetrate the whole
substance of the wood, parallel with the fibres. Their func-
tion is to enable the air to circulate in the stem, and they The porous-
are found even in wood of the closest grain, rendering it nestofwood*
porous. Vessels are most numerous in the wood formed
early in spring, and very few are found in autumn wood, a
circumstance which helps to make the annual layers more
distinct. According to the size of these vessels wood is said
to loefine or coarse-grained.

Each kind of tree has something peculiar to itself in the
manner of distribution, the number, and the size of its
vessels. They are most marked in the oak, the ash, and the
elm, giving to the wood of these trees, when seen in vertical

gO HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

section, its striped or streaked appearance. In a number of
trees on the other hand, e.g., the birch, the vessels are hardly
visible, and they are distributed pretty equally over the con-
centric annual layers, making it difficult to distinguish
consecutive layers.

Needle-leaved trees have no air vessels, but have channels
Ruin. filled with resin, i.e., resin-canals. These occur chiefly in
the autumn wood, to which they give a darker colour.

Heart-wood and Sap-wood.

In many kinds of trees, when the stem is sawn across, a
considerable difference may be observed between the appear-
ance of the inner and older, and the outer and younger
concentric annual layers. The inner layers are usually
firmer and closer in texture and darker in colour than the
outer, which are less compact, lighter in colour, and full of
sap.

The neart- The firmer, darker wood is called heart-wood or duramen ;

™£^we *ke looser, lighter wood, sap-wood or alburnum. As a rule

part of the the latter forms a comparatively narrow ring round the

former, which constitutes the greater portion of the stem,

and which, when sound, is the valuable portion on account

of its firmer texture and greater durability.

The proportion which the heart-wood bears to the sap-
wood varies in different kinds of trees. For example, in the
case of broad-leaved trees, the proportion is largest in the
oak, the ash, and the elm ; least in the birch, the maple, the
alder, the hornbeam, etc. In needle-leaved trees, it is greatest
in the larch and the fir ; least in the pine. The resin in these
trees is found chiefly in the heart- wood. It greatly increases
its closeness and durability, and darkens its colour.

The most striking example of the difference in appearance
between heart-wood and sap-wood is presented by ebony, in
which the former is black and the latter white.

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 33

The Pith and the Medullary Rays.

The pith forms a column in the central part of the stem,
and the medullary rays radiate from the pith towards the
bark.

The pith is looser in texture, and is composed of shorter
cells than the wood. The shape and size of the column vary
considerably in different trees. In some, e.g., the yew, it is
very thin ; in others, e.g., the elder, it occupies a considerable
space. -

The medullary rays or " transverse septa " are composed of
flat cellular tissue, which forms thin vertical plates radiating
towards the bark. During the first year of the growth of
the tree, these rays originate in the pith, divide the patches
of wood and bast, and reach as far as the bark. In sub-
sequent years they are formed in connection with the new
wood, not with the pith, and they extend into the bark.
The medullary rays are the medium by which the pith and
the wood are brought into communication with the baric.
They also divide the wood into wedge-shaped bundles. They
are seldom so straight and regularly disposed as is represented
in the diagram (Fig. 1), but are generally more or less curved,
and they often branch out obliquely. They vary considerably Different
both in number and appearance in different trees, and thus, kinds of
like the vessels, they serve as a guide to the recognition of by the
different kinds of wood. For example, oak is easily known character
by the smoothness and glossiness of its broad medullary rays medullary
when these are seen in radial section. This gives to oak rays-
timber the beautiful figured appearance called " silver grain."
The beech has also long, broad medullary rays. The maple
is distinguished by the fineness and number of its medullary
rays.

In the greater number of loose-fibred, broad-leaved trees,
the rays are very narrow, and scarcely distinguishable by the

34 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

naked eye. This is also the case with needle-leaved trees,
the rays of which are extremely numerous.

The cleavage The medullary rays affect to a considerable extent the ease
of wood. Qr Difficulty -with which wood may be split. As a general
rule, timber is easily split if it has broad rays like the oak
and the beech, or if the rays, though numerous, are straight
and narrow like those of the fir and the pine. Other circum-
stances, however, may determine the greater or less resistance
which any given timber presents to cleavage.

The Sap.

Next to the wood the sap is the most important element in
timber. Its chief constituent is water, which holds in solution
various organic and inorganic substances, but its composition
undergoes changes in the course of circulation through the
different parts of the tree.

The sap materials are absorbed by the roots, and as crude,
or ascending sap, are carried by the still active cells of the
sap-wood to the leaves. Here, through the influence of light
and air, the crude sap is changed and made fit for the nourish-
ment and growth of the tree, and is called elaborated sap.
From the leaves it descends in the bast tubes to the cambium,
where the new wood and bast are formed.

The organic Amongst the organic substances which the sap holds in
solution may be named, starch, sugar, colouring matter,
tannic acid, and albuminoids. The latter render it very liable
to fermentation, and when this takes place the wood decays.
This is the reason why timber, felled when the sap is circu-
lating, and allowed to lie unbarked, readily becomes " sour."
It also explains why sap-wood decays more quickly than
heart-wood.

When wood is burnt the inorganic constituents remain in
the ashes.

Sap also contains substances which are not required for
the growth of the tree, but which occupy space and channels

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 35

in the wood. Amongst these substances are the volatile oils,
which are found chiefly in needle-leaved trees, and of which
turpentine is the most important. The resin or gum found Turpentine,
in needle-leaved trees is also formed from these oils. Tannic
acid is found in a great many trees, especially in the bark. acid-
It is known by its acrid taste, and it abounds chiefly in the
oak, the fir, and the alder. When fresh timber in which
there is a great deal of tannic acid is split or sawn, the acid
makes the polished edge of the tool become blue-black in
colour.

The destructive effect of the albuminoids of the sap is
counteracted by the turpentine, resin, and tannic acid.

Water Capacity.

The sap, as stated above, consists chiefly of water ; and, as
it circulates in the sap-wood, it follows that the latter con-
tains more water than the heart- wood, and more in spring
than in the height of summer. As a general rule the water
contained in unseasoned wood is about 40 to 50 per cent, of
the weight of the wood. In unseasoned ash and beech it is
20 to 30 per cent. ; in loose-grained oak, hornbeam, maple,
elm, Scotch fi^ and spruce fir, 30 to 40 per cent. ; in the looser
fibred trees in which sap abounds, e.g., the alder, the lime,
the willow, and the aspen, 40 to 50 per cent.

The presence of water has generally a hurtful effect upon
timber, as is shown in what follows.

B. The Changes which Wood
undergoes.

The changes to which wood is subject are partly mechanical
in their nature, consisting of alterations in the water capacity,
and consequent alterations in shape ; partly chemical, caused
chiefly by the decomposition of the sap, which finally leads
to the decay of the wood.

36 HANDBOOK OP SLOYD.

I. Changes in the Water Capacity, and the changes in
form which are thereby produced.

Newly felled timber contains, as has been said, a large pro-
" portion of water — sometimes as much as 50 per cent, of its own
weight. After lying for some time in a dry and airy place,
it loses about half its amount of water by evaporation.
Sawn or split wood, dried for a year or two under cover,
still retains 10 to 15 per cent, of water, and only by con-
tinuous application of heat, or drying in an oven, can the
water in timber be completely expelled.

chanya in During the process of drying, timber decreases in volume
of timber, or shrinks. If exposed again to moisture it increases in volume
or s^uells.

If any given piece of timber were uniform in texture
throughout, and if no obstacles in any direction were pre-
sented to its expansion, the only result of shrinking or swell-
ing would be alteration in volume ; there would be no change
in form. This, however, is seldom the case. Generally
speaking, the texture of the wood varies in different parts
of the same piece. Again, it is often used under conditions
which do not permit it to shrink or swell freely in all direc-
tions ; consequently, it shrinks or swells more in one place
than in another.

When one part of a piece of timber shrinks more rapidly
than an adjacent part, the wood cracks. If, on the other
hand, one part swells more than another, or if the adjacent
part meets with some obstacle to its expansion, the timber
changes in shape — it becomes warped.

shrinkage The shrinkage of timber stands in close connection with the

direction*. am°unt of water contained. The more water it gives off

while drying, the more it shrinks. Similarly the warmer and

drier the air in which it is placed, the greater the shrinkage.

Some kinds of wood shrink more than others, and the

same kind of wood shrinks differently in different directions.

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 37

All wood shrinks least in the direction of the fibres' length,
and generally so very little that the difference need not be
taken into consideration. But the difference caused by
shrinking is very great across the fibres, and in tangential
section it is two or three times greater than in radial section,
or in the plane of the medullary rays. The sap-wood, which
contains more water than the heart-wood, always shrinks
more than the latter.

The following table, taken from " Karmarsch's Technology,"
shows the results of experiments made on a number of trees,
to ascertain to what extent their timber shrinks. It must be
observed that (1) the experiments were made with thin pieces
of wood ; (2) that the figures are understood to represent the
difference between wood which is either quite green or satu-
rated with water, and that which has been thoroughly well
seasoned ; and that, therefore, (3) the shrinking of partially
seasoned wood is considerably less than is stated in the table.
(The same applies of course to the swelling of such wood,
when it is again exposed to moisture.)

The last column gives the average degree of shrinkage
across the fibres.

38

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

Shrinkage of Timber.

Degree of Shrinkage.

Across the fibres in

the dire<

•tion of —

Name of tree.

In length.
Per cent.

The
medullary
rays.

Per cent.

The
annual
layers.

Per cent.

Average
across the
fibres.

Per cent.

The common alder

0369

°91

5 07

399

The elm
The apple
The common ash (young)
The common birch
The common beech
The hornbeam
Ebony

0.1-J4
0.109
0.821
0.222
0.200
0.400
0010

2.94
3.00
4.05
3.S6
5.03
6.66
2.13

6.22
7-39
6.56
9.30
8.06
10.90
4 07

4.58
5.19
5.30
6.58
6.54
8.78

The oak (young)

0400

3.90

7 55

- -O

The oak (old)

0 130

3.13

7 78

The Scotch fir
The spruce fir
The lime

0.120
0.076
0 °OS

3-04
2.41
779

5.72

6.18

4.3S
4.29

The common larch
The maple

0.075
0 07^

2.17
335

6.32
6 '59

4.24

Mahogany

1 09

i 70

Lignum vitae

0 fi25

5 18

7 50

The pear

394

1° 7^

The rowan

0 1QO

2 11

8*88

The common walnut

0.223

3.53

6-25

4-89

General As is seen from the above table, the degree of shrinkage in

result* the direction of the length of the wood is so slight that it

afforded by

the aboce may be left entirely out of consideration. In the direction
of the breadth, however, it varies from 2 per cent, to 9 per
cent. In radial section, the general average is 5 per cent. ; for
fir and pine 3 per cent. ; for birch 4 per cent. In tangential
section, where shrinkage is greatest, it varies from 2 per cent,
to 13 per cent., the general average for wood iii common use
being 7 per cent. ; for fir and pine 6 per cent. ; for birch 9
per cent.

WOOD, OR TIMBER.

When a tree stem is
sawn up into planks by
parallel longitudinal cuts,
« the planks shrink as is
* shown in Fig. 4. The

broadest portion shown,
which includes the pith,
1 shrinks least in breadth,

4. Shrinkage in planks. most in thickness ; least

nearest the pith, most near the sides. The outermost plank,
however, shrinks most in breadth — in the direction of the
annual layers — and least in thickness. The planks lying
between shrink differently on different sides, and become
concave to the pith, and convex on the other side.

Of trees in most general use, beech, lime, hornbeam, and
pear shrink most ; birch, apple, white-beam, walnut, ash, and
oak shrink considerably ; alder, maple, Scotch fir, elm, spruce
fir, and larch shrink in a medium degree. Mahogany shrinks
least of all timbers.

Cracks occur in timber, because, as indicated above, it is
seldom uniform in texture, and it is therefore liable to shrink
in different degrees during seasoning. The parts nearest the
sap-wood shrink more rapidly than the heart-wood, and
cracks, which run almost invariably in the direction of the
medullary rays, are the result. The more rapidly wood dries
the more it cracks, consequently timber should always be
dried very slowly to prevent the formation of cracks. If it is
tolerably uniform in texture, it may, with proper treatment,
be kept entirely free from cracks.

The swelling, or expansion of timber, takes place when it
is exposed to damp air or water, and is in direct relation to
its shrinkage. When a piece of dried wood is immersed in
water, it swells until it occupies the same volume as it occu-
pied in its fresh condition, after which no further expansion
takes place. Its amount of water, however, and consequently

40 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

its weight, are greater than in its fresh condition, because
the vessels originally filled with air are now filled with
water.

The warping of timber depends on differences in the nature
of its texture, and on other circumstances which cause changes
in form both when it shrinks and when it swells. For ex-
ample, a plank will become twisted or curved if one side
only is exposed to the sun without being turned. Thin, flat
pieces of wood become convex or concave, according as one
or other side is exposed to damp or to drying influences.

II. Means of preventing- Cracks and Warping.

The means taken to kepp timber as far as possible from
cracking or warping during the process of seasoning, are very
various. They are partly connected with the treatment of
the wood when it is cut up into timber, and partly with its
treatment for any special purpose.

1. Seasoning.

when wood Trees should be felled when the sap is down or at rest,
cut down. The best time is from the the middle of December to the end
of February. Too much stress cannot be laid upon the im-
portance of felling timber at the right time, for if felled at
the wrong season, it will contain too much sap, which will
make it very difficult to dry, render it much more liable to
swell or shrink, and increase the risk of its becoming worm-
eaten. In the case of needle-leaved trees excess of sap gives
a bluish tinge to the surface of the timber.

wood The more slowly timber is dried the less it cracks, and

dried timber felled at the proper season and allowed to dry slowly

slowly. cracks very little. Barked timber, which dries more quickly

than unbarked, often cracks so widely that it is quite unfit

for slb'jd-work. When the bark is left on, the cracks may be

numerous, but they will be small. Thick pieces crack more

than thin pieces ; logs or round wood more than split wood ;

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 41

sap-wood more than heart-wood. Care should be taken dur-
ing seasoning that the air has free access to the wood on all
sides. Wood which has been split with the axe is apt to
crack at the ends ; this may be prevented by pasting paper
over them. Portions of timber containing the pith and the
adjacent annual layers, always crack ; such pieces are there-
fore unavailable for work. When round timber is split in
order to facilitate seasoning, it should be divided through
the pith.

Boards or planks are best dried in a drying shed, where
fresh air can circulate freely round each piece. The best ^°l",-^°'
way is to place the boards on their edges, with sufficient by expomre
space between, taking care that they are not twisted in any to the air'
way. If they are piled one on the other, pieces of dry wood
should be placed between them, in order to separate them.
For obvious reasons, none of the timber should touch the
ground.

Timber which has been felled at the proper time, takes no
harm from exposure to a little rain in spring and early sum-
mer, provided always that the air has free access, so that it
may dry again quickly. Indeed, timber usually dries very
rapidly out in the open air in early summer. The rain helps
to wash out the sap, and the timber is thereby rendered
more durable when thoroughly dried.

When wholly or partially finished planks are laid by for
future use, care must be taken that they do not lie one close
upon the other, but that both sides are fully exposed to the
air, to facilitate further drying and prevent warping.

In the early stages of seasoning, evaporation goes on with
tolerable rapidity, but afterwards it takes place more slowly,
and timber must be kept in a dry and airy place for two or
three years before it can be considered fully seasoned. Tim- **« «£
ber is said to be seasoned when the quantity of moisture it said to be
contains coincides with that contained in the atmosphere.

As has been said above, the amount of water in timber

42 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

seasoned as indicated, never falls below 10 per cent, of its
weight. To decrease the water still further, it is necessary
to dry the timber in ovens constructed for the purpose,
or in heated air, or else to keep it for a long time in a warm
place.

influence of Drying expels water only, not the essential elements of the
the tap on s&^ some of which part with great difficulty from water, and
also take it up again with great readiness when the timber is
once more exposed to moisture. These properties of the sap
make seasoning much more difficult than it would otherwise
be, and retard the process considerably in wood which abounds
in sap — e.g., beech, birch, oak, and walnut.

Removal of To overcome this difficulty, the sap may either be removed
the tap. altogether, or its action may be neutralised. The first is
accomplished by immersing the wood in cold water for some
time, or in boiling water for a shorter time ; or, what is still
better, by steaming it. In the second case the timber is
impregnated with substances calculated to counteract the
destructive effects of the sap — e.g., a solution of common salt,
vitriol, chloride of zinc, etc. These methods can, however,
only be mentioned here incidentally, as any detailed descrip-
tion would be entirely beyond the limits of this work.

2. Precautions necessary to prevent Warping and
Cracking under special conditions.

As shrinkage is greater in tangential than in radial section,
the wood for any special purpose ought to be sawn out or split
in the direction of the radii of the stem, in order that the
article may the better preserve its form and size. There are,
however, some practical difficulties which render it impossible
to carry out this principle in all cases.

jointing Uniformity of texture, and consequently less tendency to
d-ack or warp, is more easily secured in small pieces of timber
than in large pieces, and consequently it is usual in the con-
struction of articles to employ smaller pieces of wood than

of

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 43

are required, and to joint them together ; and these pieces
may often, without any disadvantage, be chosen from different
kinds of wood, and may have their fibres running in different
directions. Hence it is better in making a broad plane sur-
face to select planks which have been divided in two, than
to make it of whole planks. Planks containing the heart-
wood nearest the pith which is generally cracked, are always
divided in two to get rid of this portion.

Jointing also permits large plane surfaces to shrink with- Frames «*»«*
out injury to parts of the work already completed. For
example, blackboards, the panels of doors, etc., which are set
into a groove in a frame, are thus permitted to shrink with-
out cracking. Table-tops are strengthened by blocks which
fit into a groove in the framing, and are glued to the under
part of the top. Broad pieces of wood are furnished on one
side with clamps, the fibres of which run at right angles to
those of the broad piece, and which are inserted in such a
way that the wood of the broad piece can shrink without
hindrance.

III. The Decay of Timber.

After vital action ceases in a tree, its substance, like that
of other organic bodies, undergoes a process of decomposition,
which sooner or later terminates in the total decay of the
wood. Decay takes place very rapidly if the timber is ex-
posed to alternations of moisture, air, and heat.

The wood fibres themselves have a high degree of durability,
especially if the sap, which is the prime cause of decay, has
been removed. Some of the constituents of the sap, e.g., starch
and sugar, neither hasten decay nor retard it, while others,
e.g., tannic acid and resin, counteract it. It is the albuminoids
which are the cause of decomposition, and the sap-wood in
which they abound is the part which decays most rapidly.

The decay of timber is caused, in the first instance, by the Blue sur-
fermentation of the sap, which in this state soon acts in-/aw-
juriously on the wood-fibres. The first sign of this is a

44 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

bluish tinge on the surface of the wood. Timber which has
assumed this bluish tinge is not only less durable and strong,
but it is also extremely difficult to work. Though the fer-
menting elements dry in the wood cells, they do not therefore
lose their power. They remain dormant merely, and the
application of moisture after the lapse of time is sufficient to
wake them into activity. Hence, timber which is exposed
to alternations of heat and moisture may very soon acquire
a "blue surface," especially if kept where ventilation is
deficient.

Dry rot- If the process of decay goes on further, fungi almost always

make their appearance. One of the most destructive forms
in which they appear is known as " dry rot."

ofiruectt. Timber is also destroyed by insects or worms, which bore
their way through the wood, and often reduce the inner
portion completely to dust before any signs of destruction
appear on the outside. Wood which is rich in sap, e.g., birch
and alder, is most liable to such attacks ; beech is less liable ;
while the elm, the maple, and resinous needle-leaved trees,
are seldom attacked.

Means of Preventing Decay.

As the decomposition of the sap is the real cause of the
decay of wood, the means taken to prevent decay are directed
either towards the retardation of this decomposition or to
the complete expulsion of the sap, e.g. :

1. — The timber is cut down during the season of the

year when there is least sap in the stem.
2. — The timber is seasoned as thoroughly as possible, in
circumstances which permit free access and circula-
tion of air, and is protected not only during season-
ing but afterwards, from alternations of moisture
and dryness.

The growth of fungus is prevented by exposure
to light, and continuous and uniform ventilation.

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 45

3. — The wood, after it has been made into articles, is

preserved from damp by varnish, oil paint, etc.
4. — The sap is got rid of by steeping the timber in
water or steaming it in ovens.

It is to be observed, however, that in this way the
constituents of the sap which contribute to the
durability of the wood, i.e., resin and tannic acid,
are also removed.

5. The timber is impregnated with some substance in
solution which neutralises the effects of the sap.

The two last named processes are not used for
slb'jd timber.

In conclusion, it may be added that when the sap is re-
moved entirely, or when the timber is impregnated with
some neutralising substance, it does not become worm-eaten.
When insects attack wood which has not been treated in one
of these ways, it is almost impossible to extirpate them. It
has been recommended to apply an acid, e.g.. mvriatic acid,
or a solution of camphor to the worm-eaten holes; but this is,
generally speaking, not practicable, and it is, moreover, not a
complete cure.

C. Different kinds of Wood.

I. Comparison of the Qualities of different kinds
of Wood.

The chief qualities of timber are: — strength, the ease or
difficulty with which it is split, hardness, toughness, elasticity,
texture, colour and smell, weight, durability, and its capacity
for shrinking and siuelling. The two last mentioned quali-
ties have already been taken up.

It is obvious that most of these qualities depend not only
on the kind of tree from which the timber is obtained, but
also on many incidental circumstances, such as climate and
soil, the age of the tree, the season of the year when it was

46 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

cut down, subsequent treatment, etc. It is therefore hardly
possible to make any general statements regarding them
which shall hold good in all cases.

1. The strength of timber is shown by its power of
resistance to pressure, rupture, tearing, and twisting.

The oak and the Scotch fir present the greatest resist-
ance to pressure. The oak, the ash, the spruce fir, and next
after them the Scotch fir, the larch, and the aspen, resist
rupture best. In this respect the beech and the alder are not
so strong. The oak and the ash, and after them the beech,
the spruce fir, the Scotch fir, and the elm, present the greatest
resistance to tearing.

2. The ease or difficulty with which different kinds of
wood may be split. By this is meant the greater or lesser
ease with which timber may be divided by a wedge-shaped
tool in the direction of the length of the fibres. It is closely
related to the quality of the fibres and the manner of their
distribution. Wood which has grown quickly has long
straight fibres, is free from knots, and is easily split. " Cross-
grained " wood, the fibres of which twist and cross each other,
and the wood of roots and of branches with knotty excres-
cences, is difficult to split. Wood from the lower part of the
trunk nearest the roots is the most difficult of all to split.

When the medullary rays are large and long as in beech
and oak, or numerous and fine as in needle-leaved trees,
timber is easily split in radial section, but all timber is
harder to split in tangential than in radial section.

The following timbers are difficult to split : — figured birch,
hornbeam, elm, maple, and white-beam.

The following are easy to split: — ash, beech, alder, oak,
aspen, Scotch fir, spruce fir, lime, poplar, and chestnut.

Old knotty oak, however, may present great difficulty.

3. The density or hardness of timber is shown in the
resistance it offers to the tools with which it is worked. It
is impossible to give definite statistics on this point, because

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 47

it depends so much on circumstances, e.g., the varieties of
texture in the same tree, the nature and arrangement of the
fibres, the degree of moisture, the presence of resin, etc., etc. :
the general rule, however, holds good, that close-grained
timber with high specific gravity is hard (it being under-
stood that comparisons are always made with seasoned wood).
Seasoned timber is harder than green timber. Green heart-
wood is harder than sap-wood. Resinous heart-wood is very
hard, and this is also true of timber which has fine annual
layers, as is shown especially in the extremely hard resinous
knots often seen in planks.

The resistance which timber presents to the axe is greatest
at right angles to the length of the fibres, and it decreases in to
proportion as the angle becomes more acute. It is least when saw.
the blade of the axe is parallel with the direction of the
fibres' length, as in splitting.

The saw, on the other hand, works by tearing the fibres,
and consequently it meets with most resistance in loose-
textured timber with long tough fibres. Such timber makes
the edge of the saw uneven. In close-grained timber with
short fibres the saw works easily, and the edge keeps more
even. Consequently, for heavy close-grained timber the saw
does not require to be set so much. In certain kinds of
timber moisture increases the toughness of the fibres, and on
this account unseasoned timber is more difficult to saw than
dry wood.

The hardness of timber is very important in all cases
where it is exposed to blows, concussions, and general wear
and tear.

For ordinary purposes the hardness of any piece of wood
may be tested by cutting it with a knife.

The hardest timbers of all are lignum vitse and ebony.
The ordinary kinds of timber may be classified as follows :
Hard : hornbeam, maple, apple, pear, oak, and beech.
Medium: ash, elm, white-beam, walnut, birch, lime, and
chestnut.

to the axe
id the

4S HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

Soft : Scotch fir, spruce fir, larch, alder, aspen, and poplar.
As has, however, been indicated above, spruce fir with fine
annual layers and resinous Scotch fir are often very hard, and
they might thus find a place in the higher class.

4. The toughness and elasticity of timber. A piece
of timber which may be bent without breaking, and which
does not resume its former shape when the bending force is
removed, is said to be tough; if it does resume its former
shape, it is said to be elastic. Generally speaking, both these
qualities co-exist in all timber, but one is usually more pre-
dominant than the other, according to the kind of wood.
Thus some timbers are said to be elastic and others tough.

Unseasoned wood is tougher than dry wood, and what it
gains in elasticity during seasoning it loses in toughness.
Damp heat increases toughness ; hence hoops and sticks are
'• steamed " in order that they may be bent.

As a general rule light timber is tougher than heavy
timber, roots are tougher than stems ; sap-wood is tougher
than heart- wood, and young timber is tougher than old.

The toughest timbers are the following : — hornbeam, elm,
ash, aspen, birch, juniper, hazel, osier, maple, and white-beam.

Lime, alder, beech, and the heart- wood of oak are only
moderately tough.

Elasticity is increased by seasoning, and is generally great
in heavy timbers. It is of great importance in the manufac-
ture of many articles, e.g., masts, oars, wooden springs, the
handles of spades, axes, hammers, etc.

The following timbers are elastic: elm, ash, aspen, oak,
spruce fir, birch, maple, and poplar.

Hornbeam, alder, and Scotch fir are less elastic.

5. The texture, colour and smell of timber. Knowledge
of these qualities is very important in connection with the
recognition of different kinds of timber, and in estimating
their value.

AVOOD, OB TIMBER. 49

By texture is understood the way in which the vessels,
fibres, medullary rays and annual layers are woven or con-
nected together. (See fig. 1).

Wood as it appears in cross section is said to be end way
of the grain ; as it appears in radial and tangentia1 section —
parallel with the fibres — it is said to be length way of the
grain, OP with the grain ; and as it appears when we look
across the fibres at right angles to their length, it is said to be
across the grain.

We distinguish between coarse and fine texture according coarse and
to the quality of the fibres, vessels, medullary rays and •/In* texture
annual layers, which, taken all together, give to wood its
characteristic appearance. Similarly we speak of long-Jibred
and of short-fibred texture, according as the wood " works "
with long or short shavings.

The colour of wood varies from white to deep black, with Different
manyintermediate shades of yellow, red,brown, etc., depending
on the kind of tree. It varies not only in different kinds of
timber, but in the same kind of timber, and even in the same
tree. As has been said above, the heart-wood is always
darker than the sap-wood. Certain kinds of timber, again,
e.g., oak and mahogany, become darker with time.

Our ordinary timbers are whitish, yellowish, brownish or
reddish, and are not so highly coloured as tropical timbers,
some of which are very striking in colour.

The smell peculiar to many kinds of timber is a mark by
which they may sometimes be recognised. This characteristic °fwood Jue
smell does not proceed from the wood itself, for it has none.
It is due to the sap, and is always strongest in fresh sappy
wood ; though seasoned timber sometimes has a very decided
smell, which is often quite unlike that of the unseasoned
wood. Needle-leaved trees have a strong smell of turpentine,
and certain broad-leaved trees, e.g., the oak, often smell of
tannic acid. Many trees have an agreeable smell, e.g., the
cedar, juniper, the camphor-tree, etc. The smell of some

colours of
wood.

50

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

Specific
gravity of
the cellular

tissue.

timber remains in it for a long time, and communicates itself
to food kept in vessels made of it.

A musty smell in timber is a sign of decay.

6. The weight or specific gravity of timber is very
variable, depending as it does on a number of different cir-
stances. Hence it is impossible to give such definite
statistics under this head as can be given in the case of
metals and many other substances. We have to take into
consideration the closeness or the looseness of the fibres,
which determines the hardness or density of the wood ; the
presence of more or less sap ; the climate and soil in which
the tree has grown ; its age ; its different parts ; the degree
of seasoning, etc.

The specific gravity of wood properly so called, i.e., of the
cellular tissue which composes it, is very similar in all
timbers, and even in the lightest kinds it is greater than that
of water. Nevertheless, most timbers, owing to their porous
nature, are lighter than water, and float in it. This is the
case with all our indigenous trees after seasoning. A warm
climate produces heavy timber ; and the heaviest timbers,
such as ebony and lignum vitae, are found in the tropics.

The presence of water is the circumstance which most affects
the weight of timber. All timbers are heavier when newly
felled than after seasoning. Hence, in determining the
specific gravity of different kinds of timber, we must assume
that the timber is fully seasoned.

The average specific gravity of the most common kinds of
timber is given as follows by competent authorities : —

NEWLY
FELLED.

SEAS-
ONED.

NEWLY
FELLED.

SEAS-
ONED.

The Hornbeam ... 1.08

0.72

The Spruce Fir ... 0.73

0.47

The Common Alder 0.82

0.53

The Lime 0.74

0.45

The Elm 0.95

0.69

The Common Larch 0.76

0.62

The Apple ... 1.10
The Common Ash 0.92

0.75
0.75

The Maple 0.90
The White-beam ... 1.04

0.66
0.86

The Aspen ... 0.80

0.49

The Pear 1.01

0.72

The Birch ... 0.94

0.64

The Rowan 0.96

0.67

The Common Beech 1.01

0.74

The Common Walnut 0.91

0.68

The Oak 1.10

0.86

Ebony —

1.20

The Com. Juniper 1.07

0.61

Mahogany —

0.81

The Scotch Fir ... 0.70

0.52

Lignum vitse ... —

1.40

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 51

The absolute weight per cubic foot in any given timber is
ascertained by multiplying the specific gravity given above
by G2.5 -the number of pounds iu a cubic foot of water.

7. The durability of timber. This and the circumstances
which favour if have been touched on in connection with
the sap, with seasoning, with decay, and the means of its
prevention.

The conditions under which timber is used have the
greatest influence on its durability. Thus, timber which
is kept under cover and protected from moisture is very
durable, and may last for many centuries. Some kinds of
timber are extremely durable if kept under water. Thus, The dur<*-
the oak used in ancient lake-dwellings and bridges, or found
in bogs, has been preserved for thousands of years.

If timber is exposed to alternations of moisture and dry- when mo
ness, its durability is diminished ; and yet, in most cases, it ^ulalu.
is precisely in these unfavourable conditions it has to be used.

Hence it follows that it is impossible to give precise The. most
details regarding the durability of timber. Under this head
all that can be done is to mention the trees which in all
circumstances give the most durable timbers, viz. : the oak,
and resinous, close-grained Scotch fir and larch. The elm
comes next to these. If exposed to alternations of moisture
and dryness, oak is said to last one hundred years, birch
fifteen years, and beech not more than ten. Durability is
also mentioned in the description of different kinds of
timber, which follows.

II. Characteristics of different kinds of trees.

Here follows an enumeration of the different kinds of
wood which are available for slb'jd work, together with a
condensed statement of their properties, in order that, as far
as is possible in a brief description, the reader may be made
acquainted with each kind of timber.

[The following kinds of wood can be easily obtained in

52 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

England, and are therefore specially recommended : — Scotch
fir, spruce fir, alder, birch, beech, oak, chestnut, lime, and
poplar. See also p. 254. — TRS.]

1. Needle-leaved Trees.

The Scotch fir (Pinus sylvestris). — The ripe timber is
yellowish white or reddish white. The boundaries of the
annual concentric layers are light brown in the heart-wood ;
white in the sap-wood. It is the heaviest, hardest, and most
resinous of all the needle-leaved trees, and has a tolerably
strong smell of turpentine. Its resinous, fine-grained heart-
wood is very durable.

The spruce fir (Pinus dbies). — The wood is yellowish
white. In a longitudinal section it shows dark reddish
streaks. It is very elastic, and is easily split with the axe.
As it contains a good deal of resin, it resists damp ; though,
being less resinous than the pine, it is more easily glued.
Like the pine, it makes excellent timber. Very hard knots,
which loosen and fall out when the wood is seasoned, are,
however, of frequent occurrence in this wood.

The common larch (Pinus larix). — The wood of this tree
is reddish, with dark annual layers and white sap-wood.
It warps but little, and does not readily become worm-eaten.
It is more durable than the Scotch fir and the spruce fir.

The common juniper (Juniperus communis). — The wood
of the young bushes is white, and it deepens from yellow to
brown as it increases in age. It is hard, tough, close, strong,
and durable, and whenever it can be obtained large enough
it is much in request for slojd articles. The juniper has a
peculiar and agreeable smell.

2. Broad-Leaved Trees.

The hornbeam (Cai^pinus betulus). — The wood of this
tree is white, very hard, heavy, close and very tough. The
medullary rays are very little darker than the wood, and are
not easily distinguished. They are curved, appearing in a

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 53

longitudinal section like narrow inconspicuous flecks. The
wood is very difficult to split. It dries slowly and warps
easily. It is very durable if kept dry, and is a favourite
timber for slojd work.

The common alder (Alnusglutinosa).— The wood is whit-
ish or brownish-yellow, often deepening to brown, and in
the newly-felled tree light red. The annual layers are diffi-
yult to recognise; the medullary rays are rather broad, and
brown in colour. The timber is only of medium hardness,
and is neither very tough nor very elastic ; it splits readily,
and does not crack or warp easily. It is very durable if con-
stantly kept wet, but it is of low durability if exposed to
alternations in the degree of moisture. If felled at the wrong
time it is speedily attacked by worms. Its close and even
texture make it good timber for slojd work.

The hoary-leaved alder (Alnus incana) furnishes timber
which is whiter, finer, and closer than the preceding.

The elm (Dlmus montana, U. campestris). — The colour of
the young wood in general, and of the sap-wood in older trees,
is whitish-yellow. The old heart-wood is reddish-brown,
streaked and veined. The inner boundary of the annual
layers is somewhat lighter in colour and looser in texture
than the rest, and has visible pores. The medullary rays are
very narrow and numerous, giving to this timber in longi-
tudinal section a dotted and streaked appearance. This
timber is moderately fine in fibre, tough, hard, given to warp,
difficult to split, and not liable to the attacks of worms. Its
durability under all circumstances is very great. It is often
beautifully marked.

The common ash (Fraxinus excelsior). — The colour of
the young wood is white ; of the older, yellowish brown,
deepening almost to brown in the heart-wood. The medul-
lary rays are not easily distinguished. The annual layers are
generally broad, and, as in the case of the oak, the large pores
on their inner edge render them very conspicuous. This

54 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

timber is tough, elastic, very hard, easily split, not liable to
crack, and, if kept in a dry atmosphere, extremely durable.
If exposed to the open air it is of low durability. It is much
esteemed for its strength and toughness, and is used with
advantage for springs of all kinds, tool handles, etc., etc.
The young wood is used for barrel-hoops, etc.

The aspen (Populus tremula). — The wood is white, with
coarse annual rings. It is fine in texture ; tough, easily
split, and warps but little. It is very durable if kept under
cover or in the ground. It is not of much use in slojd work,
and in Sweden it is used chiefly in the manufacture of
matches.

[The poplar (Populus). — The colour of the wood is a yellow
or brownish white. The annual rings are a little darker on
one side than on the other, and are therefore distinct. The
texture is uniform, and there are no large medullary rays.
The wood is light, soft, easily worked, and does not splinter.
When kept dry it is tolerably durable, and it is not liable to
shrink.— TRS.]

The common birch (Betula alba). — The wood of the
young tree is white. Older wood is reddish white in colour.
The medullary rays are very narrow and scarcely distinguish-
able. The timber is tolerably hard, and very tough ; it dries
very slowly, and swells easily. It is very durable if kept dr}-,
but is of low durability if exposed to the open air, and is very
apt to become worm-eaten.

The quality of birch varies very much, and depends greatly
on climate and soil. Birch grown in favourable soil is
straight in fibre, easily split and easily worked: — Birch
grown in dry and stony ground or in marshy places is crook-
ed in fibre and more or less knotty, gnarled and cross-
grained, and difficult to split. Timber of this kind is beauti-
fully marked. In most parts of Sweden birch furnishes the
greater proportion of the wood used in slojd, and takes the

WOOD, OR TIMBER, 55

place of the beech and the hornbeam of southern Sweden and
southern countries.

The common beech (Fagus sylvatica). — The wood in the
young tree is light brown ; old wood is very dark. The
medullary rays are large, glossy, and dark brown, and the
general colour of the wood is uniform. The concentric annual
layers are not specially conspicuous, but they are easily
distinguished. Beech timber is hard, close, heavy, and easily
split, especially in the direction of the medullary rays. It is
inelastic and rather brittle. It dries very slowly, and warps
easily.. It is very durable under water and when kept dry,
but if exposed to varying degrees of moisture it is the least
durable of all timbers. It is highly valued for its hardness,
and much used for barrels.

The oak (Quercus robur). — The sap-wood and the wood in
young stems is nearly white. The heart-wood in older trees
is brownish. The large pores on the inner edges of the annual
layers, and the broad, yellowish brown, frequently glossy,
medullary rays are specially noticeable. This timber is
peculiarly hard, strong, and durable. It is not affected by
alternations in the degree of moisture, and it is in all cir-
cumstances the most durable of all our timbers. It dries
slowly, and is very apt to warp unless thoroughly well
seasoned. After being in water — especially salt water — for
many years, its colour becomes bluish black. The oak fur-
nishes better timber than any other tree of Northern Europe.

[The chestnut (Oastanea vesca).—The colour of the sap-
wood is yellowish white ; that of the heart-wood is light to
dark brown. The wood of the chestnut resembles that of
the oak in colour, but it may easily be distinguished from it
by the absence of the broad medullary rays which are found
in the oak. The timber is heavy, hard, elastic, and very
durable if kept uniformly either dry or wet. If subjected
to variations in the degree of moisture it is of low durability.
— Tns.1

56 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

The maple (Acer platanoides). — The wood is white, with
very narrow and numerous medullary rays of a faint brown
colour, which give it a beautifully " waved " lustrous appear-
ance. The annual layers are inconspicuous. The wood is
uniform in texture, hard, strong, tough, and difficult to split ;
it presents a glossy surface to the plane, and does not crack
or warp readily. In consequence of these good qualities, it is
much sought after for slqjd timber.

The white-beam (Sorbus Scandica). — The wood of the
young tree is yellowish. Older wood is light brown or red-
dish in colour. It is frequently speckled or veined. This
timber is fine and uniform in texture, hard, close, and very
tough. It warps but little, and is much valued as slojd
timber.

The pear and the apple (Pyrus).-The wood of the
young tree is nearly white. Older wood is dark brown,
sometimes red in colour, and often streaked. It is very fine
and close in texture, hard, heavy and tough. The medullary
rays are small, and they and the annual layers are incon-
spicuous. It can be cut easily in all directions, and does not
splinter, owing to the uniformity of its texture.

The wood of the apple tree has a general resemblance to
that of the pear, but it is closer, redder, and harder — indeed
the apple furnishes one of the hardest timbers. The wood of
the wild pear or apple is superior to that of the cultivated
varieties. The wood of both trees is much esteemed.

The rowan (Sorbus Aucuparia). — The wood is whitish or
light brown. In some respects it resembles the white-beam,
but it is not so good. As slojd timber it may often rank
with the birch.

The common walnut (Juglans regia). — The wood of
the young tree is almost white, loose in texture, and soft.
Older wood is brownish grey or dark brown, and is often
beautifully marked. It is hard and strong, and generally

WOOD, OR TIMBER. 57

close in texture, though, like the oak, it has particularly
large pores. The medullary rays are almost invisible. It
dries very slowly, and shrinks a good deal. It is one of the
most beautiful European timbers, and is extensively used.

The following tropical timbers may also be mentioned : —

Ebony (Diospyros). — From Africa and the East Indies.
The sap-wood is quite white, the heart-wood generally quite
black, though sometimes brownish black with white streaks
and flecks towards its inner edge, which detract from the
value of the wood. Its texture is so uniform that it is im-
possible to distinguish the annual layers or the medullary
rays. The timber is brittle, but very hard, close and heavy.
On account of the three last-named qualities, and its beauty.
it is much esteemed, but it is too expensive to be used to
any great extent.

Mahogany (Swietenia Mahogani). — From Central America
and the West Indies. Other kinds of timber are also sold
under this name. When fresh the wood is generally reddish
•or brownish yellow, but it gradually darkens, and finally
becomes almost black. It has narrow, rather inconspicuous
annual layers, and small but distinctly visible pores. In
longitudinal section the figuring of this timber is very
beautiful. It has fleck-like or pyramidal markings, with a
fine satin-like lustre. It varies much in hardness, weight,
closeness, and general texture in different varieties. Ma-
hogany is under all circumstances very durable. It warps
but little ; shrinks less than any other timber ; and is never
attacked by worms. It is highly esteemed as timber, and is
very extensively used.

Lignum vitse (Guaiacum oficinale). — From Central
America. The wood is greenish or blackish brown, with

58 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

yellowish and dark streaks in longitudinal section. It is
heavy, resinous, very close-grained, and almost as hard as
metal. It is twisted in fibre, very difficult to split, and there-
fore not easy to work. Its extraordinary hardness and great
durability make it valuable in the case of articles which are
exposed to much wear and tear.

59

CHAPTER III.

TOOLS.
A. Choice of Tools.

The tools used in slojd teaching must be chosen with due ChoUe of
regard to the pupil's capacity. They ought to be neither
too large nor too heavy, but such as can be easily handled.
It might perhaps be considered advisable to use tools slighter
in make than those generally employed in slqjd-carpentry,
and the question might be raised whether such small tools as
are to be found in "children's tool-boxes" should not be
procured. Tools of this description are, however, usually too
inferior to be taken into consideration at all ; and, if specially
ordered in a good quality, they would be much dearer than
those sold in the ordinary course of trade. This applies
particularly to tools made of iron or steel. Moreover, such
small tools are particularly difficult to keep in order, because
they are very slight and brittle. And further, a little
experience in teaching proves that children from eleven to
fourteen years of age require tools quite as substantial and
durable as their elders. Whether or not a tool is too heavy
depends upon the person who uses it, for one child may have
the strength required to use a much heavier tool than can bo
used by another. In connection with this it should be noted,
tli at if children are not accustomed, while receiving instruction,
to use and to keep in order the tools used in ordinary life, it
will be very difficult for them to manage them when they are
older. It may be objected that if children use the ordinary
knife, saw, axe, etc., they may easily hurt themselves ; but
this is quite as likely to happen with " toy tools." Besides,
it is the duty of the teacher to insist that the children pay

60 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

attention to the manner of using the tools, and use them in
such a way that they do not hurt themselves.

Although we maintain that the tools used in slojd teaching
should be of the size generally employed, it does not therefore
follow that the largest size is to be selected, but rather that
the smallest should be chosen, such as the little hands of the
youthful pupil can efficiently wield without much trouble.
The handle of the knife should not be larger than can be
grasped, though the blade maybe of the usual size. The smooth-
ing plane should be 7£ inches long and 2f inches broad. The
trying plane should not be unnecessarily long ; 22 inches is long
enough, though the breadth ought to be 3^ inches, or broad
enough for an iron of 2| inches. If the trying plane is
narrower, it is difficult to plane a surface of any size, and
the smaller tool would occasion more work and trouble than
one of the dimensions given above. The handles of chisels
and similar tools should not be larger than is necessary.
The axe should not weigh more than 2 Ibs. The frames of the
bow saws should be of the lighter description of those used
in carpentry.

As one of the aims of slojd teaching is to develop the
physical powers of the pupil, each separate exercise must
lead up to the next in such a way that the pupil proceeds
from easier to more difficult work. But the most perfect
gradation of exercises arranged on this principle will not en-
sure success if the teacher does not know how to choose
suitable wood for the pupils' work, and does not take care
that they have good tools in good condition. As we demand
of the pupils work well executed and accurate in all its
details, we are bound to see that they are provided with
suitable wood and good tools.

As regards suitable wood, the reader is referred to Chapter
II. It need be merely named here that the wood must be
sound, well seasoned, straight in fibre, and, as far as possible,
free from knots.

TOOLS. 61

The tools selected should always be of the best quality, Quality of
even if these should prove rather more expensive. Instead of loo!t'
buying a large number of inferior tools at once, a few good
ones should be procured. But it is not enough to buy good
tools, they must be kept in good order. Ability to keep
tools in order is an indispensable qualification in a good
teacher of slojd, for if he lacks skill in this respect his Good tool*
teaching will also lack one of the first conditions of success. JJ**"1*"
There are two rather complicated tools which are particularly
difficult to keep in order, i.e., the plane and the saw. A
great deal of energy is wasted in slojd teaching if the pupils
work with badly set planes or with blunt saws. Hence
special care should be bestowed on these tools.

Practice in grinding tools and keeping them in order must Grinding-
be included in the instruction given. Great demands in this to°1*'
respect must not be made at first, but they may be gradu-
ally increased until the pupils, at least towards the end of
the course, are able to grind a plane iron and sharpen a
saw. If this is expected of the pupils, so much the more
must it be demanded of the teacher.

The description which follows attempts to give, to some
extent, detailed knowledge of the tools which are used in
educational wood - slojd, together with instructions for
keeping them in good condition. The illustrations accom-
panying the description are taken from selected tools and
appliances, and the scale is indicated by the fraction after
the name of the figure. Want of space prevents the insertion
of complete representations of all the tools, etc. A few
illustrations of this kind, particularly of benches and of a
cupboard for tools, have been added on separate plates at
the end of the book, for the guidance of those who wish to
make these articles. The technical names are, generally
speaking, those employed in carpentry ; but a proportion of
the names of tools, exercises, and methods of manipulation,
have originated and been adopted in the course of the de-
velopment of slojd teaching.

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

B. Appliances for holding the work.

1. The bench is the article most frequently used for
holding the work steady during its execution. It is the
most indispensable part of the apparatus required for slojd.

A complete
bench.

Fig. 5. Bench, '/ao-

A bench top, D front bench vice, C back bench vice, D bench well, E bench
drawer or till, F front rail of bench box, aa bench pegs or hooks, bb holes for
bench pegs, c vice tongue or key, ee screw-bolts, / back rail of bench box, gg vice-
screws, h front rail of bench.

The Single Bench (Fig. 5) is practically a strongly con-
structed table, heavy enough to stand steady during the work.
The bench top consists of a strong, hard, close piece of
plank about 3 inches thick. For the purpose of holding the
work fast it is provided either with one screw or two, ar-
ranged in a particular way, called the back bench vice and the
front bench vice. A complete bench (Fig. 5) has both ; one

ck bench of simpler construction (Fig. 8) has only the back bench vice.

e. At one end of the bench-top, to the right of the worker, a
rectangular piece is cut away from the anterior edge, its
length being parallel to the edge, and where this piece lias
been cut away a prismatical frame- work is moved by the
turning of a wood-screw. The nut into which this screw
catches is firmly fixed to the end of the bench top. The
frame-work is directed partly by the screw, partly by
separate bolts, and the screw is held fast by means of a wedge
or flat pin, which catches like a fork in a groove on the screw.

TOOLS. 63

This arrangement is called the back bench vice. The frame-
work is perforated perpendicularly by one or more square
holes, from 4 to 6 inches apart, and a row of similar holes is
introduced in the bench top, in a straight line with those in
the frame-work. When a plank is to be held in a horizontal
position on the bench, a bench peg is placed in a hole in the
bench vice, and another in a hole in the bench top at a dis-
tance corresponding to the length of the plank, and the screw
is applied. Care must be taken that the head of the bench
peg does not rise above the upper surface of the wood, and
also that, during planing, the iron of the plane does not como
in contact with the head of the peg, a fault often committed
through carelessness by beginners.

The bench pegs (Fig. 6) are rectangular pieces of iron from
8 to 10 inches long, which fit rather loosely into the holes of
the bench top, and are provided on one side with a steel
spring, in order that they may remain fixed at
any desired height. The head of the peg is
double-grooved, to hold the work securely. To
make room for the head of the peg, the holes in
the bench top are usually sufficiently enlarged
at the upper end to permit the head to be
pushed down, until its top is level with the
Fig. 6. bench top.

Bench Peg. Vic- ^he arrangement of the screw, to the left of Front tench
the worker, is termed the front bench vice. It is much ™*'
simpler in construction than the back bench vice. Fig. 5
shows its construction. A movable piece of wood is placed
in front of the end of the screw, called the vice tongue or key
(Fig. 7), partly to hold the work
more securely, partly to prevent
its being injured by the screw.
When a long piece of wood is
fastened into the front bench
vice for edge-planing, it is ad-
Fig. 7. Vice Tongue or Key. Vio-visable to allow the under edge

64 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

to rest upon a little block on a swivel, attached to the under
side of the bench top. If the screws do not turn easily, the
friction may be reduced by rubbing them well with pul-
verised plumbago.

On the side of the bench farthest from the worker is a
trough or channel, called the bench ivell, in which tools not
in actual use may be laid. Triangular pieces of wood, firmly
attached to the ends of this well, facilitate the sweeping out
of shavings, etc.

The different portions of the bench are fastened together
by dovetailing, mortising, and iron screws.

The bench top rests upon feet or rails, and it is often
furnished on the under side with a drawer or till. A similar
drawer may be connected with the rails.

The wood used for the bench top should be oak, ash, beech,
or hard pine ; for the screws, horn-beam or " figured " birch ;
for the well and the rails, fir or pine.

Fig. 8. Single Bench. Vso-
Top, 5 feet long by 1J feet broad. Height, 2 feet 7 inches. Naas pattern.

A simpler and somewhat cheaper bench for one worker is
represented in Fig. 8. It takes up little space, and it can be
procured for one-half — indeed one-fourth — of the cost of the
bench first described. It is furnished with a back-bench vice
only, consisting of a piece of wood moving on bolts, and

TOOLS. 65

worked by a screw fixed with a forked ivedge to the movable Bench after
front jaw of the vice. The bolts must be firmly inserted in
the detached portion of the vice, and must have their anterior
ends made fast in a cross-piece ; otherwise the movable por-
tion of the vice will not move easily and surely backwards and
forwards by means of the screw. To fasten a piece of wood
quite steadily in the vice it should be balanced as nearly as
possible on the top of the screw. When this is not done, it
has a tendency to fall to one side, and if this frequently hap-
pens the vice will finally be destroyed. This drawback
renders the bench less suitable than the one previously
described.

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SO 100 410 4XO -tBO /*O •ISO C.TTls.

Fig. 9. Double Bench.

The complete bench, represented in Fig. 5, is too large for Adjustable
general use in School-slojd, the space for which is generally
limited. A simpler bench, adapted from Fig. 8, is therefore
used, which has a " back-bench vice " at both ends, as indi-
cated in Fig. 9, with a shorter bench- well than is shown in
Fig. 5. When this bench is firmly fixed to the floor, two
pupils can work at it without disturbing one another.

Fig. 10 is a bench of English manufacture, well adapted for
slojd work, and is known as R. Trainer's Improved Bench.

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

Fig. 10. Trainer's Bench.

A bench top, D. tool tray or bench well, C. back stri

^. „. — , -„, _. _ , - back strip, d. tail (or back) bench vice,

e side (or front) bench vice, /. plane rest or fillet, </. Merrill s bench stop, hh. bench
pegs, tt. joint bolts, M M. fore legs, JVJT. rear legs, 0. front bottom rail, P. back
bsttom rail.

Fig. 10A. Philips' Registered Bench.

a. lid to hold tools (closes and covers bench well), 6. bench top, D. rigid frame fixed with
iron bolts, E. flag to draw out for holding work in hand, F. drawers.

Fig. 10A is a useful bench, also of English manufacture.
The lid is arranged to hold tools, &c., and when closed covers
the bench-well. The bench can be had either with or with-
For prices of these benches see end of book.

TOOLS.

out the lid, and as a single or a double bench. The size of
the Single Bench top is 5 feet long, by 1 foot 8| inches
wide. The Double Bench is 5 feet long by 3 feet wide, with
2 end and tail vices. Height 2 feet 6 inches.

The Holdfast is a simple appliance which is often used to
secure pieces of wood to the bench in sawing, boring, chiselling,
etc. The holdfast (Fig. 11), con- a

sists of a round iron or steel rod,
furnished at the upper end with
a strong arm. It is inserted in a
hole bored in the bench top, the
diameter of which is very little
larger than that of the cylindri-
cal portion of the holdfast. The
piece of work is laid under the
arm, and secured by a stroke Fig. 11. Holdfast. V,
from the mallet on the heel, in the direction a, and is
loosened by a stroke in the direction b. The holdfast may
therefore serve the same purpose as the back bench vice.

The shooting- board is a contrivance which may be
advantageously used when a partially planed piece of wooJ
has to be squared up at right angles to a plane surface or a
straight edge.

The shooting-board (Fig. 12) consists of a piece of hard
pine 1£ inches thick, 8 inches broad, and from 2 to 2£ feet
long, on one side of which there is a rebate, which serves as
a guide to the trying plane when in action. At the further
end there is a smooth rectangular block, the inner side of
which is carefully
secured at right
angles to the re-
bate of the plane
rest. Under this
plane rest a groove
is hollowed out, in Fig. 12. Shooting-board, Vis-

r»vr1nr '. VIOT tViP <?ViflV a- Plane rest, 6. Block for square shooting, c. Rest for

ordei unat trie snav- ^^ Rebate anj ^^ ^ Wock for mitre shooting ^
ings may not pre- an angle of 45'.

68 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

vent the plane from lying close to the rebate during work.
Instead of a rebate made in a thick piece of wood, two pieces
may be fastened together, a narrower above a broader piece.
In this way a rebate will be formed. Before they are fas-
tened together, the under part of the inner edge of the top
piece must be cut away so as to form the groove for shavings.

When the shooting-board is in use, it is secured between
two bench pegs. The piece of wood which is to be squared
is held and pressed against the trying-plane with the left
hand, the plane being directed by the right. Care must be
taken not to plane anything off the edge of the rebate, or to
hurt the fingers.

The shooting-board may also be used for mitre shooting
pieces of wood which are to be fastened together at an angle
of 45°, by placing before the block for square-shooting a
triangular block whose anterior edge forms an angle of 45°
with the edge of the rebate. See Fig. 12.

II. Handscrews.

Handscrews are used to secure the work to the bench,
and to hold several pieces of work fast while a drawing is
being made or while glue is drying. The bench itself, when
not otherwise engaged, may be used with advantage in the
case last named.

Handscrews are made of wood or of iron, and are of
various sizes.

Wooden handscrews (Figs. 13, 14), consist of three
straight pieces of wood, two of which are joined to the third
on the same side, and at right angles to it. Horn-beam or
tough birch is the best wood for the purpose. A strong
wooden screw passes through one of the parallel arms and
gives the necessary pressure.

As the handscrew is sometimes subjected to a greater
strain than the construction just described can bear, it is
often strengthened by an iron rod. (See Fig. 14.)

TOOLS.

Fig. 13. Handscrew. |. Fig. 14. Ilandscrew. £.

Fig. 15. Adjustable
Handscrew. iV

When the screw is applied, one hand only should grasp the
handle, and the other should take hold of the screw either
above or below the nut. Otherwise, if the pressure is great,
the screw may break. If the screw should go off the
straight during the process, a light blow from the mallet on
the lower part will put it right. A piece of wood should
always be laid under the point of the screw, to prevent
marks on the work.

[The English hand-
screw (Fig. 16) differs
from the Swedish
handecrew in having
two screws a a in-
stead of one. These
screws work in oppo-
site directions,through
two square wooden
cheeks, b 6.— TRS.]

Fig. 16. English Handscrew.
a a screws, 6 6 cheeks.

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

Thumbscrew cramps are now made
of wrought iron. This gives strength
without weight or clumsiness. These
screws are very useful, and easily
managed. (See Fig. 17).

When broad pieces of wood have to
be glued together, and the handscrews
already described are not large enough,
and the bench is not available, use is
made of a screw in which a movable
block is substituted for one of the
parallel arms. Such screws are called
Fig. 17. iron Handscrew, adjustable handscrews (see Fig. 15).

or Thumbscrew cramp, i-
or Gee Cramp.

C. Setting out.

It is often necessary for accurate workmanship to draw
or mark the outlines of the pattern object on the wood, at
various stages of the work. This is done by tracing round
the outline of the model, by copying a drawing, or by means
of given measurements.

The following tools are necessary : —

I. The metre-measure

for measuring off and
subdividing measure-
ments. A rule of hard
wood, one metre or half
a metre long, divided
into centimetres and
Fig. 18. Folding Metre-measure. |. millemetres, is the best

for the purpose. A thin

folding rule of strong wood or ebonite may be used for less
exact measurements, and is convenient to carry about, but is

TOOLS. 71

not altogether trustworthy, on account of the looseness of its
construction, and the gaps at the joints.*

II. In drawing- straight lines use is made of
an ordinary ruler and a lead pencil, but when
great accuracy is required a marking point
should be used. This consists of a piece of steel,
tapering to a sharp point, about 4 inches long and
^ inch thick, inserted in a handle (Fig. 19).

III. In drawing lines parallel to the edges of
a piece of wood, the marking gauge is used.

Many different kinds are made, but those gener-
ally used agree in the main details. They consist
of a piece of wood, the stock, which has at least
two parallel plane surfaces. A spindle, either
circular or square in cross-section, passes through
a mortise in the stock. At one end of the spindle -p. ig
is a sharp lancet-shaped steel marker. Some Marking-point
Swedish marking gauges have two spindles. Vs.
That side of the stock which is placed against the edge to
which the lines drawn are to be parallel, may vary in length,
but when lines are drawn parallel to a straight edge (the
most usual case), the longer the stock is the better, because
tins facilitates the accurate management of the tool, and
enables even an inexperienced hand to gauge.
(1.) Marking gauge

with rectangular long

stock and cylindrical

spindle (Fig. 20). The

stock is sawn into at one Figi 20. Marking gauge. Landmark's

end as far as the mortise, patent. #.

and to secure the spindle after insertion this end is furnished

with a screw, by means of which the spindle is held fast in

* Where the English system of measurement is followed, a two foot rule is used,
divided into eighths of an inch on one side, and into sixteenths on the other.
The use of the metre-measure is, however, strongly recommended. (See foot-
note, page 13).— TRS.

72

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

Fig. 21. Marking-gauge. V*.
gauge without difficulty.

the manner indicated in Fig. 20. If a thumbscrew and nut
are substituted for this screw, the necessary pressure can be
more easily and surely produced. (See Plate X).

(2.) Marking gauge (Fig. 21) with rectangular long stock
and rectangular spindle. The spindle is held in place by
wedges. This is a simple and inexpensive marking gauge,
invented by Herr Alfred Johansson, head-teacher at Naas!
It is recommended as a useful and practical tool for school
purposes. (See Plate X.)

The long stock of this
marking gauge gives it the
advantage already indi-
cated over those hitherto
in use, i.e., it enables in-
experienced workers to

The English mark-
ing gauge (Fig. 22)
differs from the
Swedish one in
having a thumb-
Fig. 22. English Marking-gauge. screw a on one side

a. Thumbscrew. of the stock, which

works against the spindle and holds it in position.

The Marker. The marker must be kept well filed and pointed to secure
fine distinct lines, parallel throughout with the edge. The
side farthest from the stock should be straight, and as nearly
as possible parallel with the side of the stock. The inner
side of the marker, on the contrary, should be slightly convex.
The marker is thus calculated to cut inwards away from the
edge, and does not " run off the lines " as a bad marker does,
when it meets with a hard layer of autumn wood in cutting
in the direction of the grain. With a good marker the gauge
should act easily and well without exertion of any kind on
the part of the worker.

73

(3) The cutting gauge has a parallelepiped shaped spindle
secured by a wedge (Fig. 23). Instead of a pin-shaped
marker it is provided
with a thin steel cutter,
adjusted by means of a
pin. Cuttings more or
less deep may thus be
made on the surface of
the work. This tool is Fig. 23. Cutting Gauge. J.

chiefly used for gauging across the grain, and in setting out
for grooving and dove-tailing.

In this, as in all marking gauges, it is important that the
marker should be inserted in such a way that the inner side,
and consequently the point, is slightly inclined outwards from
the side of the stock.

IV. Compasses.

1. The compass generally used in slb'jd is
a simple one made of steel with a hinge. As
it is often necessary to maintain the distance
between the arms unaltered, this compass is
provided with a bow, which is attached to
one arm, and which can be secured to the
other by a screw. A compass of this kind is
called a bow-compass (Fig. 24).

When segments of large circles have to be
described, beam-compasses are used. In
place of the arms of the ordinary compass,
these are furnished with trammels, aa, united Fig. 24.
by a cross-piece or beam, 6, and pointed at Compasses. J.
one end, where there is a steel pin. One of the trammels is
fixed to the cross-piece ; the other is movable, and is adjusted
by means of a pin.

74

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

Fig. 25. Trammel Heads, or Beam Compasses.
CM. Trammels, 66, Beam.

Fig. 26. Caliper Compasses.

2. The Caliper Compass
is used to measure the
thickness of round or oval
objects. This compass has
very strong curved arms
with points which taper
obliquely. The ordinary
caliper compass may be
used to measure the dia-
meter of a hole, by turn-
ing the arms round the
hinge until the points are

turned away from one another (Fig. 26).

V. Squares and Bevels,

Squares are used for testing right angles, bevels for testing
angles of various sizes.

TOOLS. 75

The Square consists of a short
thick piece called the stock, with a
longer, thinner piece at one end, and
at right angles to it, called the blade.
The stock projects beyond the sides
of the blade, and the tool can be
easily applied to the straight edge of
a piece of wood, that lines may be
drawn on the surface at right angles
to this straight edge. All the angles
of the square, exterior as well as
interior, must be perfect right angles.
This is not only essential for the
operation just described, but also Fig. 27. Wooden Square, fc.
because the square is used for testing solid angles, e.g., the
edge of a plank, a corner, etc.

Every good collection of tools should
include several squares of different sizes,
e.g., with blades 6, 8, 12, and 18 inches
long.

The square should be made of hard
well-seasoned wood, warranted not to
warp. To give greater durability the
blade is often made of steel, and the wood
of the stock faced with brass on the inner
side (Fig. 28). Still stronger and more
trustworthy squares are made with steel
blades and cast-iron stocks. Squares of Fig. 28. Square with
this kind are particularly useful as testing steel b'adc- «•
squares, and one ought to be included in every good collection
of tools.

To test a square. The blade is laid on the plane surface
of a block of prepared wood, with the stock against a
perfectly straight edge. Lines, drawn against each side of
the blade, are then made on the wood. The square is next

7G

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

To test a
plane sur-
face.

reversed, the stock is placed as before, and the edges of the
blade are placed close to the lines previously made. Lines
are then drawn once more along the edges of the blade. If
these lines coincide, or are perfectly
parallel with those made first, the square
is correct.

2. The set-bevel (Fig. 29) consists,
like the preceding, of a stock and a blade,
but the latter, which generally extends
beyond the end of the stock, is attached
in such a way that it forms on one side
an angle of 45°, and on the other an angle
of 135°, or the complementary angle of a
straight angle. It is used when a rec-
tangular corner is made by joining
Fig. 29. Set-bevel or together pieces cut at an angle of 45°.
Such pieces are said to be mitred.

In the wooden bevel the
blade rotates on a screw in
the stock. To secure the
blade in any given position
the screw is furnished with
a nut, by means of which it
may be screwed fast. (Fig.
30.)

mitre-bevel.

Fig. 30. The Wooden Bevel. 1.

VI. Winding laths or straight edges. To test the ac-
curacy of plane surfaces, a long, perfectly straight ruler or
straight edge is used. When this is placed on the surface
in various directions, there must be complete contact be-
tween it and the surface. A still more delicate method of
proof is furnished by the double straight edge, or two
straight edges exactly the same (Fig. 31). In applying the
test the straight edges are placed one at each end of the
piece of wood, and parallel to one another. On careful

77

31. Winding laths or straight edges. ^.

inspection, if the surface is level the upper edges of the
rulers will be found to be in the same plane. The straight
edges, when not in use, are held together by a couple of pegs.

The edge of the trying-plane is often used instead of the
straight edge, and two trying-planes instead of the double
straight edge. See further under "face planing," p. 136.

D. Tools used for cutting up wood and
making the articles.

I. Saws.

The saw is an indispensable tool, and in the case of most
articles it is the first used. The blade is made of thin steel
of various breadths, on one edge of which a series of sharp
points form the teeth. The steel must be soft enough to be
acted on by the file, and to admit of the teeth being slightly
turned aside without breaking off.

The saw acts by tearing or cutting the fibres of the wood
as the teeth of the blade pass over them. The teeth are,
therefore, the characteristic part of the saw, and its efficiency
depends on their form, size, and quality.

The shape and size of the teeth vary considerably in
different kinds of saws. The form generally used in wood
slojd is shown in Fig. 32. The form of the teeth is that of

78

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

Form and

Length oj
the teeth.

Fig. 32.

Teeth of a bow saw for
ripping. J.

why the saw
must be set.

a scalene triangle, the base
of which is formed by the
blade. The shortest side
forms an angle of 80°-90'
with the base. In the frame
saw (Fig. 37, B\ the angle
is 90° ; in the bow-saw, the dove-tail saw, etc., it is 80°-85°.

The teeth of any given saw must always be alike in size
and shape, and must always be set at the same angle. The
shorter side of the teeth, being nearly at right angles with
+,he blade, is the cutting side, and in working the saw this is
the side which should enter the wood. When the saw is
drawn back, the more sloping side of the teeth has very little
effect upon the fibres, and the saw "goes empty."

The teeth of the bow-saw
for cross cutting form an isos-
celes triangle of 50° between
the teeth. A saw of this
description cuts equally well
backwards or forwards
The space between the teeth must be great enough to leave
room for the sawdust until the saw has carried the latter
beyond the wood. Now, as the sawdust occupies more
space than the wood from which it is produced, the teeth
of the saw must be considerably longer than the depth of the
cut made each time the saw passes through the wood, and
the point only of the teeth must be allowed to cut the wood,
to prevent hindrance to their action by an accumulation of
sawdust. If the sawdust prevents the free passage of the
saw, or if it clings about the teeth, it is either because the
teeth are too small, or because too much pressure is laid on
the saw.

It is almost impossible to avoid considerable friction
between the blade and the sides of the cut, and this friction
is increased by the sawdust which accumulates at the sides

Fig. 33. Teeth of a bow-saw for
cross-cutting, or wood-saw. •J.

TOOLS. 79

of the blade. It is therefore necessary to give the blade a
certain amount of " play ;" in other words, the breadth of the
cut must be greater than the thickness of the blade. This is
effected by bending the teeth alternately a little to the one
side and to the other, or, as it is termed, by setting the saw.

Setting- is performed by means of the Saw-set, a steel
blade TV inch
thick, the edges
of which are
indented by

notches of var- Fig. 34. Saw-set, i.

ious breadths. Some English Saw-sets are furnished with
an adjustable slide rest. In setting a saw the blade is
fastened into Saw Sharpening- Clamps (Fig. 35) and these
are screwed to the bench. One tooth after another is grasped
by the notch of the Saw-set best adapted to the thickness of
the tooth, and the blade of the Saw-set being held in such
a way as to conceal the point of the tooth, the latter is then
turned sharply aside. It must not, as is
sometimes done, be twisted at the same time
in the direction of the length of the blade,
as this may cause it to break off. Great
accuracy is required in the operation, and
the setting should never be so extreme that
the width of the cut is more than double the
thickness of the teeth. If this width is
exceeded the sa~w will not act easily.

Considerable practice and skill are requir- Fi?' 35; ^ sb*rp' v«™*v

ening clamps. One net taw*.
ed to set a saw. The points of the teeth hal{ loosely fastened

should form a line exactly parallel to the to the other by means
length of the blade, but it often happens that of wood screws. ^.
some teeth project beyond this line and others fall within it.
This fault may be remedied to some extent by drawing the
blade between a couple of gouges, fixed points downwards in
a piece of wood, with the convex sides facing one another.

To u-hat ex.
tent a sa<j>
should be

80 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

The blade of the saw is placed between them, teeth upwards,
and the points turned from the operator, or in the direction
from d to c (Fig. 32), the handles are grasped with one hand
to bring the gouges close together, and the blade of the saw
is drawn forwards between them.

setting In consequence of the difficulty of setting a saw evenly

***• and at a good angle, many different kinds of saw-sets and
setting-tongs have been devised. The latter are intended
to be adjustable for any desired inclination of the teeth.
Some of these tools, however, are not practically useful, and
those which are fully adapted for use are generally too expen-
sive for ordinary purposes.

As indicated above, setting must not go beyond a fixed
limit. Provided that the saw has free passage through the
wood, the finer the cut it makes the better ; and much less
inclination of the teeth is necessary, in the case of dry timber,
than in unseasoned or loose-fibred wood.

sate biada Less setting is also necessary in the case of saw-blades
%ackf '" which increase in thickness towards the teeth. These are
made in the best manufactories, and are always preferable
to blades of equal thickness throughout. So-called compass
saws often have blades of this kind, and require no setting.
sharpen™ Quite as important as the setting of the saw is its sharpen-
tatc' ing, and it is often necessary to perform both operations at
the same time.

To sharpen a saw, it is secured in the saw-sharpening
clamps; and the ordinary kinds of saw used in wood slb'jd
are sharpened by means of a triangular file (Fig. 3G).

Fig. 36. Triangular or Three-square File. J.*
Care must be taken that the two sides of the file which

* The file represented in the illustration is a single-cut file ; but a double-
cut file should be used.— TRS.

TOOLS. 81

are to be used form the angle necessary to produce the in-
clination in the edges of the teeth indicated above. This
being secured, the file is drawn across the blade at right
angles to it. Every indentation must be filed equally deep,
or, in other words, the point of each tooth must stand equally
high. The row of teeth is next tested with the straight edge,
and if any of the teeth stand higher than the others, they
must be topped or filed doivn with a fine broad file, and then
sharpened once more.

Sharpening is begun at the end of the blade, towards
which the points of the teeth are turned, or from c to d
(Fig. 32). The degree thus produced on the points is always
in the direction to which the teeth are turned, not away from
it. In the latter case, the saw would be rather blunt. Each
tooth must be carefully filed, that its edges may be quite
sharp, and the cutting side quite straight.

Should the saw, after sharpening, be insufficiently set, it
must be set again, after which the file must be once more
passed over the teeth to remove any irregularities. Generally
speaking, setting precedes sharpening.

Sharpening is sometimes performed by passing the file
obliquely over the edge of the blade, instead of at right angles
to it. The edges of each tooth are thus sharpened obliquely
from within outwards (see Fig. 33). The file is first passed
obliquely through every alterative tooth-space. The saw is
then reversed, so that its ends change places, and the remaining teeth.
spaces are operated on in the same way. This gives a knife-
like edge to both sides of the teeth, and makes the saw cut
particularly swiftly and well. The common wood-saws, some
tcnon-saivs, and hand-saws, are sharpened in this way.

It need hardly be added that setting and sharpening are
not only necessary in the case of new saws, but also as often
as the teeth become worn or lilutit.

p

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

The saws now to be described may be classed in two groups,
i.e., saws with frames, and saws without frames.

The former have the ends of the blade fastened into a
frame, the tension of which may be regulated to produce the
necessary amount of resistance. In the latter kind of saw

this power of resistance is
given by means of the greater
breadth and thickness of the
blade, or by setting the back
of the blade in a binding of
metal. This binding is called
the saw-back.

1. Saws with Frames.

1 . The Frame Saw (Fig. 37)
is the largest saw used in
Slb'jd. It is used for sawing
up planks and other pieces
of wood lengthwise into thin-
ner pieces. It is worked by
two people, and in a hori-
zontal direction. The blade
has from 3 to 4 teeth per inch,
and it is fastened into an
oblong wooden frame, mid-
way between the side-rails.

The ends of the blade are
enclosed in and strengthened
by pieces of white-iron, and
are fastened by the attached
pieces running through each
top-rail. Tension is produced
by turning the winged nut.
The ^^^ot the teeth

Fig. 37. A. Frame Saw.

B. Saw blade end with attachment. 1.

at an angle of 90°.

S3

2. Bow Saws (Fig. 38) are of different sizes. They are
much used in wood-slbjd, not only in the earlier, but in the
later stages of work. Bow saws have all the same kind
of frame, consisting of a bar called the stretcher, longer than
the blade and parallel to it, at each end of which there is
either a square mortise or a fork-like notch for the recep-
tion of the cross-pieces or side-arms. The latter, though care-
fully fitted in, yet have a certain amount of play at the ends
•of the stretcher, in order that they may be drawn closer
to each other on either side of the stretcher when the saw is
tightened. At one end of each side-arm there is a round
hole, through which passes a well-
fitting peg with a handle. This peg
is sawn through the middle length-
wise to form a slot for the saw blade,
which often extends a certain length
into the handle. The blade of the
saw is narrower at the ends where it
enters the handle. In it are one or
two holes, through which the fasten-
ing pin runs.

Blades fastened in this way often
-twist when tightened, and conse-
quently cut badly. This happens
especially when the axis of the handle
is not exactly in line with the blade.
This defect may be remedied by sub-
stituting for prolongations of the
blade itself, the white-iron attach-
ments (Fig. 39), and securing them in
the usual way. The ends of the
blade are fastened between the plates Fig. 38. Broad- webbed
of the attachment merely by a screw 0 8tretcherB?ftIifieIms. c blade.
-or nail, in order that the blade may
.be freely adjusted.

?handle-

84 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

The side-arms are connected at the other end by several
strands of strong string, which are twisted together by a
tightener, in order to give the required tension to the blade.
When the string is put on, the frame is fastened between the
bench pegs.

The stretcher is made of fir or pine; the side-arms of harder
wood, e.g., beech or oak. The different parts of the frame
are made as light as is compatible with strength, that the
saw may not be too heavy to manage with one hand.

wanner of jn working, the saw should be

holding th« °

firmly grasped by the side-arm
- _ 0:0-j just above the handle. In the
case of the lighter description of
saws, the handle, as well as the

Fig. 39. Saw-blade end, lower part of the side-arm, should
with attachment, j. be held in the hand, and the index
finger should steady the blade.

Generally speaking, the blade is fixed obliquely to the
plane of the frame; partly that the worker may saw deeply
without hindrance from the frame, and partly that he may
be able to see the line \\shich the saw is to follow.

In tightening the blade — which is best done by turning
both handles simultaneously — care must be taken that it is
perfectly straight. Otherwise a straight cut can hardly be
obtained.

If the saw is out of use for any length of time, the tightener
should always be slackened. When this is not done the side-
arms may become twisted.

Bow-saws have different names, depending on the nature
of the blade. The " hook," i.e., angle of the teeth is shown
in Fig. 32.

TOOLS. 85

A. The Broad-webbed Bow-saw is shown in Fig. 38. Its
blade is 1 to 1J inches broad. It is used
in numerous cases, e.g., in sawing off long
slips of wood, where a straight cut is all
that is required. It has 4 to 5 teeth
per inch.

R The Turn-saw (Fig. 40). The frame
resembles the preceding, but the blade is
very narrow — about £ inch, or very little
more — because it is used to produce cur-
vilinear cuts. The toothing is very fine —
7 teeth per inch — and the setting is
sometimes less than in the bow-saw, that
the cut may be accurate, and not unneces-
sarily broad. Fig. 40. Turn-saw.

Turn-saws, the blades of which are over half an inch in
breadth, are also used. These are called broad-webbed turn
saws.

2. Saws without Frames.

1. The Hand-saw (Fig. 41) has a very broad blade, which
is narrower at one end, and is provided at the broader end
with a convenient handle. The large blade gives it sufficient
strength, and this is often increased by the thickness of the
blade, which may exceed that of the frame-saw. The teeth
are set to cut, when the worker pushes the saw away from
him, but not when the saw is drawn back.

This saw, distinguished for its simplicity and convenience
in working, is in general use in England and North America,
but has only within recent years been adopted in Sweden,
where it is now rapidly gaining favour.

Pig. 41. Hand-saw,

86 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

2. The Dovetail saw (Fig. 42) has a very broad blade of
equal breadth throughout, with a handle. To give sufficient
strength to the blade, its upper edge is enclosed in an

iron back. This
thick back
limits the depth
of the cut ; con-
sequently this
saw is only
used for shallow
Fig. 42. Dovetail-saw. £. incisions, e.g.,

in sawing out tenons, dovetails, etc. This saw has 10 to 12
teeth per inch. The shape of the teeth is shown in Fig. 32,
but they are often sharpened with advantage in the manner
shown in Fig. 33.

[3. The Tenon-saw is practically the same as the dovetail-
saw, but it is rather larger, and it has what is called a Box-
handle, somewhat like that of the hand-saw. — TRS.]

4. The Compass-saw (Fig. 43). The blade is very nar-
row, and terminates in a point. This saw is used when

an excision
has to be
made in the
centre of a
piece of

Fig. 43. Compass-saw. £. work, and

cannot be begun from the edge. For this purpose a hole must
be bored, into which the point of the saw can be inserted.
To give the blade sufficient strength it is made tolerably
thick, but it becomes thinner towards the back. Compass-
saws are of various sizes, and the teeth are set in different
Ways. The number of teeth varies from 5 to 12 per inch, but
their form is in most cases that shown in Fig. 32.

4. The Groove-saw * (Fig. 44) has a tolerably thick blade
* Unknown in England, but recommended as useful.— TRS.

TOOLS.

87

of equal breadth throughout, the upper edge of which is
entirely enclosed by a handle, which is worked by both
hands. The teeth are inclined towards the worker, and
consequently act when he draws the saw towards him.

It sometimes
happens, especi-
ally in clamping
and grooving,
that an incision
must be made in
a broad flat piece
of wood, and in

many cases it I

must not be Fig. 44. Groova-saw. J.

carried to the edge. With the exception of the tenon-saw,
the saws hitherto described cannot be used for this purpose.
The groove-saw is perfectly adapted for it, whereas the tenon-
saw is not quite so convenient, because the setting of its teeth

is not suitable, and it has only one handle.

•.

II. The Axe.

After the saw the axe is one of the most useful tools in the
earlier stages of any piece of work. Axes are of various
kinds, manufactured for different purposes. An axe of
American construction, very suitable for slojd work, is shown
in Fig. 45. The edge and faces are slightly curved, and
ground on both
sides. The axe
should not weigh
more than about
21bs., that it
may, without
trouble,be wield-
ed by one hand. Fig. 45. Axe. Ohio pattern. \.
The handle, of hard and tough wood, such as oak or ash,
should be curved so as to fall well into the hand, and the axe

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

shaft must be firmly secured by wedges into the eye of the
axe-head.

In working with the axe the wood is supported on a block,
formed of an evenly sawn-off piece of the trunk of a tree.
The best tree for this purpose is the poplar.

The surface of the block must always be kept free from
sand, which would destroy the edge of the axe.

It is of the utmost importance for beginners to hold the
piece of wood in such a way that the hands may receive no
injury.

grinding In grinding1 (see under this head, pp. 115-118) the axe

the axe. an(j aj} other edge-tools, the tool must be held steadily

against the grindstone, in order that the bevelled edge may

be quite regular and of the same breadth, not waving. The

two bevelled edges should form an angle of about 20°.

III. The Knife.

The knife is the slojder's indispensable and most important
tool> and ifc is the £rst to be pkced in the hands o£ a Beginner.

It is therefore important to select for slojd suitable knives
of the best quality. The blade of the slojd knife should be
made of good steel, about 4 inches long, and not more than

£ inch broad.
The edge
should be

Fig. 46. Slojd-knife— Niias pattern, i. straight, and

the two faces which form it should extend over the entire
breadth of the blade. The back of the knife should not be
more than ^ inch thick. The blade ought not to taper tc a
dagger-like point, but should terminate as is shown in Fig.
46. The best angle for the edge is 15°. The other end of
the blade terminates in a tang which slots into the handle.

TOOLS.

A commoner,
though by no
means so suit-
able form of
knife is shown Fig. 47. Slojd knife. I.

in Fig. 47. Directions for using the knife are given in Chap.

IV— The Draw-Knife.

This consists of a steel blade with an edge formed by
.grinding on one side only. This blade is furnished at both
ends with handles, at right angles to it, and in the same
plane. The tool is worked with both hands, so that the

Fig. 48. Draw-knife. J.

"whole strength of the slb'jder can be thrown into its use. use of the
The draw-knife is chiefly used in modelling and smoothing
objects with curved outlines. It is also used in making
hoops for barrels, &c. Directions for its use are given in
•Chap. V.

V.- Chisels, Gouges, Carving- Tools, &c.

These terms include a whole group of tools which are used
in wood-slqjd for the removal of small pieces of wood, in
•cases where the knife, the saw, or the plane could not advan-
tageously be used.

They consist of a flat or concave blade made of steel, the Parts of a
•cutting end of which is cut straight across and sharpened to chliel> &e'

90

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

an edge, and the other wrought into a four- sided tang, which
is set into a wooden handle. The tool in working is driven
into the wood either by the pressure of the hand, or by
blows from a mallet. In order that the handle may not slip,.
or twist round when grasped, it is generally made with four
sides, greater in breadth than in thickness, and with the
broader sides rounded.* To keep the handle from splitting
under violent pressure, the base of the-
tang is furnished with a shoulder, on
which the handle rests.

These tools vary greatly in size both as
regards length and breadth. The latter
dimension determines the dimensions of
the edge. The broadest tools are gener-
ally also the longest.

In order to be able to execute all the
different kinds of exercises which occur,
it is necessary to have a complete set of
each description of tools. There are
usually 12 in a set, all of different breadths.
Tools of this kind are classified accord-
ing to the different shapes of the blade
and edge, and the different methods of

A J

Fig. 49. Firmer Chisel \.

A. Blade and handle.

B. Blade showing a face

and edge.

C. Blade, c. shoulder, d.

tang.

sharpening as follows : —

1. Chisels.

The face side A. of the firmer chisel is perfectly flat.

1. The Firmer Chisel (Fig. 49). The breadth of the blade,
which varies from 1£ inches to £ inch, is generally much
greater than its thickness. The angle between the bevel
and the flat face varies from 25° to 30°.

The firmer chisel is used in paring plane or convex surfaces ;
in mortising, when it often does duty instead of the mortise
* English handles are generally turned in boxwood or beech.— TRS.

91

chisel ; in curved work ; in facing off; and, generally speak-
ing, in all cases where no other tool can be made use of with
advantage.

2. The Mortise-chisel (Fig. 50). The thickness of the
blade generally exceeds its breadth, which varies from £ inch
to 1 inch. The front face of the blade is always a little
broader than the back.

The mortise-chisel is used for mortising; and, whenever
possible, a blade of the same breadth as the mortise to be
made should be selected. The great thickness of the tool
enables its sides to act with
steady force upon the sides
of the mortise, and makes
accurate execution of the
operation much easier. It
is driven into the wood by
blows from a mallet. The
angle of the edge is tho
same as in the firmer chisel.

2. Gouges.

These tools have a
curved edge.

The blade of the gouge
is concave. The bevelled
edge may either be (a)
ground from within out-
wards, in which case the
edge will lie upon the inner
or concave side, or (6) in
the reverse way, when the A- Fig. 51. Gouge i.

edge will lie upon the outer Fig 50. Mortise-chisel. J. *> ^ edge on
or convex sidS ^J^"* . ~t

Gouges ground in the

first mentioned manner are used in the formation of grooves
or bowl-shaped depressions. Those ground in the other way

92 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

are used chiefly in perpendicular paring to produce concave
and cylindrical surfaces.

The breadth of the gouge varies from ^ inch to 1| inches,
and the curve of the edge may include from one-tenth to one-
half of a circle, or 36° to 180°. All the gouges in one set
should have the same curve in the edge. The gouge is driven
into the wood by the hand, or in the case of gouges of large
size, by the mallet.

3. The Spoon Gouge and the Spoon Iron.

Ordinary gouges are often used in forming the bowls of
spoons and similar articles, but the tools specially adapted,
and best for the purpose, are the spoon gouge and spoon iron.
The larger illustration (Fig. 52) shows the spoon gouge. In
construction, and in the way it is used, it somewhat resembles
A (Fig. 51) ; but it differs from it in having the blade curved
lengthwise, to facilitate the work of hollowing out.

The spoon iron is
different in form.
It is shown in the
smaller illustration
(Fig. 52), and re-
sembles a knife
Fig. 52. Spoon Gouge and Spoon Iron. \. with a lancet-
shaped blade, with two edges, curved like a bow, and taper-
ing to a point at the end. It is worked with both hands, and
cuts to either side.

4. Carving Tools.

A number of tools, more or less like the preceding, are used
in wood-carving. Some of thess carving tools are flat, with
rectangular edges; others ars oblique to the direction of their
length, with a bevelled edge on both sides; others are concave,
with a circular edge, or have two edges meeting in a point.
They are straight in some cases ; in others, curved.

As only a few of these tools are used in slojd carpentry, to

TOOLS.

93

any extent worth mentioning, no description of them is given;
but those in most common use, with their names, are shown
in Fig. 53. The full size of the edge is given in the outline
beside the representation of each tool.

Fig. 53. Carving Tools.

Curved gouge.
Front bent gouge.

Straight parting tool:
Bent parting tool

Bent chisel
Parting gouge.

VI. Plr.nes.

The edge tools hitherto described consist of a single steel
blade, with a cutting edge of various descriptions, and a
handle for one or both hands. The inclination of the edge
to the surface of the wood may thus be altered at will, as the
circumstances of the case require. Narrow surfaces, or sur-
faces of generally circumscribed area, may thus be levelled
and smoothed to a certain extent (though not perfectly) by
the knife, the axe, the chisel, etc. ; but when long and broad
surfaces have to be made absolutely smooth, we require an

94 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

edge-tool which, by attacking in the first place all the eleva-
tions, and by always cutting equally deep on a plane surface
(i.e., by always removing shavings of the same thickness),
finally reduces the surface to one uniform level.

The plane is the tool which fulfils these requirements.
In the plane, the steel blade called the plane-iron is wedged
tightly into a parallelopiped-shaped wooden block, called the
plane stock, which is formed in various ways for various
' purposes. The edge of the blade extends slightly beyond the
under side of the block.

The plane is used not only in the dressing of plane surfaces,
but also in the preparation of all surfaces on which straight
lines can be drawn in at least one direction ; e.g., in smoothing
the surface of cylindrical and conical objects, etc. Con-
sequently, many different kinds of planes are required.

All planes, however, consist of two principal parts : tho
sole or stock, and the iron. The stock is formed of hard,
tough, straight-fibred wood in the form of a parallelepiped,
the under side of which, the sole, glides over the work when
the tool is used. The best wood is elm, beech, pear, or box-
wood, which has been well seasoned to prevent warping.
The plane is worked with both hands. The front part of
Swedish planes is often provided with a rest for the hand,
called the horn. The larger kind of planes have a handle
behind the iron.

The plane-iron is placed obliquely in a hole in the stock,
called the socket (Figs. 54 and 56), with its edge extending a
very little beyond the sole, and it is secured by a wooden
wedge. It is made of iron, with a steel front. In shape it
resembles a wedge, the thicker end of which is sharpened.
The wedge-like shape gives the required thickness and
strength to the sharpened end, leaves more room towards the
upper end, and also helps to keep the plane-iron firmly in its
place when the edge comes against hard knots in the wood
and the pressure tends to force the iron upwards.

TOOLS. 95

To form the edge, the plane-iron is ground on the posterior Angie ofthe
or bevelled edge. This forms an angle of from 20° to 25° «to»tf«*«
with the front face of the plane-iron. The former angle is ^nd'ittpoti-
suitable for loose fibred timber ; the latter for hard or knotty tion in the
wood. The edge must not be too thin, for if so, the iron will
fly, i.e., become jagged. The iron is generally placed in the
socket at an angle of 45° to the plane of the sole, with the
bevelled edge downwards.

It occasionally happens, e.g., in small American planes with
iron stocks, that the bevelled edge of the plane-iron is turned
upwards at an angle of 25° to the plane of the sole. It may
-also be mentioned, in passing, that in planes manufactured for
special purposes, e.g., planing particularly hard kinds of wood,
the irons are placed at an angle of 50°, 55°, tiO°, or even 90°.

As indicated above, the plane acts by removing thicker or
thinner shavings, according as the plane-iron extends more
or less beyond the sole. In working with the knife it is
always possible to alter the position of the edge in order to
prevent its cutting in the same direction as the fibres run,
which would tear them, and render the surface uneven. But
at is not always possible to guide the stationary plane-iron
in this way. Hence in cross-grained wood, or in timber
•where the fibres lie parallel with the surface, the plane has a
tendency to split or tear them, and the resistance offered by
the torn fibres is often so great that the plane cannot be
driven forward. The fibres also, by their elasticity, tend to
drag the iron downwards. To prevent the fibres tearing in
front of the iron, provision must be made (1) for breaking
them off at once, and (2) for bringing at the same time pres-
sure to bear on them from above, just over the edge of the
iron, by means of which their elasticity may be diminished
or wholly neutralised. The first object is attained by placing
a cover above the iron, the effect of which is to break off the The cover.
fibres as quickly as they are detached ; the second, by re-
ducing the set or opening in front of the iron as much as is
compatible with the free passage of the shavings through it.

5To put on

fre^ier.

The wedge
and the

tocket.

i-ig.54. Trying Plane. |.
A stock, B handle, C socket, D D cheeks, E wedge, F cover, 0 iron, II boss.

A rectangular opening in the iron, enlarged and rounded
at one end, admits the screw of the cover, and permits of its
adjustment. The lower end of the
cover is curved, with the concave side
inwards, and it terminates in a sharp
edge. When the screw is tightened
this sharp edge must lie close against
the surface of the iron (see Fig. 55),
If the slightest space is left the shav-
ings will force their way through.
The other side of the cover must be
carefully rounded to permit the shav-
ings to glide freely over it. The edge
of the cover should be very near the
edge of the iron. In finishing up a
surface, and plain jointing, the dis-
tance should be about ^ inch, and about double that distance
in cases where coarser shavings may be removed. The dis-
tance between the socket and the edge of the plane in front
should be about TV inch for fine planing, and not more than
T3B inch for coarser work.

In planes like the smoothing-plane and the trying-plane,
where the iron is narrower than the sole, and is inserted in
the socket from above, the front side of the socket should bo
at right angles with the plane of the sole, and of the same

i'ig. 55. Plane Iron.

A seen from the front J.

B seen from the side \,

a iron, b cover.

breadth as the iron. The inclination of the side of the socket
on which the iron rests has been already indicated ; the other
two sides, i.e., the cheeks, are thicker towards the iron, in order
to give support and steadiness to the wedge, and the sides of
the wedge are inclined towards one another at an angle of
about 8°. If this angle is much greater the wedge fits
loosely ; if it is less it may fit so tightly that it cannot with-
out difficulty be loosened. The wedge, which is forked at
the lower end,
must fit accur-
ately into the
space in the
socket left by the
iron, otherwise
shavings may
gather round its
points (see Fig.
56). These points
require frequent-
ly to be trimmed,
because from re-
peated sharpen-
ing the wedge-
shaped plane-
iron gradually
sinks deeper in
the socket, caus-
ing the wedge to do the same.

Should the sole of the plane become warped, or uneven />Z(ini-,,ff th»
through wear, it must be carefully planed. It follows from soieandin-
the construction of the socket that the opening in front of the Piece ^
iron, after repeated planing, becomes too large. It is usual wood-
to remedy this by inserting in front of the iron a piece of
very hard wood, e.g., ebony, beech, or boxwood (see Fig. 56).
Brass is also used for this purpose. New planes are also

G

Fig. 56. Portion of Plane. Socket. }.

F section through cd showing plane iron, wedge and

piece of wood inserted.

98 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

often furnished with such pieces, in order that the portion in
front of the plane-iron's edge may longer resist the wearing
effect of the shavings.

Putting- in the Plane-Iron or Setting the Plane.

The cover is screwed tightly on the iron, with its sharp
edge at the proper distance from the edge of the iron, which
is then laid in the socket, just deep enough to allow its edge
to lie in the same plane as the surface of the sole. The
wedge is then put in, and secured by a couple of light blows
from the hammer. The plane is then taken in the left hand,
with the thumb resting on the wedge in the socket. The
sole is turned upwards, and the iron is carefully driven in a
little more, so that its edge shows just as much beyond the
plane of the sole as the occasion requires. If it seems crooked,
i.e., if one corner seems lower than the other, this must be
rectified by light taps on its free edges. When its position
appears to be right, the iron is secured by driving the wedge
in more firmly. If, after this, the iron is found to be too low,
it may be made to recede by a blow on the back part of the
stock, or, in the case of the trying-plane, by a blow on the
boss, a piece of hard wood or metal inserted in front of the
socket (see H, Fig. 54). [This boss is not always found in
English planes. It is useful in slojd as indicating the place
to which the blow should be directed, and thus saving the
stock of the plane from injury. — TRS.] The loosened wedge
is then fastened once more, and the position of the iron is
tested by the thickness of the shavings it removes, and raised
or lowered, if necessary, according to the above directions.
When the iron is removed, the plane is held in the way
indicated above.

1. Planes with Flat Soles for the dressing of plane
surfaces.

1. The jack-plane (Fig. 57). To give certainty and ease in
working, the front portion of the stock of a Swedish jack-
plane is furnished with a horn for the hand, and a metal

99

Leiujth of
the jack-
plane.

support of American invention is sometimes placed behind
the iron to prevent the other hand from coming in contact
with its sharp edges. The iron is single, i.e., it has no cover,
and the edge is curved, not square. The Swedish jack-plane
is 9£ inches long. [The English jack-plane is 17 inches
long.— TRS.]

The jack-
plane is used
on rough un-
planed sur-
faces as a pre-
paration for a
finer plane,
when the ob-
ject in view is
more to re-
move thick

Fig. 57. Jack-plane. J.
Shavings ra- A horHi B support for hand, C single iron.

pidly by an iron which cuts deep, than to produce a smooth
surface. As the iron is single, and the opening in front of it
tolerably wide, the jack-plane has a tendency to tear up the
wood ; and it is therefore not advisable to use this tool very
near the surface which is ultimately to be produced.

2. The trying-plane is the largest and most indispensable
of all the planes in use. That it may be wielded steadily it
is provided with a handle for one hand. The iron is double,
i.e., provided with a cover. Its various parts and their con-
struction are fully described in connection with Fig. 54, and
the method of using it is described in Chap. V.

It is employed in shooting, i.e., in producing level surfaces use of the
of all kinds, and it is sometimes used in preparatory work trying plane
instead of the jack-plane, in which case the iron should be
set rather deeper than for shooting. When the trying-plane
is used instead of the jack-plane, the space between the socket
and the edge of the iron in front should be wider than
in the later stages of planing.

100 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

In all planes used for shooting, the surface of the sole must
iron. lie altogether in the same plane ; and the edge of the plane-
iron must be ground quite straight, and at right angles with
the middle line of the iron. As, however, the corners of a
perfectly straight-edge are apt to tear up the fibres by the
side of the iron, or at least to leave a mark on the wood, they
should be very slightly rounded. The sole is sometimes
rubbed with raw linseed oil, that it may glide more smoothly
over the wood.

The trying-plane should always be worked in the direction
of its length, not obliquely to it, as is often improperly done.
tiie trying The trying-plane should be about 20 inches long. [The
?&"«• English trying-plane is 22 inches long. — TRS.]

3. The smoothing-plane (Fig. 58) resembles the jack-
plane, but is broader, and has a double iron.
Vseo/the The smoothing-

tmoothing ~ . -IP,

plane. ^^^r plane is used after

the trying-plane to
produce a very
smooth polished sur-
face. As the shav-
ings it removes must
be extremely fine, the
edge of the cover is

Fig. 58. Smoothing-plane. £. placed very close to

the edsre of the iron, or, as it is called, is " set fine in front."

O

The smoothing plane should be about 9 J inches long. [The

English smoothing-plane
is 7£ inches long. — TRS.]
The smoothing-plane and
planes like it may be fur-
nished with a support for
Fig. 59. Iron Smoothing-plane (American the hand, behind the iron,

pattern;. |. like the jack-plane.

on planes As mentioned above, the stocks of planes are sometimes

101

made of iron. Planes of this kind are used in England, and
to a still greater extent in America. The plane-iron is ad-
justed by means of a screw. Small iron smoothing-planes
are very useful for children, whose hands are not large enough
to hold planes of the ordinary size. A plane of this pattern
is shown in Fig. 59.

4. The rebate-plane (Fig.
60). When the adjacent sur-
faces of a rebate have to be
planed, the ordinary smoothing-
plane does not answer because
the iron is narrower than the
sole. In the rebate-plane the

edge of the iron is as broad as Fig- 60. Rebate-plane. |.
the sole, sometimes even a little broader. The upper part of
the iron is much narrower, and it is wedged into a mortise
in the stock. The iron may be single or double, and the
shavings escape through an opening above the edge.

2. Planes for the Dressing of Curved Surfaces.
1. The round. — This plane is used for hollow grooved
surfaces. It resembles the smoothing-plane and the jack-
plane, but differs from them in the more or less convex sole, — •
the degree of convexity depending on the degree of concavity
it is desired to pro-
duce. The iron
may be single or
double, and the
edge is rounded
to correspond with
the sole. An ordi-
nary jack-plane
may easily be con-
verted into a
round, by round-
ing the sole and the edge of the iron. In working the round

102 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

it must always be driven forward in a line with its length.
In consequence of the shape of the tool, any other method
would destroy the surface required.

[2. The hollow, another plane of this kind, has the sole
concave, and an iron to correspond. It is used in planing
round surfaces. — TRS.]

3. The compass plane. — In this plane the sole is curved
lengthwise, and the iron is an ordinary double one with a
straight edge. It is used in planing hollow curved surfaces,
fcoles of different degrees of curvature are required, according
to the radii of the surface to be planed, but it is not necessary
that the two should accurately correspond. The curvature

of the sole must not be less
^- than the curvature of the

/ T /Jr surface of the work, but it

/ I Mir maybe greater. The differ-

ence, however, if any, must
be slight, because the two
opposing surfaces must
correspond closely enough
to permit of the steady
Fig. 62. Compass Plane. \. guidance of the tool. One

compass-plane, therefore, will not suffice for surfaces of
greatly varying curvature.

American compass-planes of iron, called adjustable planes,
have flexible steel soles, which can be adapted to surfaces of
different degrees of curvature. One plane of this kind is
therefore enough.

3. The Old Woman's Tooth-Plane, and Dove-tail Filletster.
The old woman's tooth-plane is quite unlike the planes
hitherto described. It consists of a block of wood on the inner
side of which is fastened an iron, secured by a thumb-screw.
(Fig. 63). The construction of some planes of this kind is
much simpler ; they consist merely of a parallelepiped piece

TOOLS.

103

of wood, in the middle of which is wedged a straight or curved
iron. In this case the blade of a firmer chisel is often used.

Fig. 63. Old Woman's Tooth-Plane, seen from above and from the side. \.
The dove-tail filletster is like the rebate plane, but differs
from it in having the plane of the sole oblique to the sides of
the stock, instead
of at right angles
to them, and also
in having a rebate
either in a piece
with the sole, or
attached to it for
the purpose of Fig. 64. Dove-tail Filletster, seen frcna the side
guiding the plane and from behind. *.

along the line of the dove-tail rebate to be formed.

In the simple kind of filletster shown in Fig. 64, the rebate
is fixed, but in the more complicated kind (Fig. 65), the
rebate is adjustable to suit deeper or shallower work ; the
latter is also provided with a " cutter" which determines the
line within which the surface is to be planed. This line, in

other cases, must

first be gauged

X^Sy

with a cutting
£jauo"e' otherwise

the plane will
tear the fibres on

that side and
make it uneven.

Fig. 65. Dove-tail Filletster.

104 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

Both these planes are used in making, dove-tail rebates ;
the old woman's tooth in smoothing and levelling the bottom
of the groove into which the dove-tail is shot, and the
filletster in working the dove-tail.

4. The Plough.

When a rectangular groove is made in a piece of wood
the off plough is used. The breadth of the iron must not
exceed the breadth of the groove to be made, and the sole
consists of an iron splint set into the stock. The plough
is furnished with a directing gauge, adjustable by bolts and
wedges or screws. From 6 to 12 irons of different breadths
accompany each plane.

5. The Iron Spokeshave.

The Spokeshave may be included in the same class as the
plane. It is made entirely of iron, with two handles, and is
worked with both hands. The sole is very short — shorter
than the breadth of the iron — and this renders the tool very
useful in forming narrow convex or concave surfaces.

The iron is se-
cured by a screw
and a fixing plate.
The latter also
does duty as a
Fig. 66. Spokeshave. J. cover, and make&

the tool more serviceable (see Fig. 66).

The Spokeshave is a simple, practical, and easily-managed
tool. It is made in several sizes, and the iron may have a
straight edge, or one which curves outwards. The former is
more common.

105

v VU. Files.

The files used in wood-si ojd are the same as those used in
metal work. The file plays, however, a much less important
part in the former than in the latter. In wood-slbjd it is
used chiefly to smooth curved surfaces, the interior of holes
and depressions, and the ends of pieces of wood, in all cases
where edge-tools cannot be used advantageously.

The file consists of a piece of steel, the shape of which may
vary, and on the surface of which sharp ridges have been cut
with a chisel. These ridges are equidistant the one from the
other, and oblique to the length of the file. They form the
file-grade (Fig. 67)— the essential characteristic of the tool.

A single-cut file is cut in one
direction only ; in a double-cut file
the cuts cross one another. Both
cuts incline towards the point of Fi£- 67. File-grade. -?.
the tool, the result of which is that the file acts chiefly when
driven forward, and has little effect when drawn back. The
files used in wood-slb'jd have usually a tapering point. All
files terminate at the other end in a tang which slots into
the handle.

Fig. 68. Files. £.

flat file, b half-round file, c round file.

Files are called triangular, square, flat, round, half-round,
etc., accordino- to the form of the blade in cross-section. Flat

106 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

round, and half -round files are most used in wood-slojd
(Fig. 68). The triangular file is used for sharpening saws
(Fig. 36).

The fineness of the file depends on the number of cuts per
inch. They are usually classified as coarse, medium, fine,
and very fine.

Medium files, about 12 inches long, are the most useful for
working in wood, but coarse files, or rasps, may be used in
the first stages of work.

Method of When in use, the file is grasped by the handle by one hand,
and the wrist or fingers of the other are laid on the point to
produce the required pressure. The file is passed steadily
and slowly backwards and forwards over the work if the
surface desired is level, and with a circular motion if it is
curved. Pressure is exerted only when the file is driven
forward ; when it is drawn back again it is allowed to glide
over the surface. When the work cannot be made fast, the
file must be worked with one hand ; .but, whenever possible,
the work should be secured to the bench, that both hands
may be free to direct and steady the file.

Cleaning the In filing resinous or unseasoned wood, the cuts of the file
are apt to become clogged with sawdust. The file may be
cleaned with a stiff steel brush, but the simplest method of
cleaning a wood file is to dip it in hot water to loosen the
sawdust, and afterwards dry it and brush it. The same file
should never be used for wood and metal.

VIII. Methods of Finishing Work.
1. The Scraper.

This tool consists of a highly-tempered piece of steel (Fig.
69). The edges of the scraper are

f^ |B generally straight, but sometimes the

fkeicraper • ends are rounded or hollowed to suit

1 concave or convex surfaces. The two

longest parallel edges are ground at

Fig. 69. Scraper. J. right angles to the sides. When the

TOOLS. 107

scraper is sharpened, it is placed at the edge of a plank,
and a very hard piece of steel is drawn against its edge as
nearly as possible on the plane of the plank. This, when
repeated several times backwards and forwards, levels the
sharp edge of the scraper, which is raised up again by having
the steel once, steadily but not too heavily, passed along it.
During this the steel is held almost perpendicular, with its
upper end inclined very slightly towards the upper side of
the plank. The raised edge of the scraper now forms a fine
edge, which takes hold of the wood when drawn across its
surface, and removes minute shavings. When it becomes
blunt, it must be sharpened once more, and as its edge, after
repeated sharpening, becomes uneven, it must finally be re-
ground. A worn saw-file, the cut of which has been carefully
ground off, and the edges slightly rounded, or a firmer chisel,
may be used.

The scraper should be held easily in the hand. In polish- Method &
ing a plane surface, the tool should be taken in both hands, temper.
The scraper should incline towards the surface of the work
(see Chap. V., page 142), and should be worked always in the
direction towards which it leans, and with the grain of the
wood, but somewhat obliquely to the direction of the fibres.
Towards the end, pressure should be diminished, to produce a
finer polish. Care must be taken lest the cutting edge
become ragged from careless "setting," and scratch the
surface. Should this be so, the scraper must be re-ground,
and then sharpened.

2. Sand-Paper.
Sand-vaver is made of paper with a coating of finely- sand-PaPtr

r f x . . made of flint

ground flint, glass, or quartz glued on to it. Ine grains on aildofgiasi,
the same paper are always of the same size, and, according to
the finer or coarser quality, the paper is numbered from 0 to
rough 2.

[Sand-paper made of flint is generally used in Sweden.
In England, glass-paper is considered the best. — TRS.]

108 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

When in use, the sand-paper should be torn off in pieces
of convenient size, and a bit laid on the plane surface of a
piece of cork or wood, f -inch thick, and of a good size to be
held in the hands. If a sufficiently thick piece of cork can-
not be obtained, a thin piece should be glued on a piece of
wood, or, failing cork, a piece of card-board will answer the
purpose. This serves the purpose of a soft rubber (wood
alone being too hard), and gives the necessary support to the
sand-paper, which, used in this way, acts much in the same
manner as the file, and may be considered to all intents and

Sand-paper ' J

really a tool, purposes as a tool.

Sand-paper may be used without a rubber only in the
case of concave or convex surfaces, where there are no sharp
edges. Care must be taken in finishing off not to work the
paper in the direction of the fibres, but either at right angles
or obliquely to it, in order to produce a smooth surface. Just
at the last, the paper may be passed once or twice in the
same line as the fibres, to remove any ridges or marks which
may have been produced. For similar reasons, the paper last
used should be finer than that first employed, in order to
secure a perfectly smooth surface.

Sand-paper should never be used to form or smooth up the
surface of objects. The knife, the file, the smoothing-plane,

sand-paper the scraper, etc. are the proper tools for this purpose. Sand-
paper should be used only in finishing off, and when the use

sparingly, of the smoothing-plane is understood, it is not much needed
for plane surfaces. In the case of objects with curved
surfaces, on the other hand, it is almost indispensable.

Finishing off with sand-paper should never be done in a
thoughtless, mechanical way. To attain a satisfactory result
the greatest attention is requisite.

IX. Brace and Bits.

Bits of different kinds are used in making round holes.
Bits for wood are made of a special kind of steel, one end of
which forms the cutting portion of the tool, and the other is

TOOLS.

109

wedge-shaped, that it may be securely fastened into a handle
or brace, by means of which it revolves. In working, the
brace is always turned to the right, and the bits are made to
cut in the same direction. The edge of the bit is designed to
make its way into the wood without great pressure, and
without risk of splitting it. The bit must work without
hindrance from the shavings ; otherwise
it will become hot from friction, and
boring will be difficult. A good bit cuts
like a knife, detaches smooth spiral
shavings, and becomes only moderately
warm, even when worked quickly.

The brace may vary in construction.
Fig. 70 shows a very strong Swedish
brace made of iron. The upper end, or
tang of the bit, forms a square truncated
pyramid, which slots into a hole in the
brace socket, and is fastened by a spring.
Fig. 71 shows an American brace, also
made of iron. It has a screw adjustable
socket, into which the bit is secured. The
tang of the bit may be of any form, pro-
vided it is somewhat rectangular.

Eig. 70. Swedish Brace.

Fig. 71. American Brace ; section of screw adjustable socket, or bit holder,

110

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

The bits in most general use are quill-bits and centre-bits.
Small quill-bits are called pin-bits.

A U C D E F C

Fig. 72. A, Auger-bit. B, Centre-bit. C, Quill-bit. D, Hole-rimer drill.
E, Screwdriver bit. F and G, Counter-sink drills. £.

1. The quill-bit (Fig. 72, G} is gouge-shaped, with the end
curved like the point of a spoon. Unlike the centre-bit, it
has no middle point, and it is therefore more difficult to gauge
to holes of any given size, especially if the latter are large.

This bit is better than the centre-bit for boring end pieces.
Quill-bits are made in various sizes, from those adapted for
holes of rx5 inch in diameter to those suitable for holes of
1£ inch in diameter. The smallest kind, the pin-bit, is most
used in wood slojd. A set of pin-bits includes from 8 to 10,
varying in size from | inch to \ inch.

2. The Centre-bit.

1- The ordinary centre-bit (Fig. 72, B, and 73, B) has a flat

blade, the lower portion of which is broader than the upper,
as is shown in the illustrations. In the middle of the lower
edge is the centre-point a, and at one side is the cutter b. In

TOOLS.

Ill

Fig. 73. A, Portion of Auger-
bit. £, Portion of Centre-bit.
aa Centre-point, 666 Cutter, ccc Lip.

boring, the cutter makes a circular incision corresponding
to the circumference of the hole, and thus determines its
diameter, prevents the wood from splitting, and facilitates
the removal of shavings and sawdust by the lip c, the edge
of which is horizontal to the point
and oblique to the blade, and which
cuts at right angles to the cutter.
The centre point is longer than the
cutter, which again cuts deeper than
the lip. In sharpening the centre-
bit, which may be done with a small
half-round file, care must be taken
that the edge of the cutter is on the
outer side, and the edge of the lip
on the under side. A set of bits should contain 8 to 12 centre-
bits, from £ inch to 1 inch broad.

2. The auger (Fig. 72, A) belongs to the same class. In
boring with the bits previously described, it is necessary to
exercise a certain degree of pressure, but the auger works its w°y '"
way into the wood by means of the conical screw which forms auger «<,/•**
its centre point, and after the screw has once started all that
is needed is to make it revolve. The auger is besides fur-
nished with a cutter and a lip on both sides of the screw.
(See Fig. 73, A.)

Above the cutting portion it is spiral in form, and thus we
have a double spiral with sharp edges. This gives plenty of
room for the sawdust and shavings which are worked out of
the hole without the removal of the auger. The American
augers are the best. A set includes 6 to 12 pieces, from The best
T:V inch to 1 inch.

Fig. 74.— Expansion bit. i

112

HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

Adjustable
orex

Screwdriver
bit, counter-
link drill,
ami hole-
rimer.

The expansion bit (Fig. 74) is of American construction.
"Within certain limits it admits of holes of different sizes
being bored with one and the same bit. Its point, lip, and
cutter are tolerably like those of the auger, but it is furnished
with two loose cutters, which may be screwed in to suit the
diameter desired. The adj ustable cutter does the work both of
lip and cutter. The expansion bit makes holes with remark-
ably even surfaces, and with two different sizes it is possible
to bore holes varying in diameter from £ inch to 3 inches.

A screw-driver bit (Fig. 72, E), two or three counter-sink
drills (Fig. 72, F and G), and a couple of square or hexagonal
hole-rimers (Fig. 72, D) are usually included in
a complete set of bits. The counter-sink drill
is used to produce a conical hole in wood or
metal, suitable for sinking screw-heads. The
rimer enlarges holes in thin metal plates, e.g.,
screw holes in hinge-plates.

3. The Bradawl (Fig. 75). This tool consists
of a steel bit TV inch to £ inch thick, and 2 inches
long. Its point is like that of an awl, or it may be
chisel-pointed. The bit is secured in the handle
by a screw-socket. Several bits of different
sizes belong to the tool, and the handle, which
is hollow, serves as a case for them. The brad-
awl is used to bore holes for sprigs, nails, etc.
When holes are bored with the chisel-pointed
bit, the edge is placed across the grain of the
Fig. 75^ Brad- wood, and pressure is exerted in this direction
to prevent the splitting of the wood.

awl. 4.

X. The Mallet, the Hammer, the Hand Vice, Pincers,
and Screwdriver.

The Mallet (Fig. 70) is made of hard, strong wood, pre-
ferably of figured beech. It is used for striking tools with
wooden handles, because the hard hammer in such cases

TOOLS. 113

would not only do damage, but would not serve the purpose
so well.

The Hammer (Fig. 77) con-
sists of a piece of steel with a
hole for the handle, called the
eye. One end is cylindrical and
terminates in a flat surface,
called the face; the other end,
which is called the pane, is
wedge-shaped, with a rounded
edge. That the handle may be
quite firm, the eye widens at the
sides, and wedges driven hard
into the end of the handle cause
it to fill up the cavity entirely. Fig. 76. Mallet. £.

Fig. 77. Ham-
mer. £.

There are various kinds of pincers, but only those used
in wood slojd need be named here. Pincers have two steel
arms rivetted together. The rivet divides the arms into two
unequal portions,
the longer, or
handles, and the
shorter, or jaws.

The ordinary
pincers have Fig. 78. Pincers. $.

short, broad, sharply curved jaws, and are used to extract
nails, etc.

The wire-cutter resembles the preceding, but is slighter in
make, and its •
arms are curved
and its jaws
sharper. It is
used to snap off
pieces of wire, tin- Fig. 79. Wire-cutter. 3.

tacks, etc. Thfe jaws of the flat pliers are flat on the inner

114

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

Fig. 80. Flat-jawed Pliers.

Fig. 81- Round-jawed Pliers.

Shape of the
screwdriver.

Fig. 83.
Screwdrivei.

i

a the point,
from the side.

side, which is file-
cut to enable
them to take fast
hold of small
pieces of metal to
be filed, bent, &c.
In the round
pliers the jaws
are more or less
conical in shape,
for the bending of
I- wire, etc.

The hand-vice is not so
much employed in slojd-
carpentry as in metal slb'jd.
Its chief use is to secure
small pieces of metal for
filing. It may be held in
the hand, or, after the piece
of metal has been made
fast, it may itself be screwed
into a hand-screw or to the
bench, that both hands may
be free for the work of
filing.

The screwdriver is used for driving in screws,
and is made of hard steel. At the end it is bev-
elled to a thick point, which varies from ^-inch
to yV-inch in thickness, depending on the size of
the screw for which it is to be used.

The bevelled edges should be parallel, and the
point should be as little as possible like a wedge
in shape, but should lie flat in the slit of the nail*
otherwise it will have a tendency to slip and
become chipped.

Hand-vice.

TOOLS. 115

E. The Grinding- and Sharpening of Tools.

Work must never be done ivith, blunt or badly-set tools.
Tools must always be kept sharp and in good order.

These rules should aliuays be kept in mind. Many a
slojder toils in the sweat of his brow with a blunt saw, or a
badly set blunt plane, rather than take time to put his tool
in order, though tools in good condition save hours of work,
much unnecessary trouble, and needless vexation. Blunt
tools demand more strength and exertion than sharp ones,
and seldom, if ever, produce such good results. The rules
given above are especially important in the case of children,
for whom work ought not to be made unnecessarily difficult.
The sharpening of edge-tools is performed on the grind-
stone and the oilstone. The method of sharpening a saw has
already been described (pp. SO, 81).

The ordinary Grindstone consists of a circular slab of
sandstone, which rotates oa an axle, and is provided with a
handle for turning. It is supported on a grindstone stand
or bench. Below the stone is a wooden well, lined with zinc,
partially filled with water, into which the stone is sunk
about one inch when in use. The stone should not be too
fine in the grain or too hard.

The grindstone should never be used dry, because the steel care of the
does not " catch " well unless the stone is wet, and the friction yrtndst°1ie-
on a dry stone " burns " the steel and makes the edge of the
tool soft. Exposure to the sun for any length of time makes
the stone too hard, while prolonged immersion of any portion
of it in water renders that portion soft. Consequently it
wears faster, and the stone becomes uneven or eccentric.
The stone should therefore be kept dry except when in use.

A frame-work attached to the stand prevents splashing
when the stone rotates by directing the water down into the
well, and splashing may still further be avoided by fastening
a thick piece of stuff in front so that it trails upon the stone

116 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

and absorbs a portion of the surplus water. The stone must
always be turned tmvards the worker and towards the edge
of the tool, which must be moved steadily, and with equal
pressure from side to side, across the whole breadth of the
stone, to prevent the formation of scratches or depressions on
its circumference. The bevelled edge produced by grinding
must present either a flat or a concave surface to the convex
surface of the stone. It must never be convex. The con-
straight cave form of the bevelled edge is advantageous, because it
materially lightens the final sharpening on the oilstone.
The edge must also be quite straight unless a curved edge is
actually required.

As it is difficult, especially for the inexperienced, to hold

the steel steadily enough against the stone, a grinding sup-

iccurate Por^ nas been invented. Such a support of American make

winding. }s shown in Fig. 84. It consists of an iron frame into which

the plane-iron or the chisel is screwed. A small wheel below

Fig. b4. Grinding-supporl, or grinding-rest. £.

the frame revolves upon the grindstone, and the desired angle
on the edge of the tool is obtained by fastening it in with
the edge at a shorter or longer distance from the frame. By
means of this simple contrivance even an inexpert pupil is
able to grind a plane-iron correctly.

A very common fault in grinding is to make the angle
which the bevelled edge makes with the face of the tool too

TOOLS. 117

great, i.e., to make the edge too thick. This is often done
by beginners in their haste to be relieved from grinding.

The tool must be ground till a raw edge appears, i.e., the The raw
very thin " film " or hair produced by the grindstone's remov- edge-
ing the very edge of the steel. This, in its turn, is removed
by the oilstone.

Sharpening with the oilstone is necessary, because the edge
produced by the coarse-grained grindstone is neither fine
enough nor even enough for immediate use.

The oilstone is a
slab of specially fine-
grained stone. "Wash-
ita" and "Arkansas"
stones from America, The best

and " Turkey " stones °Ustone*-
Fig. 85. Oilstone and case. £. ,, , rv,r , ,

are the best. [Welsh

oilstones are less expensive, and can thoroughly be recom-
mended.— TRS.] The oilstone should be 8 inches long and 2 £
inches broad, and it should be kept in a wooden box with a
cover (Fig. 85). " Arkansas " stone is very hard and close-
grained, and it " takes well," i.e., it acts almost like a very
fine file on the steel. The colour is yellowish-white. These
stones last a long time, but are expensive to buy.

When in use, the oilstone should be moistened with veget-
able oil. The addition of a little paraffin is an improvement. Method of
The tool is held in both hands, and the bevelled edge is applied ^st'one*
closely to the stone in such a way that, while the bevel is
altogether in contact with the stone, the edge presses rather
more heavily on it, and this angle of inclination must be
steadily maintained to prevent the edge from becoming
rounded. The steel is now drawn over the stone with a slow,
steady, backward and forward motion. When this has been
repeated often enough, it is turned over and passed once over
the stone with the face flat. The worker must not confine
his operations to the middle of the stone, but must use the
whole of the surface.

118 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

[This is contrary to the English method of grinding, the
principle that no wire edge should be formed holding good.
— TBS.]

An oilstone slip, i.e., a piece of the same kind of stone as
the oilstone, but smaller and thinner, and rounded at the
edges, is required for the sharpening of gouges, spoon-irons, etc.
A sharp Sharpening must be continued until the edge itself is not
visible when held up against the light, or until it no longer
appears white and rounded. Its sharpness is tested by touch
ing it lightly with the finger.

F. The Tool Cupboard.

For the benefit of those who wish to procure a tool cup-
board, complete drawings of one are given in Plate XI. It
is so arranged that every tool has a fixed, easily observed
place, in order that the absence of any may be readily dis-
covered when the tools are laid past. Tools must further be
so arranged that when one is taken out another is not dis-
placed ; and all sharp edges must be protected.

Any alterations in the size of the cupboard, required by a
larger or smaller stock of tools, could easily be made.

119

CHAPTER IV.

JOINTING.

Different parts of articles are connected or jointed partly
by glue, nails, or screius, and partly by the special adaption
of the parts themselves, as in mortising and dove-tailing.

A. Glueing.

The simplest way of jointing two pieces of wood is to
introduce between them a connecting medium in liquid form,
i.e., glue.

Glue is made from the refuse, clippings, etc., of tanneries
and glove manufactories. After being subjected to a boiling
process, these materials are reduced to a viscous fluid, which
solidifies on cooling into a stiffish jelly, which is then cut
into thin slices and dried upon nets stretched on frames.

Good glue is known by its light brown or brownish yellow
colour; its sparkling transparency; its hardness and elas-
ticity ; by the way it breaks off in flakes and whitens in the
line of fracture ; and by its power of resistance to the damp-
ness of the air. It swells if steeped in cold water, but does
not melt even aftei one or two days' immersion. The ulti-
mate test of good glue is, however, its cementing power.

1. The Preparation of Glue.

The cakes of glue, either entire or in pieces, are first
soaked in cold water. After the glue swells it is put in a
glue-pot (Fig. 86) and melted by heat. The glue-pot consists
of two pans usually made of cast-iron or tin-plate. The
larger of these, the outside pan, is, when in use, half filled

120 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

with water, and the smaller one, the inside pan or glue-pot
proper, in which the glue is placed, rests upon a rim or flange
round its mouth. This inner pan should always be lined
with tin. The water in the outer pan prevents the glue from
burning, (an accident which must always be carefully
avoided), and as the contents of the glue-pot are surrounded
by warm water, they may be kept fluid and tit for use a con-
siderable time after the pan has been removed from the fire.
If glue is wanted in a hurry, the cakes may be put in a
towel or a similar piece of stuff' to keep the glue from being
scattered about, and broken to pieces with a hammer. The
pieces are then put into the glue-pot and stirred during boil-
ing, to prevent unmelted glue sticking to the bottom. This
mode of preparation is quite as good as the preceding.

Fig. 86. Glue Pot Outside Pan. \.

(inside pan) and Brush.

Glue is applied with a strong brush, of which there should
be two sizes, one for large surfaces and one for small sur-
faces, e.g., mortise holes, etc.

Liquid Glue. —The addition of acetic acid to melted glue
prevents putrefaction, and, without lessening its cementing
power, keeps it liquid at ordinary temperatures. " Liquid
glue " may be made as follows : — Four parts of good glue are
melted in four parts diluted acetic acid, in the outer pan, or

JOINTING. 121

on the top of an oven. One part spirits of wine and a small
quantity of alum are then added, and the mixture is kept in
a wide-mouthed bottle, the cork of which has a hole to admit
the brush.

This glue remains liquid at + 14° to 18° C., and does not
solidify until + 8° to 12° C. ; it is very convenient for small
articles, as it is always ready and in good condition, and its
cementing power is quite equal to that of glue prepared in
the ordinary way. Its only drawback is that it dries more
slowly.

In the case of articles exposed to moisture, the addition of
10 per cent, of boiled linseed oil is advantageous. The glue
to which it is added should be hot and strong, and should be
stirred till the varnish has been thoroughly mixed. The
wood to which this ivood-cement is applied should be dry and
warm, and the pieces should be firmly pressed together until
the glue dries.

2.. Glueing.

The process of glueing is very simple, but it must be care-
fully performed to ensure a strong inconspicuous joint. The
general rule holds good that the layer of glue shall be so
tliin that the seam can hardly be seen, and this presupposes
that the pieces fit accurately (see page 152), that they are
kept in sufficiently close contact while the glue is drying,
and that the glue itself does not cool before they are put
properly together.

To keep the glue from cooling, the wood should be warmed
as well as the glue, and the operations of applying the latter, the
putting the pieces together and applying the required pressure,
must be rapidly performed. Generally speaking, it is suffi-
cient if one of the wooden surfaces is warmed : thus in dove-
tailing and slotting the pins only are warmed; in blocking,
the blocks only, etc.

The glue, which must be neither too thick nor too thin, is Laying m
laid evenly and quickly, in as small a quantity as possible, the9lut-
over the surface of the wood with the brush.

122 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

In the case of pins for mortising, the glue should be thicker
than for jointing boards, and the glue is generally applied to
the hole as well as to the previously warmed pin, though
sometimes only to the latter.

Screwing together is performed either in the bench, which
is the simplest method, or in hand-screws, or in a press with
wedges. The article must remain under pressure till the
glue dries. If the glue is too thick or the wood cold, or if
the glue cools before screwing up, the joint will show, and
will not be good. A joint of this kind does not look well,
and is less durable than one properly glued together.
Making a The bench pegs or the hand-screw should always be in
joint. order before glueing, to save time. Just before the final
tightening of the screw, the work should be carefully ex-
amined to see if the parts are in their right places. If not
they must be made to fit. If the staves of a barrel are not
in the same plane, the screw must not be loosened, but the
stave which is not flush must be hammered into place, and
the screws tightened. The work must not again be disturbed
till the glue has hardened.

In screwing up finished pieces of work, bits of wood must
always be put between the work and the bench-pegs or the
point of the screw, to prevent marks. When large plane
surfaces are glued together, it is necessary to use several
cramps to obtain strong enough pressure.

Removal of The glue which exudes from the joints of objects which
superfluous arg fi^ghg^ off before glueing, e.g., the inside of a drawer,
must be carefully wiped off with a clean sponge or rag dipped
in warm water immediately after glueing together, before it
completely dries. Care must be taken not to wet the wood
unnecessarily.

The better the glue penetrates the pores of the wood, the
stronger the joint. Consequently, glue holds better in loose-
fibred than in close-grained wood, which presents a hard,
smooth surface. Broad surfaces of the latter description are
roughened a little before glueing, by drawing a coarse file

JOINTING. 123

over them.* Glue which dries slowly is stronger than that
which dries quickly.

A well-fitting joint made with good glue is so strong that, strong and
when long boards -are joined together, the wood itself gener- weak <jlue
illy gives way before the joint. This, however, is not the'70'"
case when end pieces are joined together, or when the wood
is very hard or close-grained.

Two pieces of wood may be glued together without cramp-
ing or screwing together, e.g., a block of wood on a plank.
The block only is warmed, but glue is laid upon both. The
former is then pressed upon the latter, and rubbed backwards
and forwards to get rid of the superfluous glue, until it be-
gins to adhere. Care roust now be taken that it is in its
right place, and is not further disturbed. The two pieces
adhere by atmospheric pressure.

B. Nailing.

Sprigs of different lengths and thicknesses are generally
used for nailing together slb'jd-work, but for large or heavy
articles cut or beat nails are employed, because their uneven
surface is more tenacious, and thus gives greater strength to
the joint. Before the nail is hammered in, a hole should be
bored with the pin-bit or the bradawl to prevent splitting.
The diameter of this hole should not exceed two-thirds of
that of the thickest part of the nail, and the nail should be hit
straight on the head, to prevent it from bending or going in
crooked.

The firm hold of the nail in the wood depends partly on The strength
the more or less rough nature of its surface, partly on its ° nai 'J0tnl
length and thickness, partly on the kind of wood, and partly
on the direction of the nail in relation to the fibres, i.e.,
whether it is driven into a long board or into an end piece.
The strongest joint is made with beat nails in a cross piece ;

* There is a special tool for this purpose used in veneering, &c., called the
" toothing-plane." — TKS.

124 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

the weakest with beat sprigs in an end piece. The pre-
liminary boring does not affect the hold of the nail in the
wood unless it is too deep or too wide. A hole half the
depth and half the diameter of the thickest part of the nail
exercises no noticeable influence on the strength of the joint.
Sometimes it is necessary to sink the nail under the plane
nail. "' of the surface, that it may not present any obstacle to
smoothing up or finishing off the work. After the nail has
been hammered in by the ordinary method, a small steel
punch about 4 inches long and £ inch thick, tapering to a
thick point rather less in diameter than the head of the
nail, is used to sink it. The punch is placed on the head of
the nail, and hammered till the head sinks to the depth re-
quired.

Wooden pins are sometimes used for jointing. They are
made of straight, split wood, and have four sides, often with
bevelled corners, tapering slightly to a blunt point. They
are driven into holes previously bored which their bevelled
corners enable them to fit closely without splitting the wood.
Glue is often added to strengthen their hold. These wooden
pins are called doiuels.

C. Screwing together.

jointing Wood-Screws, i.e., metal screws with thin, deep, sharp-
•OTwT0* e<3ged tap-worms, are used for screw-joints. Screws which
are gimlet-pointed penetrate the wood more easily than
others.

The wood-screws used in screw-joints are of different
kinds, with half-round, curtailed conical, or square heads. '
The two first only are used in wood-slb'jd. In both, the head
of the nail is furnished with a slit for receiving the screw-
driver.

JOINTING. 125

When A (Fig. 87) is used, the head of the
screw remains above the surface of the wood.
In joints made with B, the head is made to lie
level ivith the surface, for which purpose the
hole bored for its reception is afterwards
counter-sunk. Wood-screws are made in many
lengths from about £ inch to 3 inches, and of
varying thickness. They are very generally
used, and are especially useful for articles
^H,1f which require sometimes to be taken apart

A with half-round,

B with conical head, and put together again.

In consequence of their peculiar form, screws give a much strength of
stronger and firmer joint than nails, which hold the pieces**
together simply by friction. A screw cannot be drawn out
without unscrewing, unless the wood around it is cut away.
The hole bored for the reception of the screw should be as
deep as the length of the unwormed portion.

D. Jointing by means of the formation
of the parts of the joint.

The names only of the various kinds of jointing of this
nature are given below. A description will be found in
Chapter V.

1. Halving.

2. Mitreing.
S. Slotting.

4. Mortise and Tenon-jointing.

5. Groove-jointing.

6. Dove-tailing.

7. Hooping.

126

FIFTH
E X E R

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

Long cut.

To cut a piece of wood in the direction of
the length of the fibres ; otherwise to
cut with the grain.

This exercise is the simplest of all the exer-
cises in Slb'jd, and consists in cutting
the wood so as to produce an approxi-
mate level, true, and straight surface.

Cross cut.

Fig. 88.

To cut a piece of wood at right angles to
the fibres.

This exercise is rather more difficult than
the first. It is accomplished by " truer
cutting," as the fibres are not in this
case torn apart, but cut through.

Fig. 80.

CHAPTER.
C I S E S.

Tools required.

127

Directions for Work.

Knife.

Knife.

Hold the knife in the right hand and the wood in the left,
as shown in accompanying sketch ; and always cut
away from the body, keeping the flat surface of the
blade as close to the wood as possible, to prevent the
edge running into the wood too deeply, and making
successive bold slices until the surface is even.

To steady and strengthen the hand which holds the wood,
and to render the exercise easier, the piece of wood can
be rested upon a board laid on the bench.

Hold the knife as in Ex. 1, but make a V shaped cut into
the wood from each side, cutting deeper and deeper
until the cuts meet in the centre, then pare the end
level. For the proper position of the body, see Plate I.

128

fr

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

3 Oblique cut.

Bevel cut

Sawing off.

Convex cut.

To cut a piece of wood obliquely to the
fibres.

This exercise is simply a variation of Ex. 1
and 2. The cut is not made with the
grain, nor at right angles to it, but
diagonally across it. Its name de-
scribes it.

To bevel the edge of a rectangular block
of wood both with and against the
fibres ; e.g., a square block of wood
could be made octagonal by bevelling
the edges.

To saw off a piece of wood at right angles
to the fibres. This exercise in Sweden
is accomplished with a broad-webbed
bow-saw, shown in Fig. 38 (p. 83).

The same exercise in England would be
done with a hand-saw, shown in Fig.
41 (p. 85).

To cut a piece of wood so as to produce a
convex curve.

This exercise brings in more delicate hand-
ling of the tool than any of the pre-
ceding exercises. The cuts are shorter,
;md the movements all from the wrist.

Fig. 90.

129

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Knife.

Knife.

Broad webbed

bow-saw.
(Hand-saw).

Knife.

The knife is held as in Ex. 1 and 2, and the position of the
body is as in Plate I. The direction of the cut is
shown in Fig. 89 c—d.

Hold the knife and proceed as in Ex. 1.

The bow-saw is held as shown in Plate II., with this dif-
ference, that the wood is fixed into the vice crosswise,
instead of uprightly. The saw is worked with long
strokes parallel with the edge of the bench, backwards
and forwards, with no more weight in a downward direc-
tion on the blade than is sufficient to keep it in its place.
The final strokes must be made cautiously, because
the wood may easily be split. The teeth of the saw
must always point away from the worker.

The English hand-saw is worked much in the same way.

See Plate I. for position of worker, and method of holding
knife ; and Fig. 90 (a — b), for example of curve. The
knife must be used in the direction of the arrow a — 6.

130

£ c
& i

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

Long -sawing.
(Rip-sawing.)

8.

To saw up a piece of wood lengthwise.

This exercise in Sweden is performed with
a bow-saw, Fig. 38 (p. 83). In Eng-
land the same exercise is done with a
hand rip-saw, Fig. 41 (p. 85). It is
more difficult than cross-sawing (Ex.
5), because the saw is apt to leave the
mark and run between the fibres.

To plane a piece of wood, the surface of
which is narrower than the plane iron.

This exercise is considered the easiest exer-
cise in planing, for this reason, that a
narrow surface of not more than 1 in.
or 1^ in. wide at the very most is
easier to plane than a surface above
2 in. wide. (The width of the plane
iron varies from 2 in. to 2| in. in width.)

Fig. 91.

131

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Broad webbed

bow-saw.
(Hand rip-saw.)

Trying-plane or
English jack-
plane.

For the method of execution with the bow-saw, see Plate
II., which shows the wood fixed in the proper position
in the bench-vice, the right position of the body, and
the right handling of the tool. The saw is moved
backwards and forwards in that position.

The same position applies to the use of the English hand-
saw, and the left hand holds the wood in the same way.
The only difference is that the hand-saw has no frame,
but simply a handle by which it is gripped.

It will be noticed that the bow-saw is held by the lower
part of the frame near the blade, and that the feet of
the worker are at right angles and a little way apart.

The piece of wood is fastened between the bench pegs, so
that it lies firmly and evenly upon the bench. The
plane, after being carefully set (i.e., the cutting edge of
the plane iron projecting just the right distance through
the sole of the plane), is held as shown in Fig. 91. It
is moved backwards and forwards over the surface of
the wood, and regulated by the difference in the pres-
sure given by one or other of the hands ; e.g., at the
start of the stroke with the plane the pressure is on the
front of the plane, but as the stroke is finishing the
pressure is transferred to the right hand, which holds
the handle.

This keeps the plane horizontal and level on the wood.
The pressure with the left hand at the start prevents
the heel of the plane dropping, and the pressure with
the right hand at the finish of the stroke prevents the
toe of the plane falling.

For position of worker see Plate III.

1'32

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

9.

Squaring.

To prove whether two plane surfaces in a
piece of wood are at right angles.

The accompanying sketch (Fig. 92) simply
shows the position of the square in
testing for a right angle. But before
this the square has been used in two
different ways to test the broad flat
side of the wood first planed. Before
the edge can truly be at right angles
with the side, the side itself must be
level and true, and in testing this the
square is turned up and the outer
edge of the blade is held on the wood,
first lengthwise, and then crosswise.
It follows, therefore, that the broader
surface of the wood is planed first,
and when this surface is true, the
edge is planed, and it is then that this
special exercise (No. 9) comes in.

Fig. 92.

133

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Try square.

The inner edge of the stock of the square is held against
the side of the wood first planed. The blade rests on
the edge, and is moved from end to end of the wood.
The test is to observe that the stock and the blade of
the square fit exactly on to these two surfaces through-
out their length.

Hold the wood and the square as shown in Fig. 92, but
towards the light, and keeping the stock of the square
firmly against the side of the wood, and the blade
on the edge, and move from end to end.

134

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

10

11

Gauging.

To set off a desired thickness or width
parallel to the edges of a piece of wood
with the marking-gauge.

The tool for this exercise is shown in Figs.
21 and 22 (p. 72). It is made of
two pieces of wood, one piece sliding
through the other. At one end of
the thin piece, which is called "the
spindle," is a sharp point of steel, and
this point scratches a line into the
wood at whatever distance it is set
from the stock of the gauge, as will be
seen in Fig. 93.

BoriTig with the
quill-bit.

Fig. 93.

To bore a hole of small diameter.

The special kind of bit used for this exer-
cise bores both well and quickly across
the grain of the wood only, cutting
the fibres instead of tearing them apart.
For boring with the grain, a bit known
as a " nose-bit " should be used. This
differs from the quill-bit in having at
its extremity a transverse cutter which
enables it to be used for boring in the
direction of the grain.

135

Tools required.

Marking-gauge.

Brace and quill-
bit (Fig. 72 e.,
p. 110).

Directions for Work.

JSaas method of gauging. The gauge is held as shown in
Fig. 93, with the first finger and thumb of the right
hand on the stock of the gauge, and the other three
fragers round the spindle. The stock (or " fence ") of
the gauge is held steadily and closely to the faced-up
sides of the work, parallel to which the line is to be
made, and pulled backwards towards the worker.

l^he English method is to hold the gauge in exactly the same
way, but to move it away from the worker. It is
generally easier, however, for young boys to gauge
towards them.

The proper position for boring with this tool is shown in
Plate IV. The head of the brace is held in the palm of
the left hand, and the crank of the brace is held by the
middle in the right hand as shown, and it is turned i'rom
right to left. It will be observed from the plate that
the worker can only see that the tool is boring straight
in the direction in which he is facing. It is therefore
necessary, in order to bore a straight hole, that he should
assume a second position at right angles to the former.
This should be done from time to time in boring through
a thick piece of wood, i.e., a few revolutions should be
made in one position, and then a few in another.

136

-

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

Face planing.

13

Filing.

To plane a piece of wood, the surface of
which is broader than the plane iron.

The difference between this exercise and
Ex. 8 is that the plane is not wide
enough to take a shaving off the full
width of the wood at one stroke, so
that several consecutive strokes have
to be made, and the position of the
plane changed each time across the
surface of the wood.

To dress up rough surfaces by filing.
Several different kinds of wood files are
used, as shown on page 105, Fig. 68.

14

Boring ^vith the
centre-bit.

To bore a comparatively large hole.

This exercise presents no great difficulty
beyond that of boring straight, and
the difference in pressure required
between soft and hard woods.

137

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Trying-plane,
or English
jack-plane.

File.

Brace and
Centre-bit.

The position of the worker is shown in Plate III., and the
handling of the tool in Fig. 91.

The working is explained under Ex. 8. But in planing a
broad piece of wood care has to be taken that the surface
is made perfectly " true," and in order to test the truth
of a broad surface the plane is laid across it ; or, better
still, two pieces of wood called " winding lathes " are
used, which are shown and explained in Fig. 31,
page 77.

When the work to be filed is flat, it is invariably fixed in the
bench-vice, and the handle of the tool held in the right
hand, the point in the left. The cutting edges of the
file only come into play during the forward movement,
and care should be taken in marking this movement
that one hand does not press more heavily on the tool
than the other. The left hand has the advantage at
the commencement of the stroke, the right hand at the
finish. The pressure should be taken off in drawing
the file back. In filing up small cylindrical surfaces,
the work should simply rest on the bench, and be turned
round and round to the action of the tool. The bench-
vice should be used when concave and convex curves
over the edge of boards require filing.

The general direction of the stroke of the file is obliquely
to the fibres of the wood, varying with the kind of
work and the character of the surface to be dressed.

For method of working see exercise No. 11.

138

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

15

16

Convex-sawing.

Concave cut.

Bevelling.

To saw out a curve following a circular or
elliptical line.

This special exercise is executed with a
turn saw, Fig. 40, page 85 ; and is
confined to work of a simple convex
character, e.g., the cutting of such
curves as are found in ellipses and
circles.

To cut out a concave shape.

Figure 94 clearly shows this exercise.

Fig. 94.

To bevel the edge of a piece of wood.

This exercise occurs wherever the corner
of a piece of wood has to be planed
off; e.g., if out of a rectangular block
of wood an octagonal prism had to be
made, the edges would have to be
bevelled or taken off.

139

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Turn-saw.

Knife.

Trying-plane.

The work is fixed in the bench-vice, and the saw worked
backwards and forwards as described in Exercise No. 5,
and shewn in Plate II., except that in this case both
hands grasp the frame of the saw. The cut is generally
made during the forward movement. In order to saw
to the curve marked out, the frame of the turn-saw in
working is gradually turned in the direction of the
curve. It must in no case be forced, but should work
easily and freely.

Fig. 94 shows this exercise being worked on the edge of a
piece of wood, and just shows the knife as it has been
pulled from the right side of the curve down to its
lowest edge. To complete the operation the knife must
be turned round and worked in exactly the opposite
direction to meet the cut already made. If this exer-
cise is being worked on the end of apiece of wood, the
knife is used in a different manner. The cut is com-
menced at the centre of the curve and worked outwards
in either direction. During the work the arm is
pressed gently against the side of the body, to steady
the hand which holds the work.

The plane is worked in exactly the same manner, as far as
handling goes, as in Fig. 91. The wood is fixed be-
tween the bench pegs with the edge to be bevelled off
uppermost.

.140

H

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

18

19

Convex model-
ling with the
plane.

Sawing with the
tenon-saw.

20

Wave-sawing.

To plane a cylindrical or convex surface.
This exercise occurs when anything has

to be planed up round ; e.g., round

rulers, rollers, etc.

To saw out small notches, joints, and

tenons.
Exercises with this tool occur frequently in

all kinds of fitting, where a larger tool

would be too coarse.

To saw to a curved line.

The tool used in this exercise is a small-
webbed bow-saw, which will easily
follow any curved line.

Fig. 95.

21

Plane surface
cut.

To cut a broad surface with the knife.

This exercise differs from Ex. No. 1 only

in point of width of wood worked.

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Smoothing-
plane.

Tenon-saw.

Turn-saw.

The work should be fixed between the bench pegs, and
gradually turned round and round to the action of the
plane.

la working this saw, no downward pressure should be
exerted. The saw should be moved backwards and
forwards the whole length of the blade.

An explanation of the method of holding and working this
tool will be found in Ex. No. 7. The frame of the saw
leans to the right or left according to the direction of
the curve.

Knife.

Follow the working of Ex. No. 1, gradually levelling down
the surface without attempting to slice off large pieces
at one stroke.

142

H

Xame of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

22 Scraping.

23

24

To finish up surfaces.

The tool used in this exercise is fully
described in Chap. III., page 106.

Stop-planing
(obstacle-
planing).

Fig. 96.

To plane a piece of wood which presents an
obstacle to the full stroke of the plane.

This kind of exercise frequently occurs in
woodwork. It affords excellent prac-
tice in planing. Fig. 97, face (a), fully
illustrates the nature of the exercise.

Perpendicular
chiselling, or
paring.

To pare the edges, or otherwise, of a piece
of wood to a level surface.

This exercise is one of the most important
in woodwork. It is of frequent occur-
rence, and requires great care. The
tool used has one side ground perfectly
flat, and shows a distinct advance on
the knife, which is ground from both
sides. The flat side of the chisel con-
stitutes its "guide-principle."

143

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Scraper.

Smoothing-
plane.

Fig. 96 shows how the tool should be held. It is pushed
forward with the thumbs, which slightly bend it and
give it greater hold on the wood. It is worked both
with the grain and obliquely to it.

The work is fixed either in the bench-vice or between the
pegs, and the plane is held in the ordinary way, but
worked obliquely as it approaches the obstacle, so as
just to move past it. Close to the obstacle it may be
worked almost directly across the grain.

Firmer chisel

Plate VI. shows the position of the worker. The chisel
should be held in the right hand by the handle. The
left hand should both guide the chisel and steady the
wood. The right arm should be firmly braced against
the body during the paring operation.

144

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

25

26

27

28

Oblique chisel-
ling or paring.

Gouging ivith
the gouge,
and the
spoon-iron.

Concave-
chiselling.

Chopping.

To pare off a piece of wood with the chisel
obliquely to the fibres, but in the
direction in which they run.

This use of the chisel occurs when the edges
have to be chamfered off pieces of
wood.

To produce curved depressions of various
degrees of depth in a piece of wood.

This exercise occurs when anything has
to be hollowed out with the gouge, as,
e.g. in wooden spoons, etc.

To produce a concave surface.

This exercise accomplishes the same end as
Ex. 16, except that the material on
which the chisel is used is generally
thicker.

To dress off rough and uneven surfaces.

This exercise comes in when any rough
wood has to be taken off, which cannot
be so easily removed by the saw, and
which would be of no use if sawn off.

145

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Firmer chisel.

Gouge and
spoon-iron.

Firmer chisel.

Axe.

The work must either be held firmly on the bench with one
hand, or fastened between the bench pegs. The flat
face of the chisel should be towards the wood. The
tool is held generally in the same way as shown in
Plate VI.

Fig. 52, page 92, shows the spoon-gouge and the spoon-iron.
In gouging out a deep depression the rough part of the
work is done with the gouge and the mallet, the
finishing is accomplished without the mallet and with
the aid of the spoon-iron.

The handle of the tool is firmly grasped in one hand, and
the other hand rests upon the face of the blade to
direct its course, which must always be in the direc-
tion in which the fibres run. The wood should be
made fast in the bench-vice. (See Fig. 95, a—b.)

Plate VII., page 183, shows exactly how the wood and the
axe should- be held for chopping. In no case should
the wood be held by the top.

146

Number 1
of
Exorcise.

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

29

30

31

32

Smoothing or To dress up rounded surfaces

dressing-up
with, the
spokcshave.

Fig. 98.

Modelling with To model rounded surfaces.

the spoJceshave.
Oblique sawing. \ To saw off a piece of wood obliquely to the

Oblique planing.

fibres.
To smooth surfaces in an oblique direction

over the fibres.

33 Dressing with To produce a smooth and finished surface.
the smoothing-
plane ; or
smoothing up.

Fig. 99.

147

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Spokeshave.

The work is fixed in the bench-vice. The tool is firmly
grasped in both hands, with heavy forward pressure
from the thumbs, and downward pressure from the
fingers. When necessary, the forward direction of
working may be reversed. For the position of the
worker see Plate VIII.

Spokeshave.

Broad-webbed
bow-saw.

Smoothing-
plane.

Srnoothing-
plane.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 29.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 5, and Fig. 89, c — d.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 33.

The plane is held as shown in Fig. 99, and the surface of the
wood is carefully planed over ; the object being to
smooth out all dints and roughness.

148

•= Ei Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

34

35

36
37 (a)

End squaring.

Halving with
knife.

Work in hard

wood.
Fitting in pegs.

To smooth and square the end of a piece
of wood.

To half-lap two pieces of wood together as
shown in Fig. 100.

This is one of the simplest jointing exer-
cises in woodwork, as well as one of
the most useful.

Fig. 100.
To manipulate very close-grained hard wood.

To joint two pieces of wood together by
means of a dowel or pin which fits
accurately into a hole bored with cen-
tre-bit or au£fcr-bit.

149

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

| Smoothing-
plane.

Knife.

Square; centre-
bit; knife.

The wood is fastened in the bench-vice with the end to be
squared uppermost ; but instead of working the plane
right across, as in edge-planing, it is stopped when it
reaches just beyond the middle, and is started again
from the opposite side. The planing continues from
the opposite edges until the end is squared.

1. The work is set out with square, compass, and marking

gauge.

2. It is cut out with the knife.

3. The parts are fitted together.

As a general rule greater strength is required for wood of
this kind than for softer wood.

1. The hole is bored with the centre-bit.

2. Alter finding the centre of the peg, a circle is described

with the bit to be used in order to get the size of the

peg-

3. The dowel or pin is set out with the square and made

cylindrical witli the knife, so that it may fit closely
and steadily into the hole.

150

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

37(6)

Plugging.

planing.

40

41

To fill up a hole by means of a round plug.

To produce a plane surface at oblique angles
to two other plane surfaces.

Glueing.

Boring with
bradawl.

Sinking and
fixing metal
plates, and
other metal
fittings.

42 Nailing.

Fig. 102.

To fix pieces of wood together.
To produce small holes in a piece of wood.

To fix simple metal plates, etc., on a piece
of work.

To fasten pieces of wood together with
nails.

151

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Centre-bit ;
knife; firmer
chisel.

Trying-plane.

Bradawl.

Screw-driver,
firmer chisel,
bradawl.

Hammer.

The centre-bit used for the hole is used for marking out the
size of the plug, and the fitting is done with the knife
and chisel.

The exercise is performed according to the directions given
in Ex. No. 17, with this exception, that the work is laid
flat on the bench, and the plane is held obliquely at
the angle required, . See Fig. 102.

See Chap. IV., pp. 121, 122.

If the bradawl is not chisel-pointed, as shown on page 112,
Fig. 75, it is simply pressed into the wood and worked
round and round ; but if it is chisel-pointed it should
be pressed in with the point across the fibres to avoid
splitting.

1. If the plate, etc., is' to be sunk, the firmer chisel is used.

2. The plate is screwed on with the screw-driver, care being

taken that the screw passes right down into the wood.

See jointing, Chapter IV., pp. 123, 124.

152

Name of Exercise

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

43

44

Punching.

Bevelling with
the draiv-
knife.

To sink a nail-head below the surface of
the wood.

To produce a broad bevel in the same
direction as the fibres run.

45

46

Perpendicular
gouging.

Plain jointing.

Fig. 103.

To produce a concave excavation, perpen-
dicular to a plane surface.

To plane pieces of wood intended to be
jointed by glueing.

153

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Punch, hammer.

Draw-knife.

Gouge with
edge on the
convex side.

Trying-plane.

The punch is held steadily on the head of the nail, and
struck sharply with the hammer ; otherwise it may
slip aside and make disfiguring holes in the work.

The article is screwed into the bench, and the tool, held
firmly by both handles, is worked steadily over the
wood. The exercise is rendered considerably easier if
the draw-knife is held obliquely, i.e., if the one end is
somewhat in advance of the other. If contrary wood
is encountered, the work should, if possible, be turned
to allow the knife to cut in the direction of the fibres.
[The face of the tool should be held towards the
worker, with the bevelled edge on the work.]

For method of execution see Ex. No. 24.

The greatest care is required in plain jointing in order that
the surfaces which are to be united may fit accurately.
The directions given in No. 8 must be followed. The
trying-plane should be very finely set for this exercise,
in order that it may remove very thin shavings. The
angle which the edge makes with the side of the work
must be frequently tested with the square ; the straight-
ness of the edge must also be tested by the eye. The
second piece of wood is treated in the same way, and
when it is ready, the edge of the first piece is placed

154

Number

of
Kxurci.sc-.

Xame of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

Plain jointing,
continued.

47

Dove-tail
clamping.

To insert a clamp in a broad piece of wood
to prevent warping.

Fig. 104.

48

Oblique
gouging.

To gouge a piece of wood in the direction
of the fibres, but obliquely to them.

155

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Compass ;
square ;
marking-
point ; bevel ;
marking-
gauge ; knife :
tenon-saw ;
groove-saw ;
firmer chisel;
old woman's
tooth-plane ;
jack-plane ;
trying-plane.

Gouge.

upon it for trial. If the joint is accurate, the two sur-
faces will touch at all points, and when placed against
the light will not allow a single ray to pass through.
If any light shines through, the parts which are too
high must be carefully planed down with long, steady
strokes. If two or more planks are to be jointed for
broad work, the surfaces must lie in the same plane,
and this must be tested by placing against them the
straight-edge or the blade of the square.

1. The groove for the clamp is set out with the compass,

square, marking-point, bevel, and marking-gauge ; and
a start for the saw is made with the knife.

2. It is cut out with the tenon-saw, or groove-saw, firmer

chisel, and old woman's tooth-plane.

3. The clamp is made ready with the jack-plane and the

trying-plane, care being taken that it fits accurately all
round.

For method of execution see No. 25, with this difference,
that the gouge is used instead of the firmer chisel.

156

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

49

50

51

52

53

55

Chamfering.

Circular
sawing.

Screwing

", or
fixing with
screws.

Modelling u-ith
the draw-
knife.

Planing across
the grain.

Wedge planing
with smooth-
ing-plane.

Planing with
round-plane.

To chamfer the edges of a piece of wood.

Chamfering is a simple way of ornament-
ing woodwork. The edges of rails
and styles of doors nearest the panels
are often chamfered, and the cham-
fer is generally stopped at a little
distance from the intersection of the
style and the rail. There are various
ways of stopping chamfers, the most
common being the "mitre stop" and
the " curve-stop."

To saw out a circular shape.

To fasten two pieces of work together by
means of screws.

To produce a rounded surface of large
extent.

To plane up a broad surface across the
grain.

To plane an article not only in the direction
of the fibres, but obliquely to them (or
to form an oblique object).

To dress up broad concave surfaces.

157

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Firmer chisel.

Turn-saw.

Screwdriver ;
pin-bit.

Draw-knife.

Trying-plane.

Smoothing-
plane.

Round-plane.

Set out the chamfer with the rule and pencil and try-
square. (The use of the gouge in this exercise is objec-
tiottf hie, as it destroys the angle of the chamfer).
Using the bevelled side of the chisel downwards,
roughly cut away the waste wood ; then with the face
of the chisel towards the wood, steadily pare the
chamfer from end to end. If the stop is mitred, the
face side of the chisel must be used in cutting it ; if
curved, the bevelled side, and the tool must be worked
as a lever, the right hand pulling the handle back and
the left acting as a kind of fulcrum. In both cases
the operation ought to be performed with one cut.

The piece of wood is fastened into the back bench-vice, and
the saw is used according to the directions given in
Ex. No. 15.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 41, and also jointing,
Chap. IV., p. 121.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 44.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 12.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 33.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 33. To produce a good
result the plane must be worked very smoothly and
steadily.

158

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exorcise.

56

57

Fixing with
wooden pegs,
for planing
thin ivoocl

To fix down, by means of wooden pegs, a
thin piece of wood on the surface of a
larger piece, in order to plane the
former.

Fig. 105.

Single dove-
tailing at
right angles.

To dove-tail two pieces of wood together
by means of one dove-tail pin.

Fig. 106.

159

Tools required

Directions for Work.

Pin-bit; knife;
hammer.

Care must be taken that the under piece is level. Tim wood
to be planed is placed on it, and holes are drilled with
the pin-bit, close to each end of the upper piece, through
to the under piece. Suitable pins are then driven into
these holes, and a stable foundation is thus provided
for the work of the plane. See Fig. 105.

Compass ;
square ;
marking-
point; bevel;
cutting-
gauge; knife
tenon-saw ;
groove-saw ;
firmer chisel ;
old woman's
tooth-plane.

1. The groove is set out with compass, square, marking-

point, bevel, and cutting-gauge, and a start is made for
the saw with the knife.

2. It is cut out with the tenon-saw or groove-saw, firmer-

chisel, and old woman's tooth-plane.

3. The clamp is set out with the cutting-gauge, and cut out

with the knife.

Care must be taken that the dove-tail fits accurately. See
Fig. 106.

160

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

58

Common dove-
tailing.

To "corner joint " by dove-tailing. Dove-
tailing of this kind occurs in all sorts
of carpentry and cabinet work. It is
both a strong and a neat method of
jointing, requiring neither nails nor
screws to hold it together. It is most
commonly used for boxes and drawers.

Fig. 107.

Fig. 107 shows the joint open; (a) the "pins." (&)the
into which the pins are fitted.

161

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Cutting-gauge ;
compass ;
bevel ;
square ;
dove-tail saw ;
marking-
point ; tinner
chisel.

In the first place, the pieces of wood to be dove-tailed have
to be carefully planed to thickness and width, and
squared at the ends. Then the cutting-gauge has to be
set to the thickness of the pieces planed, and gauge
lines marked on both faces and edges of each piece, at
a distance from the end of the wood corresponding to
its thickness. Then the size and shape of the pins,
Fig. 107 (a), have to be set out on the end of the wood
with compass, bevel, and square. The pins are cut out
with the dove-tail. saw and firmer chisel, the saw cut-
ting with the grain of the wood, and the chisel across
it. After the pins have been made they are held down
on the piece of wood intended for the sockets, Fig. 107
(?'), in the position in which they have to be inserted,
and their shapes accurately marked off on to one of the
faces of the other piece of wood. These lines are con-
tinued at right angles across the end of the wood with the
square. The sockets are cut out with the dove-tail
saw and small firmer chisel. The two pieces are then
carefully fitted together.

162

I I

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

59

Square shooting,
or planing
with shooting-
board.

To plane a narrow piece of wood across the
grain by means of the shooting-board.

Fig. 108 shows exactly the best way of
handling the plane and holding the
wood and using the shooting-board.

Fig. 108.

60 Hollowing out,
or scooping
out with
gouge.

To produce narrow concave depressions,
or to hollow out with the gouge.

163

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Trying-plane ;
shooting-
board.

The shooting-board is fixed between the bench-pegs, and
the wood and plane held as shown in Fig. 108. The
plane should be carefully " set," and sharp. See page
67 for a full description of the shooting board.

Gouge.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 26.

164

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

01

62

63

Axle fitting.
[This exercise
only applies
to one Swedish
model, i.e., th
shuttle.— Trs.

Housing, or
square groov
ing.

Long oblique
planing.

Setting out.

To fit an axle into a hole.

To divide boxes, &c., into two or more
rectangular portions by means of pieces
of wood.

Fig. 109 shows this exercise open.

Fig. 109,
To plane a long bevelled edge.

To set out divisions in a piece of work.

165

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Compass ; brad-
awl ; firmer
chisel.

Compass; square
marking-

fauge ; saw ;
rmer chisel ;
smoothing-
plane.

1. The axle is set out with the compass.

2. The hole and the slot are made with the bradawl and

chisel.

1. The groove is set out by means of the compass, square,

and marking-gauge.

2. It is cut out with the saw and firmer chisel.

3. The tenon or tongue, i.e., the piece which is run into the

groove, is squared at the end, and the notch set out
with the marking-gauge.

4. It is fitted in by means of the smoothing-plane.

Trying-plane.

Compass; mark-
ing-point ;
square.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 8.

1. The length is divided with the compass, first into larger,

and then into smaller parts.

2. The lines are drawn with the marking-point at right

angles to the edge of the object. Great accuracy is
required in marking off the divisions.

166

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

66

67

68

Panel grooving.

To make grooves for the insertion of panels,
&c.

Glueing with
aid of hand-
screw.

Sawing with
compass (or
keyhole) saw.

Oblique edge-
grooving.

Fig. 110.

To glue together with the aid of the hand-
screw.

To saw out a hole in a piece of wood
For description see page 86.

To join two pieces of wood together by
means of a single dove-tail, at an ob-
tuse angle.

Fig. ill.

167

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Cutting-gauge ;
knife; firmer
chisel; (plough)

Handscrew.

Centre-bit ;
compass-^

Compass ;
square ;
marking-
point; bevel;
cutting-knife;
gauge;
tenon-saw or
groove-saw ;
firmer chisel ;
old woman's
tooth-plane ;
smoothing-
plane.

1. The groove is set out with the cutting gauge.

2. It is cut out with the knife and the firmer chisel. (In the

case of many objects the plough may be employed with
advantage to cut out the groove.)

Before the glue is applied to the joint, the parts must fit
accurately ; otherwise the pressure of the handscrew
will be of little service. A piece of wood should be
laid between the work and the screw to prevent injury
to the surface of the article, and also to distribute the
pressure more equally. See Chap. IV., p. 119.

Two holes are bored in the piece of work with the centre-
bit. The article is then fastened vertically into the
bench, and the saw is worked from one hole to the
other, following lines previously set out. (In the case
of small articles, use may be made of a turn-saw, the
blade of which is detachable at one end.)

1. The groove is set out with the compass, square, marking-

point, bevel, and cutting-gauge ; and a start for the
saw is made with the knife.

2. It is cut out with the tenon-saw or groove-saw, firmer

chisel, and old woman's tooth-plane.

3. The required form of the end of the dove-tail is set out

with the cutting-gauge and the bevel, and it is bevelled
with the smoothing-plane.

4. The clamp is cut out with the knife.

5. The parts are fitted together.

168

y

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

69

Slotting.

To join two pieces of wood, of which one is
thinner than the other, in such a man-
ner that the former slots into the latter
at a right angle, Fig. 112. B is some-
times called a corner bridle joint.

70

Dove-tailing in
thick wood.

71

Mitreing.

Fig. 112.

To make a rectangular corner-joint by
dove-tailing two pieces of thick wood.
This kind of dove-tailing is used for
framing, etc.

To make an end-joint with two pieces of
wood at an angle of 45°.

169

Tools required.

Square ; mor-
tise-gauge ;
tenon-saw (or
dove-tail
saw) ; firmer
chisel ; mallet.

Cutting-gauge ;
compass ;
bevel ; square
dove-tail saw
marking-
point; firmer
chisel.

Bquare; com-
pass; firmer
chisel ;
smoothing-
plane.

Directions for Work.

1. The tenon (Aa) and (Ba) and the slot (Bb) are set out

with the square and the mortise-gauge.

2. The slot (Bb) is cut down with the tenon (or dove-tail)

saw, and cut out with a coarse firmer chisel (or mortise-
chisel), by aid of the mallet.

3. The tenon (Ba) is made with the tenon (or dove-tail)

saw and the firmer chisel. It is called a shoulder tenon.
The tenon (Aa) is simply fitted into the slot with the
smoothing-plane. It is called an unshouldered tenon.
4 The parts are fitted together, and, if necessary, the
firmer chisel is used.

For method of execution see Ex. No. 58 ; but note that still
greater accuracy is required, because exercises with the
saw and the firmer chisel are always more difficult
when the thickness of the wood either falls under a
certain limit, or exceeds it. (Fig. 107.)

For method of execution see Ex. No. 25. The completion
of the joint depends on the nature of the object in
which the exercise occurs. It may require mortising,
glueing, nailing, screwing together with wood screws,
etc. When the object is large, the smoothing-plane is
used in mitreing. [The English method of making this
mitre is by means of a mitre-box and shooting-board,
in which case the saw and trying-plane are used.— TES.]

170

I i

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

72

73

74

75

Common mor-
tise and tenon.

Half-lapping.

To join by means of a mortise and tenon.

To joint together two pieces of wood by
half-lapping the broad sides together, ,
i.e., by cutting half the depth of the '
wood away from each.

Rebating.

having with
V-tool or
parting tool
(fluting).

Fig. 114.

To make a rebate.

Fig. 115.
To hollow out depressions or edges.

171

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Square; mortise-
gauge ; mor-
tise-chisel ;
mallet; tenon
saw.

Square ; mark-
ing-point ;
marking-
gauge ; tenon-
saw; firmer
chisel.

1. The mortise is set out by means of the square and the

mortise-gauge.

2. It is cut out with the mortise-chisel, with the aid of the

mallet.

3. The tenon is cut out with tenon-saw and firmer chisel.

4. The parts are fitted together, the firmer chisel being

employed when necessary.

1. The half-lapping parts are set out with the square, mark-

ing-point, and marking-gauge.

2. They are cut out with tenon-saw and firmer chisel.

3. The parts are fitted together with the aid of the chisel.

Marking-gauge 5 1. The breadth and thickness of the rebate are set out with

knife ; firmer the marking-gauge.

chisel. 2. It is cut out with the knife and the firmer chisel. [This

holds good only of the small rebates which occur in
Slojd carpentry. The plough and the rebate-plane are
used for larger work. — TRS.]

Parting-tool.

The object is screwed tightly into the bench, and the part-
ing-tool is wielded with a steady hand.

172

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

76

77

Half-lap dove-
tailing.

Hinge-sinking,
or fixing
hinges.

To produce a rectangular end-joint by dove-
tailing together two pieces of wood, so
that the dove-tailing does not show on
one side. To do this, one-third of the
wood is not cut through on the side
where the pins are. The socket piece
is cut right through, and dove-tailed in
the ordinary way.

Drawer fronts are dove-tailed in this way.

Fig. 116.

Fig. 117.

173

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Cutting-gauge ;
compass ;
bevel ;
square ;
tenon-saw
(dove-tail
saw) ; mark-
ing-point ;
firmer chisel.

The general method of working is the same as in common
dove-tailing, Ex. No. 58 ; but the cutting-gauge requires
setting twice instead of once. It is first set to two-
thirds of the thickness of the pin-piece (a), and used
across the end of this piece, and then across the sides
and edges of the socket-piece (6). Then it is altered
and set to the thickness of the socket-piece, and marked
across the inside face of (a). Alter gauging, the pins
are set out with the bevel and marking-point and square,
and cut out with the dove-tail saw and firmer chisel.
As the wood is not cut quite through, as in common
dove-tailing, perpendicular chiselling has to be resorted
to with wood fixed endways up in the bench vice (see
Ex. No. 24). The sockets are made as in Ex. No. 58.

Square; firmer
chisel; brad-
awl ; screw-
driver.

1. The position of the hinge is decided on and set out.

2. The depth to which the hinge has to be sunk is taken

and gauged.

3. This part is then cut out with the firmer chisel.

4. For screwing on, see Ex. No. 41.

174

£•% | j Name of Exercise.

78

79

Lock-fating.

Oblique dove-
tailing.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

To make a rectangular end-joint with
oblique pieces of wood.

175

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Pin-bit; firmer
chisel ; knife ;
bradawl ;
screwdriver ;
compass-saw.

Bevel; dove-tail
saw ; com-
pass; square;
tenon-saw ;
firmer chisel ;
smoothing-
plane.

1. The position of the lock is decided on.

2. The place is cut out with the pin-bit and the firmer chisel

to a depth which permits the metal plate to lie on the
same plane as the wood.

3. The hole for the key is cut out with the centre-bit, knife,

and chisel. (In larger work with the compass-saw.)

4. For screwing on, see Ex. No. 41.

1. Set out the angle at the ends with the bevel, and saw off.

2. Bevel off the edges to correspond with the angle at the

ends of the adjacent sides.

3. To get the angle in the horizontal plane at the ends, use

the square in the following way : Place the face against
the side of the wood, and let the blade rest flat on the
plane of the bevelled edge. Then draw the line, and
plane off.

4. The required thickness of each piece is set out with the

cutting-gauge.

5. The pins are set out at right angles to the oblique end

with the compass, bevel, and square.

6. They are made with the dove-tail saw and the firmer

chisel.

[Another method of working this joint is by means of a
prepared shooting-board, by which the two angles at
the ends can be obtained at once.

It may also be mentioned that in the English method of
oblique dove-tailing, the dove-tail pins run in the same
direction as the grain, or obliquely to it, and are con-
sequently stronger. There are theoretical reasons why
this method is not followed at Naas.— TBS.]

176

Number 1
Kxcrcise. 1

Nam

j of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

80

Oblique slotting.

To make an oblique angled joint with a
pin and a slot.

81

Fig. 119.

Notched dove- \ To insert a dove-tail, the outer edge of which
tailing (half conceals the groove, into a piece of wood.

concealed edge
grooving).

Fig. 120.

177

Tools required.

Compass ;
square ;
bevel ;
marking-

tauge ; knife ;
rmer chisel ;
dove-tail saw.

Compass ;
square; mark-
ing-point ;
bevel ; cut-
ting gauge ;
knife ; tenon-
saw or groove-
saw ; firmer
chisel ; old
woman's
tooth-plane ;
dove-tail saw.

Directions for Work.

1. The slot is set out with compass, square, and bevel.

2. The depth of the groove is set out with the marking-

gauge, and cut out with the knife and firmer chisel.

3. The slot is sawn out with the dove-tail saw, and cut out

with the firmer chisel.

4. The parts are fitted together with the aid of the firmer

chisel.

1. The groove is set out with compass, square, marking-

point, bevel, and cutting-gauge ; and cut out with
knife, tenon-saw or groove-saw, firmer chisel, and old
woman's tooth-plane.

2. The shape of the dove-tail is set out with square and

cutting-gauge, and cut out with dove-tail saw and
knife.

3. The parts are fitted together with the aid of the knife.

178

M

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

82

83

Concave model-
ling with
plane (holloiv-
ing with
plane).

Staving.

Hooping.

To produce a concave surface with the
plane.

To fix concave-shaped pieces of wood or
staves to a curvilinear bottom piece,
to make a barrel or bucket.

Fig. 121.

To fix iron hoops round a barrel or bucket,

to hold the staves together.
(The wooden hoops frequently seen are not

suitable for Slojd work.)

179

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Round plane.

Compass ; bow-
saw; spoke-
shave ; bevel ;
marking-
point; mark-
ing-gauge ;
knife; firmer
chisel ; try-
ing-plane ;
smoothing-
plane; brad-
awl.

Cold chisel ;
punch ;
hammer ; s -t
hammer.

1. The required curve is set out at both ends.

2. The shape is produced by means of the jack-plane and

the round plane. (See Fig. 121.)

1. The bottom is made in the shape required.

2. The edge of the bottom is bevelled to the angle required

for the sides of the article.

3. The position and breadth of the groove are set out with

the marking-point.

4. The necessary inclination of the sides of the staves is

determined by the bevel.

5. The depth of the groove is set out with the marking-

gauge, and cut out with the knife and the firmer chisel.

6. The edges of the staves are planed and fitted together.

7. The staves are held together by means of wooden pins

inserted into the edges from the inside.

1. The length of the hoop is taken and cut off with the cold

chisel. s

2. A hole is made with the punch and hammer about half

an inch from each end.

3. The hoop is rivetted by means of a rivet, the head of

which is larger than the hole.

4. The head of the rivet is then made to rest on a block of

metal, and the rivet itself is hammered until a head is
formed on the other side.

5. The hoop is hammered from the inside of the article as it

rests on the block, and thus made to fit.

6. The hoops are put on from the narrowest portion of the

article, and driven home by blows from the set hammer.

180

y

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

85

Concealed
tenoning.

To joint two pieces of wood together at
right angles by means of a concealed
or haunched tenon.

Table rails are joined to the legs in this
way.

Ficr. 122 a.

Fig. 122 b.

To strengthen by means of blocks.

N.B. — In the illustration, the fibres of the

block are accidentally shown running

in the wronsr direction.

tfig. 123.

181

Tools required.

Directions for Work.

Square; mortise
gauge; firmer
chisel ; mor-
tise chisel ;
mallet; bow-
saw ; tenon-
saw.

Dove-tail saw ;
firmer chisel ;
square.

1. The tenon and the mortise are set out at right angles.

2. The breadth of the mortise and the thickness of the tenon

are set out with the mortise gauge.

3. The mortise is cut out with the mortise chisel.

4. The tenon is made with the bow-saw, firmer chisel, and

tenon-saw.

5. The parts are fitted together with the help of the firmer

chisel.

1. The piece to be strengthened is held close to the other

piece with the handscrew.

2. The blocks are made with the dove-tail saw and the

chisel.

3. The blocks are warmed, glued, and put into their places.

4. Before the handscrew is taken away, the glue must be

quite dry.

182

Name of Exercise.

Purpose and Description of Exercise.

87

Mortised
blocking.

To strengthen by means of mortised blocks.
[Sometimes called " button blocks."— TRS.]

88

Up and down
sawing.

Fig. 124.

To divide a long piece of wood into small
pieces.

183

Tools required.

Square; mark-
ing-gauge ;
firmer chisel ;
dove-tail saw.

Broad -webbed
bow-saw.

Directions for Work.

1. The mortise in the rail is set out at right angles with the

square and the marking-gauge, and cut out with the
firmer chisel.

2. The tenon on the block is set out in accordance with the

size of the mortise, with the square and the marking-
gauge ; cut out with the dove-tail saw, and fitted with
the firmer chisel.

3. Previous to the blocking, the object to be fixed is held

in position with the handscrew.

4. The blocks are warmed and glued on the two sides next

the object, and put in their places.

The plank is placed on the bench and held in place by a
hand-screw.

The blade of the saw is set almost at right angles to the
plane of the frame, and the handle is grasped by one
hand, while the other holds the upper end of the side
arm, and the saw is worked vertically with long easy
strokes, with the blade at right angles to the plane
surface of the plank.

184

Plate I. Position : Convex Cut.

185

Plate II. Position : Long-sawing

186

Plate III. Position: Edge-planing.

187

Plate IV. Position : Perpendicular boring with the brace.

188

Plate V. Position : Horizontal boring with the brace.

189

Plate VI. Position : Perpendicular calsellmg.

190

Plate VII. Position : Chopping.

191

Plate VIII. Position : Smoothing, &c., with the spokeshave.

192

Plate IX. Plan of Slojd-room in Katartna Elementary School, Stockholm.

a °- a °- c=

y, 9. 10.

00000
00000

B00QQ
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} f f t ?

. Slojdrooui.

1. Benches.

2. Cupboard with two divisions :

(1) for tools ; (2) for models.

3. Cupboard with two divisions :

(1) for unfinished work.

(2) for finished articles.

4. Teacher's desk.

5. Cupboard :

tt. Iron vice.

b. Iron saw-file vice.

c. Anvil.

6. Lathe.

7. Racks for hand-screws and

shooting-boards.

8. Vices for rough work.
y. Boring-stools.

10. Saw-bench.

11. Glue-pjt

12. Chopping-block.

13. Flat grindstone.

14. Revolving grindstone.

15. Wood-racks.

16. Wash-hand basins.

17. Stoves.

3 racks for saws are introduced
between the windows on the
long wall.
B. Lobby.

193

Plate X.

A. Marking gauge (Johansson's) with stock adjusted by wedges. £.

B. Marking gauge (Lundmark's modified) with stock adjusted by thumb-screw. J.
D. Plough-gauge, a and b, different methods of adjustment. *.

194

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PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS

FOR MAKING

THE HIGH SCHOOL SERIES

SLOJD MODELS.

BY

ALFRED JOHANSSON,

Teacher at the Slojd Training College at Nads, Sweden.

(203

TRANSLATORS' PREFACE.

This little book is intended to be a supplement and companion to the
Teachers' Handbook of Slojd.

The directions which it contains constitute only a part of the Swedish
book from which they are taken. There was originally at Nilas only
one series of models, which every student was obliged to make. There
are now three series of models, adapted for Elementary Schools, Second-
ary Schools, and High Schools respectively. Each series gives practice
in the same exercises, and each series includes a number of models
common to all; but each also includes particular models which are more
especially suitable for the particular class of school : e.g., all series in-
clude a paper-knife, a footstool, and a box ; a spoon, an axe-handle, and
a plate-rack, are included in the Elementary and Secondary School
series ; whilst a drawing-board, a tea tray, and a bracket, are peculiar to
the High School series.

The directions given for the High School series have been chosen for
translation as more suitable for English people than those of the other
two series, which include articles that are quite unknown, and that would
be quite useless in English schools and houses. It is true that even the
High School series does not in all points conform to the principles laid
down in Herr Salomon's Introduction (see pp. 205-207) from the point
of view of English conditions, but this is due to the fact that English
Slojd teachers are not yet agreed as to the best English substitutes for
certain Swedish models. The Appendix to this book contains some
suggestions toward this end, and it is open to every Slojd teacher to
adopt his own substitutes, provided that the articles he selects give
practice in the right exercises in the right order.

The directions given are not intended to supersede the instructions of
a teacher for those who are ignorant of Slojd. They are merely con-
densed notes for the guidance of a pupil working with a teacher, or for
the refreshment of his memory after a course of instruction.

It is assumed throughout that the student has before him a pattern
model, a drawing, and the geometrical construction when necessary. A
list of the exercises occurring in each model will be found on pp. 196-199,
and by referring to the instructions for the execution of the exercises
given in the Teachers' Handbook of Slojd, pp. 126-183, the student who
is working by himself will always secure sufficient guidance.

INTRODUCTION.

BY OTTO SALOMON.

THERE- is perhaps no more dangerous attitude of mind than that of the
people whose opinions remain stationary. Everything, so far at all
events as regards the outward form, is subject to the laws of change and
development. That which was admirably adapted for the past, may be
unsuitable for the present, and entirely useless in the future. We may
admit this general truth without committing ourselves to the pro-
positions that everything old is bad, and that everything new is good.
There arc truths which hold good for all time, and which, at the outside,
merely assume a different form of expression at different periods ; while
many new doctrines, at first sight satisfactory, prove insufficient when
tested by experience.

It is especially important in educational matters, that we should
understand how to steer the middle course between that conservative
spirit which is identical with surrender to the enemy of all progress —
"use and wont," and the nervous, restless search alter novelty which is
ever replacing one imperfectly tested method by another equally untried.
The zealous teacher must always bear in mind that, while his work both
in form and spirit should bear the impress of development, this develop-
ment must be gradual and well-considered. The older he is and the
greater the stores of experience at his command, the more clearly will he
apprehend that the whole question of education is much more compli-
cated than he at first imagined it to be. Much that on superficial
observation seemed simple and clear, on closer inspection turns out to be
the result of many and complex factors. The experienced teacher
therefore guards against hasty conclusions regarding the merits of par-
ticular educational methods. Not content with seeing them in operation,
he studies them, and before abandoning one and adopting another, he
seeks assurance that the new method is not only newer, but better than
the old. He knows too well that what promises well in theory, docs
not always stand the test of practice.

Educational Slojd, the latest addition to the school curriculum, is yet
in the earliest stage of development, and though there exists an increas-
ing agreement as regards its fundamental principles, much serious work

200 HANDBOOK OF SLOYD.

remains to be done in the practical application of these principles.
Hence we must utilize in every possible way the ever widening ex-
perience of the labourers in this comparatively virgin soil. This is
especially the case as regards the models used in Slojd teaching. Tho
teacher who has paid close attention to the subject may now discover
striking defects in a series of models, which only a few years ago seemed
to meet all demands. In an institution, therefore, like the one at Nails,
the object of which is to render teachers capable of directing instruction
in educational Slojd, it would be inexcusable if no effort were made to
keep pace with the times, by taking advantage of the observations made
during each course, and of the advice and the suggestions which the
students are able to offer. During the discussions which are held weekly
for this purpose, each brings his contribution to the common stock, and if
it is true that " two heads are better than one," it is to be assumed that
fifty heads are better still for the purpose of detecting faults and perceiv-
ing the means of improvements. Hence no course of instruction given at
Naas has been in all respects arranged in the same Avay as its imme-
diate predecessor, though it does not follow that every change has been
for the best. On the contrary, it has not seldom been found advisable
to revert to old methods.

The essential characteristic of method at Nails, is the fact that the
principle of arrangement lies in the exercises occurring in Slojd carpentry.
This indeed is the only rational principle on which any method of educa-
tional Slojd can be based. Neither the tools used nor the models
produced furnish a suitable starting point. Exercises which may be
executed with one and the same tool, are not all easier or all more
difficult than the same exercises executed with another tool ; while the
models, regarded from the educational point of view, are merely the in-
cidental means by which various combinations of exercises are expressed.

The exercises themselves may be denned as the elaboration of
material by means of one or more tools in a definite manner, and with
a definite aim. Therefore the principle that the models in any series
shall be arranged to proceed gradually from the more easy to the more
difficult, and from the simple to the complex, refers to the order of the
exercises of which thnt series of models constitutes, for educational
purposes, the practical expression.

The following principles must also be kept in view in the arrangement
of any series of models : —

All articles of luxury must be excluded.

The articles must be such as can be used by the children, or in their
homes, and such as they can make without any help whatever.

INTRODUCTION. 207

The articles must further be of such a nature that the children's sense
of form and beauty will be cultivated in making them.

The earlier articles made should be objects which can be finished
quickly and without much physical exertion. Models requiring longer
time and greater strength should only be introduced gradually.

Wood should be the only material employed, and no more than is
absolutely necessary should be used.

Both hard and soft wood should be employed.

Turning and wood-carving should not be included.

The articles made should not be varnished.

Sufficient variety in the exercises and in the character of the models
should be provided.

All the exercises incidental to wood-slujd should be adequately
represented.

The knife, as the fundamental tool, is the first which should be placed
in the hands of the children.

It is hoped that this little book may worthily do its part towards the
establishment in our schools of educational Slojd, i.e., to a system of
Slojd teaching, rightly understood and practically carried out.

Printed on Cards (size 15 by xo inches), in stout wrapper, with
elastic band. Price 45. per set.

WORKING DIAGRAMS

OF THE

HIGH SCHOOL SERIES OF

SLOJD MODELS

New Edition .Drawn to Metric Measurement", and intended to accompany
JUHAX.SSUN'S ** Practical Directions.**

BY WILLIAM NELSON,

Organizer of Manual Training to the Manchester School Board.

The Set consists of detailed Diagrams of all the fifty Models forming the High

School Series, together with five ad.iitional Diagrams of Alternative

Models, specially adapted to English requirements.

N.B.— The Original Edition of these Cards (xi by 7K inches) with
ENGLISH Measurements can still be had, price per set, 33.

(209)

LIST OF EXERCISES

OCCURRING IN BACH MODEL.

I A. Long cut, cross cut.

1 B. Long cut, cross cut, oblique cut.

2. Long cut, cross cut, bevel cut.

3. Sawing off, long cut, cross cut, convex cut.

4. Sawing off, long cut, cross cut, convex cut.

5. Sawing off, long sawing, edge planing, squaring, oblique cut, convex

cut.

6. Sawing off, long cut, boring with pin-bit, convex cut, cross cut,

filing.

7. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring-up,

gauging, boring with pin-bit, convex cut, cross cut, filing,
oblique cut.

8. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

boring with centre-bit, gauging, wave sawing, long cut, convex
cut, concave cut, filing.

0. Sawing off, long sawing, edge planing, squaring, gauging, bevelling,
convex modelling with the plane, convex cut, cross cut, filing.

10. Sawing off, chopping, edge planing, squaring, gauging, sawing with

tenon saw, long cut, cross cut, convex modelling with the plane,
filing.

11. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, wave sawing, concave cut, convex cut, surface cut,
filing, scraping.

12. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, obstacle planing, perpendicular chiselling, boring with
centre-bit, filing, scraping.

13. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, wave sawing, perpendicular chiselling, filing, gouging'
with gouge and spoon-iron, oblique chiselling, convex cut,
scraping.

14. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, wave

sawing, smoothing with spokeshave, bevel cut, modelling with
spokeshave, cross cut, filing, scraping.

210 HANDBOOK OF SLOYD.

15. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,
gauging, gouging with gouge and spoon-iron, scraping, perpen-
dicular chiselling, filing, convex modelling with the plane,
smoothing-up.

16. Sawing off, face planing, edge planing, squaring, gauging, boring

with centre-bit, wave sawing, perpendicular chiselling, end
squaring, filing, smoothing-up, scraping.

17. Sawing off', long sawing, edge planing, squaring, gauging, cross cut,

kng cut, convex cut, filing, halving with knife.

18. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, obstacle planing, smoothing with spokeshave, wave
sawing, concave cut, long cut, convex cut, cross cut, bevel cut,
filing, scraping.

19. Sawing off, chopping, face planing, squaring, boring with centre-

bit, long sawing, wave sawing, perpendicular chiselling, oblique
sawing, oblique planing, oblique chiselling, gouging with gouge
and spoon-iron, filing, convex modelling with the plane, convex
cut, concave cut, cross cut, scraping.

20. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, boring with centre-bit, wave sawing, perpendicular
chiselling, filing, bevelled edge planing, bevel cut, cross cut,
convex cut, fitting-in pegs, oblique chiselling, smoothing-up,
glueing, sinking iron plates, scraping.

21. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, end squaring, sawing with tenon-saw, perpendicular
chiselling, long cut, cross cut, filing, nailing, punching, smoothing-
up.

22. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, squaring, gauging, boring

with centre-bit, bevelling, convex modelling with the plane, per-
pendicular chiselling, filing, scraping, edge planing, wave sawing,
perpendicular gouging, oblique planing, boring with shell-bit.

23. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, gaug-

ing, end squaring, wave sawing, perpendicular gouging, oblique
sawing, oblique chiselling, boring with centre-bit, filing, smooth-
ing-up, nailing, punching.

24. Sawing off, face planing, edge planing, squaring, dove-tail clamping,

glueing, gauging, end squaring, sawing with tenon-saw, perpen-
dicular chiselling, long cut, wave sawing, concave chiselling,
cross cut, convex modelling with the plane, filing, bevel cut,
scraping, boring with the shell-bit, fixing with screws.

25. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, gaug-

ing, square shooting, nailing, punching, smoothing-up, scraping.

, LIST OF EXERCISES. 211

26. Sawing off, chopping, face planing, squaring, gauging, oblique saw-
ing, wave sawing, oblique planing, oblique chiselling, boring
with centre-bit, perpendicular chiselling, gouging with gouge
and spoon-iron, wave sawing, modelling with draw-knife, model-
ling with spokeshave, long cut, convex cut, concave cut, filing,
scraping.

.27. Sawing off, chopping, face planing, plain jointing, glueing, squaring,
dove-tail clamping, wave sawing, gauging, smoothing with spoke
shave, planing across the grain, wedge planing with smoothing
plane, smoothing-up, scraping, fixing with screws.

28. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, gaug-

ing, wave sawing, planing with round plane, smoothin^-up,
cross cut, convex cut, boring with centre-bit, boring with shell-
bit, modelling with spokeshave, filing, scraping, fixing metal-
hook, plugging.

29. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, boring with centre-bit, boring with shell-bit, fixing
with wooden pegs (for planing thin wood), bevelled edge plan-
ing, cross cut, filing, scraping.

30. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

oblique sawing, wave sawing, gauging, smoothing with spoke-
shave, concave chiselling, single dove-tailing at right angles,
glueing, end squaring, oblique planing, modelling with spoke-
shave, concave cut, convex cut, cross cut, filing, scraping.

31. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, square shooting, common dove-tailing, wave sawing,
concave cut, long sawing, convex cut, cross cut, filing, boring
with centre-bit, boring with bradawl, glueing, nailing, punching,
smoothing-up, scraping.

32. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, wave

sawing, smoothing with spokeshave, perpendicular chiselling,
hollowing out with gouge, gauging, convex cut, long cut, boring
with bradawl, axle fitting, filing, scraping.

33. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, square shooting, common dove-tailing, square grooving,
glueing, boring with centre-bit, wave sawing, convex cut, concave
cut, cross cut, long cut, filing, plain jointing, smoothing-up, con-
vex modelling with the plane, nailing, punching, scraping.

34. Sawing off, wave sawing, face planing, gauging, smoothing with

the spokeshave, bevelling with the draw-knife, modelling with
the spokeshave, convex modelling with the plane, filing, scrap-
ing, work in hard wood.

212 HANDBOOK OP SLOYD.

35. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, gaug-

ing, fixing with wooden pegs (for planing thin wood), boring with
centre-bit, concave cut, long cut, cross cut, convex cut, filing,
square shooting, common dove-tailing, glueing with the use of the
handscrew, nailing, boring with bradawl, scraping.

36. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, squaring, gauging, long

oblique planing, bevelling, convex modelling with the plane,
convex cut, filing, scraping.

37. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, gaug-

ing, fixing with wooden pegs (for planing thin wood), bevelled
edge planing, square shooting, boring with centre-bit, oblique
sawing, oblique planing, setting out, scraping.

38. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, square shooting, common dove-tailing, panel grooving,
glueing with the use of the handscrew, fixing with wooden pegs
(for planing thin wood), cross cut, smoothing-up, scraping.

39. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, plain jointing,

squaring, glueing, gauging, end squaring, oblique planing, boring
with centre-bit, convex sawing, convex cut, filing, oblique edge
grooving, sawing with compass saw, wave sawing, concave cut,
long cut, perpendicular chiselling, nailing, oblique cut, bevel cut,
punching, smoothing-up, scraping.

40. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, square shooting, slotting, glueing with the use of the
handscrew, boring with centre-bit, smoothing-up, scraping, work
in hard wood.

41. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring, plain

jointing, glueing, gauging, square shooting, dove-tailing in thick
wood, dove-tail clamping, end squaring, oblique planing, smooth-
ing-up, mitreing, oblique chiselling, boring with the bradawl,
nailing, perpendicular chiselling, long cut, fixing with screws,
scraping.

42. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, common mortising, perpendicular chiselling, smoothing-
up, cross cut, long cut, convex cut, convex modelling with the
plane, filing, scraping, boring with the bradawl.

43. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

plain jointing, glueing, gauging, end squaring, convex sawing,
perpendicular chiselling, perpendicular gouging, filing, scraping,
notched dove-tailing, smoothing-up, concave cut, long cut, bevel
cut, common mortise and tenon, setting out, boring with centre-
bit, nailing, graving with V tool, scraping, fixing metal plates.

LIST OF EXEUCISKS. 213

44. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, square shooting, half-lapping, glueing, smoothing-up,
rebating, plain jointing, fixing with wooden pegs (for planing thin
wood), oblique chiselling, graving with V tool, boring with
centre-bit, sawing with tenon-saw, perpendicular chiselling, cross
cut, oblique cut, filing, scraping.

45. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, plain jointing,

squaring, glueing, gauging, square shooting, common dove-tailing,
boring with centre-bit, convex sawing, obstacle planing, concave
cut, convex cut, cross cut, long cut, filing, half-lap dove-tailing,
nailing, oblique planing, perpendicular chiselling, convex model-
ling with the plane, punching, smoothing-up, scraping.

46. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, plain jointing, glueing, oblique sawing, oblique planing,
oblique dove-tailing, boring with centre-bit, perpendicular chisel-
ling, convex sawing, long cut, convex cut, concave cut, filing,
smoothing-up, convex modelling with the plane, boring with the
bradawl, nailing, punching, scraping.

47. Sawing off, long sawing, face planing, edge planing, squaring,

gauging, square shooting, convex sawing, perpendicular chiselling,
smoothing with spokeshave, concave cut, convex cut, cross cut,
filing, scraping, notched dove-tailing, smoothing-up, convex model-
ling with the plane, glueing.

48. Sawing off, oblique sawing, oblique planing, concave modelling

with the plane, gauging, chopping, convex modelling with the
plane, face planing, circle sawing, oblique cut, smoothing with
the spokeshave, staving, boring with the bradawl, hooping, con-
vex sawing, concave cut, bevel cut, end squaring, filing, scraping.

49. Sawing off, up and down sawing, face planing, plain jointing, glue-

ing, edge planing, squaring, gauging, end squaring, half-lap dove-
tailing, panel grooving, nailing, bevelled edge planing, mitreing,
punching, smoothing-up, common mortise and tenon, hinge-
sinking, lock fitting, scraping.

50. Sawing off, up and down sawing, face planing, squaring, gauging,

edge planing, concealed tenoning, oblique planing, chamfering,
filing, smoothing-up, glueing, plain jointing, glueing with the
use of the hand-screw, blocking, perpendicular chiselling, end
squaring, mortised blocking, scraping.

PEACTICAL DIRECTIONS.

The Metric Measurements given for each Model are those used at Na'a's, and
uniform with those given in Nelson's Working Diagrams of the Slojd Models
(Metric Edition). The English Measurements are uniform with those given in
Nelson's Working Diagrams (English Edition).

No. la.-SMALL POINTER (Birch).

. ',;" Metric— Length 10 cm. Thickness 0'7 cm.
English — 4 in. by § in.

1. In a suitable piece of wood, make two sides at right angles.

2. Set out the thickness with the metre-measure and pencil, and cut

down to the lines.

3. Draw lines on each side with the metre-measure to indicate how the

model tapers, and Cut down to them, keeping the sides at right
angles.

4. Cut off the edges to make the form octagonal, then make it round.

5. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and cut off.

6. Finish with sand-paper.*

N.B. — This model is made entirely with the knife.

No. lb.— SMALL POINTER (Birch).
Metric — Length 10 cm. Thickness 07 cm.

English — 4 in. by § in.
1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. See No. la.
6. Make the oblique cuts.

N.B.^This model is made entirely with the knife.

No. 2.— PARCEL PIN (Birch).

Metric — Length 1 cm. Thickness 1 cm.

English — 2f in. by f in.

1. On a suitable piece of wood make four sides at right angles. Set
out the length with the metre-measure, and cut off.

* As a general rule it is to be understood that models are finished with sand-paper where
this is necessary.

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS. 215

2. Bevel the edges like those of the model.

3. Set out the place for the notch with the metre-measure, and make

the cross cut.

N.B. — This model is made entirely with the knife.

No. 3.— FLOWER STICK (Hard Pine).
Metric— Length 30 cm. Thickness 1 cm.

English — 12 in. by f in.

\. Saw off a suitable piece of wood with the hand-saw, and make four
sides at right angles, each I'l cm. broad.

2. Cut off the edges to make the stick octagonal, then make it round.

3. Make the point.

4. Set out the length, and cut off, then make the rounded top.

N.B. — After the piece of wood is saion off, this model is made entirely with
the knife.

No. 4.— LETTER OPENER (Birch).

Metric — Length 17 cm. Breadth 1 cm.

English — 6J in. by f in.

1 . Cut a suitable piece of wood to the required breadth and thickness.

2. Draw the outline after the model and diagram, and cut out.

3. Make one side round.

4. Set out the length and cut off. Shape both ends like those of the

model.

N.B. — This model is made entirely with the knife.

No. 5.-FLOWER-POT STICK (Pine).

Metric — Length 35 cm. Thickness 1 cm.

English — 14 in. by f in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece of wood.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane, set out the thickness with the

metre-measure and pencil, and plane off.

3. Square the end with the knife, and draw the diagonals for the point

of the pyramid.

4. Draw the sides of the base of the pyramid at right angles, and cut

with the knife.

5. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and cut off.

216 HANDBOOK OP SLOYD.

6. Make the tapering point and the notches with the knife.

7. Bevel the edges with the smoothing-plane.

No. 6.— CRAYON HOLDER (Hard Pine).

Metric — Length 20 cm. Thickness 1'2 cm.

English — 8 in. by J in.

1. Saw off a suitable piece of wood with the hand-saw, and make it

square with the knife.

2. Draw the diagonals at one end, and bore a hole with the shell-bit

where they intersect.

3. Taper the sides and cut away the edges to make it octagonal, then

make it round.

4. Set out the length, and cut off with the knife. Smooth with the file.

No. 7.— KEY LABEL— (Pine).

Metric— Length, II cm. Breadth, 4 cm.

English— 4 in. by 1£ in.

1 . Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane. Then set out the breadth

with the marking-gauge, and plane off.

3. Draw the outline, using square and compass.

4. Bore the hole with the shell-bit

5. Set out the thickness, after the model, with the marking-gauge, and

plane off.

6. Cut off the length with the dove-tail saw, and make the rounded end

with the knife.

7. Smooth both ends with the file.

8. Make the notches with the knife.

No. 8.-PACKTHREAD WINDER (Birch).

Metric— Length 9 cm. Breadth 4'5 cm.

English — 3£ in. by If in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane.

3. Draw the outline from the diagram, with the help of the square and

the compasses.

4. Bore with the centre-bit for the curve at each end.

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS. 217

5. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane to the line

with the trying-plane.

€. Saw out the shape w ith the turn-saw, and smooth with knife and file.
7. Round the inner edges of the concave ends with the knife.

No. 9.— ROUND RULER (Pine).

Metric — Length 35 cm. Thickne&s 2-5 cm.

English — 14 in. by 1 in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

•2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane ; set out the

thickness with the marking-gauge and square the two remaining

sides.
3. Find the middle points in both ends and describe a circle round each,

the diameter of which is equal to the thickness given.
-4. Bevel the edges with the jack-plane and the trying-plane, to make

the piece of wood octagonal.

5. Make the cylindrical form with the smoothing-plane.

6. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and saw off with the

dove-tail saw.

7. Round the edges of both ends with the knife.
•8. Smooth with the file.

No. 10.-PEN REST (Birch).

Metric — Length 9 cm. Breadth 2 cm.
English— 3% in. by $ in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw, and trim it with the axe
as nearly as possible to the given thickness.

•2. Face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the breadth and thick-
ness with the marking-gauge, and plane the other two sides.

3. Set out the length and the notches, from the diagram, with the com-

passes. Make the notches with the dove-tail saw and knife.

4. Saw off to the length with the dove-tail saw.

5 Find the middle point at both ends and describe round it a semi-
circle, the diameter of which is equal to the given thickness.
Hound with the smoothing-plane.
'7. Square the ends with the knife.
8. Smooth with the file.

HANDBOOK OF SLOYD.

No. 11.— PAPEE KNIFE (Birch).

Metric— Length 30 cm. Breadth 3 cm.

English — 12 in. by 1J in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the harm-saw, and face and edge with

the trying-plane.

2. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, saw off with the hand-

saw, and plane to the line with the trying-plane.

3. Draw the outline from the diagram, cut out with the turn-saw, and

smooth the edges with the knife and spokeshave.

4. To make the sharp edge, draw a line down the middle of the front

edge, and cut down to this line on both sides with the knife.
Make the notch between the blade and handle with the knife.

5. Round the handle and the back of the blade with the knife.

6. Smooth with the file and the scraper.

No. 12.— RAZOR STROP— (Birch).

Metric — Length 40 cm. Breadth 4 cm.
English — 16 in. ly \\ in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the breadth and

thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off.

3. Set out from the diagram, with the help of the square and the mark-

ing-gauge, the position of the part cut away. Cut out with the
hand-saw, smoothing-plane and knife. (Obstacle planing.)

4. Set out the length of the handle from the diagram with the metre-

measure, and cut off with the tenon-saw and the firmer chisel.
6. Set out the whole length and cut off. Set out the rounded form of
the one end with the square and compasses, and cut it out with
the turn-saw, firmer chisel, and spokeshave.

6. Bore the hole with the centre-bit from both sides.

7. Smooth with the file and scraper.

No. 13.-BOWL FOR WRITING TABLE-(Birch).

Metric — Length 9 cm. Breadth 5 '5 cm.

English— 3% in. by 2| in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the thickness

• the marking-gauge, and plane off with the trying-plane.

LIST OF EXERCISES. 219

.'3. Make both constructions, using the square and compasses.

4. Saw out with the turn-saw, pare the edge with the firmer chisel, and

smooth with the file.

5. Hollow out (first with the mallet and gouge, then with the spoon-

iron), smooth with sand-paper.

6. Model the under surface with the firmer chisel, knife and file.

7. Smooth with the scraper.

No. 14.— HAMMER HANDLE— (Birch).

Metric— Length 30 cm. Breadth 3'2 cm.
English— 12 in. by !£ in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane.

3. Draw out the shape on both sides. (Freehand from diagram).

4. Saw out with the turn-saw and smooth the sides with the spoke-

shave.

5. Cut away the sharp edges (chamfer) with the knife, and shape with

the spokeshave.

6. Set out the length with the metre-measure and cut off with tenon-

saw and knife.

7. Smooth with tile and scraper.

No. 15.— PEN TRAY— (Birch).

Metric — Length 25 cm. Breadth 7 cm.
English — 15 in. bij 2f in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the breadth with the

marking-gauge, and plane off with the trying-plane.

3. Make the drawing for the hollowed out part with the square, com-

passes, metre-measure, and marking-gauge, and hollow out with
the mallet, gouge, and spoon-iron. Smooth with the scraper and

4. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the trying-plane.

5. Set out the length, and cut it off at right angles with the tenon-saw.

6. Set out the curve of the edges with the compasses, and model with

the firmer chisel and smoothing-plane ; then smooth with the
file.

7. Smooth the whole of the outside with smoothing-plane and scraper.

220 HANDBOOK OF SLOYD.

No. 16.— KNIFE-BOARD (Pine or Fir).
Metric— Length 60 cm. Breadth 15 cm.
• English— 24 in. by 6 in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Set out the breadth with the metre-measure, and plane it off.

4. Draw the outline of the rounded end with square and compasses.

5. Bore the hole with the centre-bit.

6. Shape with the bow-saw, firmer chisel, smoothing -plane, spokeshave,

and file.

7. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

jack-plane and trying-plane.

8. Smooth the plane surfaces with the smoothing-plane and the scraper.

No. 17.— FLOWER-POT CROSS (Pine).
Metric—Length 13 cm. Breadth 2'5 cm.

English — 5 in. by 1 in. by $ in-
Saw out in one piece, with the hand-saw, sufficient wood for both

parts of the cross.

Fa«e and edge with jack-plane and trying-plane.
Set out the breadth and the thickness with the marking-gauge, then

cut in two with the dove-tail saw.

Draw the outline (exclusive- of the halving notches), using square,
marking-gauge, and compasses ; cut out with the knife, and
smooth with the file.
Set out the halving notches for the joint with the compasses, square,

and marking-gauge, and cut out with the knife.
Fit the pieces together.

No. 18. -METRE-MEASURE (Birch).
Metric— Length 64 cm. Breadth 2'5 cm.

English — 18 in. by 23£ in. by 1 in.
Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.
Face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the breadth and

thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off.
With square and marking-gauge set out the rectangular portion, and
cut it out with hand-saw, smoothing-plane, spokeshave, and
knife.

LIST OP EXERCISES. 221

4. Taper the blade on both sides with the trying-plane.

5. Draw the handle ; saw out with the turn-saw, and model with the

knife.

6. Bevel the edges of the handle with the knife.

7. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and saw off with the

dove-tail saw.

8. Smooth with the file and scraper.

No. 19.— SCOOP (Birch).

Metric — Length 24 cm. Breadth 1 cm.

English— 9| in. by 2f in.

1. Saw off a suitable piece with the hand-saw, and trim with the axe as

near the thickness required as possible.

2. Face and edge with jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Make the side construction with square and compasses.

4. Cut out with the centre-bit, hand-saw, and turn-saw, and smooth

with firmer chisel and smoothing-plaue.

5. Draw the outline of the upper curved surface on the edge prepared,

and cut out with the hand-saw and turn-saw, and smooth with
the smoothing-plane and firmer chisel.

6. The shape of the hollowed out portion is set out with the compasses

and marking-gauge, and cut out with the mallet and gouge, spoon-
iron, file, and scraper.

7. Draw the outline of the under curved surface, and saw out with the-

turn-saw.

8. Model with axe, smoothing-plane, and knife.

9. Smooth with file and scraper.

No. 20.— CLOTHES RACK (Pine).

Metric — Length 40 cm. Breadth 8 cm.
English — 16 in. by 3 in.

1. Saw out with the hand-saw a suitable piece for the back

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and the trying-plane. Set out

the breadth with the marking-gauge, and plane off with the jack-
plane and the trying-plane.

3. Draw a middle line for the holes for the pegs.

4. Make the construction with the square and compasses, cut out with.

the turn-saw and firmer chisel, and smooth with the file.

222 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

5. Bore the holes with the centre-bit.

6. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with the

jack-plane and the trying-plane.

7. Set out the bevel with compasses, square, and marking-gauge, and

bevel with the knife and trying-plane.

8. Face and edge enough wood for the pegs in one piece, with the

trying-plane, and set out the breadth and thickness with the
marking-gauge.

9. Set out the length of the pegs 1 cm. longer than the length given, and

saw off with dove-tail saw.

10. On the pin ends of the pegs draw diagonals, and with the same

centre-bit as was used to bore the holes, describe a circle round
the centre point of the pin.

11. Set out the length of the pins with the square, and cut out with the

dove-tail saw, knife, and firmer chisel, and finish with the file.

12. Smooth the front side of the back with the smoothing-plane, and

glue the pegs into the holes.

13. Saw off the ends of the pins at the back with the tenon-saw, and

smooth with the smoothing-plane.

14. Smooth the whole with the scraper.

No. 21.-FLOWER POT STAND (Pine).

Metric — Length 40 cm. Breadth 11 cm.

Englith — 16 in. by 4^ in,

1. Saw out a suitable piece from a plank with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the jack-plane and the trying-plane.

4. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and saw off at right angles

with the tenon-saw. Square the ends with the smoothing-plane.

5. Set out the breadth (1'5 cm.) for the laths, by making points on the

plane surface 1 cm. from both ends, and join these points by
straight lines.

-6. Cut out the laths with the broad-webbed bow-saw, and plane to a
thickness with the trying-plane. Set out the breadth with the
marking-gauge, and plane off with the trying-plane.

7. Saw out the feet with the hand-saw, and plane with the trying-plane
to the required breadth and thickness, and cut off with the tenon-
saw. Fasten them together into the bench, and square the ends
with the smoothing-plane.

LIST OF EXERCISES. 223

8. Draw the shape of the feet with the compasses, square, and marking-

gauge, and cut out with the tenon-saw, firmer chisel, knife, and
file.

9. Nail on the laths at right angles, and sink the heads of the nails

with the punch, then smooth the surface with the smoothiug-
plane.
10. Smooth the ends of the stand with the file.

No. 22.— ROLLER & RESTS FOR FLOWER-PRESS (Birch).

Metric — Length 38 cm. Thickness 6 cm.

English — 15 in. by 2^ in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw for the roller.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane, set out the thickness with the

mnrking-gauge, and plane oft' with the trying-plane.

3. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and saw off at right

angles with the tenon-saw.

4. Set out the holes with the compasses, square, and marking-gauge,

bore the holes from both sides with the centre-bit.

5. Find the middle point of both ends, and round it describe a circle,

the diameter of which is equal to the thickness required. Make
the article octagonal with the roughing-plane and trying-plane.

6. Make the cylindrical form with the trying-plane and the smoothing-

plane.

7. Smooth the roller with file and scraper.

8. Saw out sufficient wood for the rests with the bread-webbed bow-

saw, and face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the
breadth and thickness witli the marking-gauge.

9. Make the construction with the square and compasses ; cut out with

the turn-saw, gouge, and firmer chisel, and smooth with the file.

10. Set out the bevel with the compasses and metre-measure, and make

it with the trying-plane.

11. Set out the holes with the compasses, and bore them with the

shell-bit.

12. Smooth the parts with the scraper.

No. 23.— FOOT-STOOL.— (Pine).

Metric— Length 27 cm. Breadth 22 cm.
English— 10^ in. Inj 8 in,

1. Make the laths by the directions given in No. 21.

2. Saw out wood for the feet in one piece.

224 HANDBOOK OF SLOYD.

3. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane ; set out the-

breadth with the marking-gauge, and plane off.

4. Saw through the middle at right angles with the tenon-saw, and

nail the two pieces together with nails.

5. Set out the length at right angles, and saw off with the tenon-saw ;

square the ends with the smoothing-plane.

6. Make the construction on both sides with square and compasses ;

cut out with the tenon-saw and turn-saw, chisel, centre-bit and
gouge, smooth with the file, and take the pieces apart.

7. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the jack-plane and trying-plane.

8. Nail on the laths. (See further, No. 21).

No. 24.— BOOK GABBIER. (Pine and Birch).

Metric — Length 23 cm. Breadth 15 cm.

English — 9 in. by 6 in.

1. Saw out pine for both boards in one piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane ; set out the

breadth with the metre-measure and plane off with the jack-
plane and trying-plane.

3. Set out the grooves for the clamps with the square, compasses, metre-

measure, marking-point, bevel and marking-gauge, and cut out
with the knife, tenon-saw (or groove-saw), firmer chisel, and old
woman's tooth.

4. Plane up the clamps and fit them in with the jack-plane and trying-

plane.

5. Plane the surface level with the trying-plane ; set out the thickness

with the marking-gauge, and plane off with jack-plane and
trying-plane.

6. Set out the length of each board at right angles with the metre

measure and marking-point, and saw off with the tenon-saw.

7. Fasten the pieces together with nails ; square the ends with the

smoothi ng-plane.

8. Set out the notches on both sides with the compasses and square, and

cut out with tenon-saw, firmer chisel, and knife.

9. Saw out a suitable piece of birch for the handle with the hand-saw ;

plane up with trying-plane, setting out the breadth and thick-
ness with the marking-gauge.
10. Make the construction for the handle with square and compasses;

LIST OP THE EXERCISES. 225

cut out with turn-saw, firmer chisel, smoothing-plane and knife,
and smooth with file and scraper.

11. Bore the holes for the screws with the shell-bit.

12. Screw the parts together with the screwdriver.

No. 25.-BOX (Pine).

Metric— Length 23 cm. Breadth 13 cm.
English — 9 in. by 5 in.

1. Saw out the parts with the hand-saw, and face and edge with the

jack-plane and trying-plane.

2. Set out the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane

off with jack-plane and roughing-plane.

3. Set out the length of the sides with the metre-measure ; cut off at

right angles with the tenon-saw, and square the ends in the
shooting-board with the trying-plane.

4. Nail the pieces together, using bradawl and hammer.

5. Smooth the bottom with the smoothing-plane.

6. Saw off the bottom with the tenon-saw 5 mm. longer than the

length given, and nail it on ; sink the heads of the nails with
the punch.

7. Smooth the sides on the outside and the upper edges with the

smoothing-plane.

8. Finish the whole with the scraper.

No. 26.-LADLE (Birch).

Metric— Length 34 cm. Breadth 8 '6 cm.
English -13J in. by 3| in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw, and trim it with the

axe as near as possible to the required thickness.

2. Face and edge with jack-plane and trying-plane. Set out the

breadth 5 mm. more than is given with the marking-gauge, and
plane off.

3. Draw the upper curved outline on both sides ; saw out with the

hand-saw and turn -saw; and smooth with the smoothing-plane
and firmer chisel.

4. Make the construction.

5. Cut out the upper surface with the centre-bit, hand-saw, and turn-

226 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

6. Smooth to the lines drawn with firmer chisel and file.

7. Hollow out the bowl with the mallet and gouge and spoon-iron;

smooth with scraper and sand-paper.

8. Cut out the under surface like that of the model with the turn-saw,

drawknife, spokeshave, and knife.

9. Smooth with the file and scraper.

No. 27.— FLOWER PRESS (Pine).

Metric — Length 45 cm. Breadth 25 cm.

English — 18 in. by 10 in.

1. Saw out pieces with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Plane up and fit the edges which are to be jointed with the trying-

plane, and glue together.

4. Face and edge with the trying-plane ; set out the breadth with the

metre-measure and plane off with the jack-plane and the trying-
plane.

5. Set out the grooves for the clamps with the square, compasses, metre-

measure, marking-point, bevel, and marking-gauge ; and cut out
with the knife, groove-saw (or tenon-saw), firmer-chisel, and old
woman's tooth.

6. Plane up, and fit the clamps with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

7. Level the whole with the trying-plane.

8. Draw the outline, and saw out with the turn-saw.

9. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the jack-plane and trying-plane.

10. Smooth the end with the spokeshave and file.

11. Set out the slope of the under board with the compasses, square,

and marking-gauge, and make it with the trying-plane and
smoothing-plane (wedge-planing across the gram).

12. Finish with smoothing-plane and scraper.

No. 28.-CLOAK SUSPENDER (Birch).

Metric — Length 40 cm. Breadth 3 '5 cm.

English — 16 in. by 1$ in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane ; set out the thickness with

the marking-gauge, and plane off with the trying-plane.

LIST OP EXERCISES. 227

3. Draw the outline, and saw out with the turn-saw.

4. Smooth the concave edge with the round plane, and the convex

edge with the smooth ing-plane.

5. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and saw off at right

angles with the tenon-saw.

6. Draw the curves of the sides, and model with the smcothing-plane.

Model the ends with the knife.

7. Set out the hole with the compasses ; bore it with centre-bit and

shell-bit.

8. Round the edge with the spokeshave, and smooth with file and

scraper.

9. Fashion the hook with the round-jawed pliers, cold chisel, and

hammer. Use an iron vice (if one is available).

10. Set out the plug and make it with the chisel ; glue it in.

11. Smooth off the end of the plug with the knife to correspond with

the concave edge, and finish with file and scraper.

No. 29.— FLAT RULER (Birch).

Metric — Length 45 cm. Breadth 4-5 cm.
English— 18 in. ly If in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane ; set out the breadth with the

marking-gauge, and plane off with the trying-plane.

3. Set out the hole with the square and compasses, and bore with the

centre-bit ; set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and
saw out with the broad-webbed bow-saw.

4. Fix with wooden pegs to a thicker piece of wood, 1 cm. broader than

the work, and plane off.

5. Bevel the edges with the trying-plane.

6. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and saw off at right

angles with the tenon-saw ; smooth the ends with the knife and
file.

7. Finish the wider flat surfaces with the scraper.

No. 30.-BOOT-JACK (Birch and Pine).
Metric — Length 34 cm. Breadth 1 1 cm.

English— 13i in. by 4J in.

Saw out a suitable piece of birch with the hand-saw.
Face and edge with the trying-plane.

228 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

3. Set out the outer contour with the square and compasses, and saw

out with the hand-saw and the turn-saw.
1. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane to the

line with the trying-plane.

5. Smooth the edges with the spokeshave and firmer chisel.

6. Saw out a piece of pine for the foot with the hand-saw ; face and

edge with the trying-plane ; and set out the thickness with the
marking-gauge.

7. Set out the dove-tail groove for the foot with the compasses, mark-

ing-point, square, set bevel, and cutting-gauge ; and cut it out
with the knife, groove-saw, and firmer chisel.

8. Fit the foot into the dove-tail groove, using the cutting-gauge and

the knife.

9. Cut out the fork with the bow-saw, knife, and spokeshave.

10. Glue in the foot.

11. Cut off the ends at right angles with the tenon-saw, and smooth

with the smoothing-plane.

12. Set out the slope of the foot and back with the compasses and

metre-measure ; cut out with the dove-tail saw, and smooth with
the smoothing-plane.

13. Model the edges with the spokeshave, knife, and file.
U. Finish with the scraper.

No. 31.— WALL LAMP-STAND (Pine).

Metric — Length 25 cm. Breadth 12 cm.

English — 10 in. by 4| in.

Saw out material for the bottom and the back in one piece with the
hand-saw, and face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-
plane.

Set out the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge, and
plane off with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

Saw off the bottom and the back at right angles with the tenon-
saw ; square the ends in the shooting-board with the trying^
plane.

Set out the length of the dove-tails with the cutting-gauge, in
accordance with the thickness of the wood ; set out the shape of
the pins with the compasses, set-bevel and square, and cut it out
with the dove-tail saw and firmer chisel, by aid of the mallet.

Draw the sockets from the pins with the marking-point and square,
and cut out with the dove-tail saw and firmer chisel.

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS. 229

6. Fit the pins carefully into the sockets, using the knife and firmer-

chisel.

7. Make the construction for the back with the square and compasses ;

cut out with the turn-saw and smooth with the knife and file.

8. Bore the hole with the centre-bit and bradawl.

9. Set out the length of the bottom, and saw off at right angles with

the tenon-saw, then square the end in the shooting-board.

10. Smooth up the two inside surfaces with the smoothing-plane, and

glue the bottom and the back together.

11. Saw out the sides of the bottom in one piece with the broad-webbed

bow-saw, and plane off with the trying-plane. Set out the breadth
and thickness with the marking-gauge.

12. Draw the shape, and cut with the knife and smooth with the file ;

then fit the parts and nail them together, using the knile,
hammer, shooting-board, and trying-plane.

13. Smooth the outer sides with the smoothing-plane.

14. Finish the entire model with the scraper.

No. 32.-SHUTTLE (Birch).

Metric— Length 26 cm. Breadth 4 cm.

English — 10| in. by 1| in.

1. Saw out a piece rather larger than the model with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane.

3. Draw the outline and saw out with the turn-saw.

4. Smooth the edges to the line with the spokeshave and firmer chisel.

5. Set out the position of the bowl with the compasses ; hollow out with

the gouge and mallet, and smooth with sand-paper.

6. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with the

trying-plane.

7. Draw the curves of the sides on the edge of the work ; saw out with

the turn-saw, and smooth with the knife and the spokeshave.

8. Make the axle with the knife, and fit it into the hole, using the

bradawl and the firmer chisel.

9. Finish with the file and the scraper.

230 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

No. 33.-KNIFE-BOX (Pine).

Metric— Length 30 cm. Breadth IT'S cm.

English — llf in. by 1 in.

1. Saw out material for the sides in two pieces with the hand-saw, face

and edge with the roughiug-plaue and the trying-plane, set out
the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge.

2. Cut the pieces to the proper lengths with the tenon-saw, and square

the ends in the shooting-board with the trying-plane.

3. Set out the grooves for the handle with the compasses, square, and

marking-gauge, and cut out with the knife and firmer chisel.
4 Set out the length of the dove-tails with the cutting-gauge, according
to the thickness of the wood ; draw the shape of the pins with
the compasses, set-bevel, and square, and cut out with the dove-
tail saw, firmer chisel, and mallet.

5. Draw the sockets from the pins, using the marking-point and square,

and cut them out with the dove-tail saw, firmer chisel, and mallet.

6. Fit the pins carefully into the sockets, using the knife and the
^firmer chisel.

7. Smooth the inner surfaces with the smoothing-plane, then glue the

sides together.

8. Plain joint and glue the bottom.

9. Plane up the handle with the jack-plane and the trying-plane, set-

ting out the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge.

10. Make the construction for the handle with the square and compasses,

and cut it out with the centre-bit, turn-saw, knife, and file ;
square the ends in the shooting-board.

11. Smooth the outsides and the top and bottom with the smoothing-

plane.

12. Fit the handle into the grooves, using the smoothing-plane and

the knife.

13. Plane up the bottom with the jack-plane and the trying-plane ;

set out the length and width with the metre-measure and square,
and cut off with the tenon-saw ; then set out the required form
of the edges with the square and compasses, and round with the
smoothing-plane and the file.

14. Nail on the bottom ; sink the heads of the nails with the punch.

15. Finish with the file and scraper.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 231

No. 34.— AMERICAN AXE HANDLE (Oak).

Metric— Length 48 cm. Breadth 6'5 cm.

English— 19 in. by 2f in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece of wood with the hand-saw.

2. Draw the outline, and saw out with the turn-saw.

3. Plane off one side with the trying-plane ; set out the thickness

with the marking-gauge ; make a fresh drawing ; cut off the
edges to the line with the draw-knife, and smooth with the
spokeshave.

4. Draw the shape of both ends, and model with draw-knife, spoke-

shave, and smoothing-plane.

5. Set out the length, and cut off with the tenon-saw.

6. Smooth with file and scraper.

No. 35.-MATCH BOX (Birch).

Metric— Length 19 cm. Breadth 8 '5 cm.
English — 7i in. by 3| in.

1. Saw out the pieces with the hand-saw ; face and edge with the

trying-plane ; set out the breadth and thickness with the mark-
ing-gauge.

2. Plane off the back according to the directions given in No. 29 (4).

3. Make the construction with square and compasses ; cut out with
. the tenon-saw and knife, and smooth with the file.

4. Bore the holes with the centre-bit and the bradawl.

5. Dove-tail and glue according to the directions in Xo. 33.

6. Smooth the under side with the file ; then glue the bottom on with

aid of the hand-screw.

7. Shape the bottom with the knife ; smooth with the file and the

scraper, and nail on to the back.

No. 36.-ROUND STICK.

Metric — Length 80 cm. Thickness 3 cm. at one end, and 4 cm. at the other.
English— 32 in. by If in. by li in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the trying-plane.

232 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

3. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the trying-plane.

4. Find the middle point at both ends, and describe round each a circle,

the diameter of which corresponds to the given thickness of each
end.

5. Plane (oblique planing) with the trying-plane to the circles ; then

make the stick octagonal with the jack-plane and the trying-
plane.

6. Kound with trying-plane and smoothing-plane.

7. Set out the length, and cut off with the tenon-saw ; then model

the ends with the knife.

8. Smooth with file and scraper.

No. 37.— SET SQUARE (Birch).

Metric— Breadth 10 cm. Length 20 cm.

English— % in. by 4f in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

U. Face and edge with the trying-plane. Set out the thickness with
the marking-gauge, and saw out with the hand-saw.

3. Fix with wooden-pegs, because the object is too thin to be planed

between the bench-pegs.

4. Bevel the edges with the trying-plane.

5. Square the end in the shooting-board.

6. Set out the hole with the square and compasses, and bore with the

centre-bit.

7. Set out the angles and size with the metre-measure, square, and

marking-point ; saw out with the tenon-saw, and smooth with
the smoothing-plane.

8. Set out the divisions with the compasses, square, and marking-

point.

9. Smooth with the scraper.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 233

No. 38.— PEN-BOX (Birch).

Metric — Length 24 cm. Breadth 7 cm.
English— 9\ in. by 2f in. by 2 in.

1. For directions for planing and dove- tailing, see No. 33.

2. Cut out the groove for the lid with the cutting-gauge, knife, and

firmer chisel.

3. Fit the lid into the groove with the smoothing-plane.

4. Smooth the bottom with the smoothing-plane, and glue it on, using

the hand-screw.

5. Smooth the outside with the smoothing-plane and the scraper.

No. 39.— STOOL (Pine).
Metric— Length 24 cm. Breadth 21 cm.

English — 16J in. by 10 in. by 8J in.
I. Saw out the pieces with the hand-saw.
.2. Plane up one side with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Plane the edges with the jack-plane and trying-plane ; and plain

joint.

4. Plane the parts true with the jack-plane and the trying-plane ; then

set out the breadth with the metre-measure, and the thickness
with the marking-gauge.

5. Fasten the parts for the feet together with two nails. Cut off the

length at right angles with the bow-saw. Square the upper end
with the smoothing-plane.

6. Set out the inclination of the feet with the set-bevel and cutting-

gauge, and plane off with the smoothing-plane.

7. Make the construction for the feet with the square and compasses ;

cut out with the centre-bit and bow-saw ; and smooth with the
knife and file.

8. Set out the length for the top, and cut off at right angles with the

tenon-saw. Square the ends with the smoothing-plane.

9. Set out the groove for the feet with the compasses, square, marking-

point, set-bevel, and cutting-gauge ; and cut out with the knife,
groove-saw, firmer chisel, and old woman's tooth.
10. To fix the position of the hole, draw diagonals. Draw the outline
of the hole, and cut out with the centre-bit, compass-saw, knife,
and file.

234 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

11. Fit the feet into the groove with the knife, and glue them in.

12. Fasten the side pieces together -with two nails ; make the construc-

tion, and cut out with tenon-saw, turn-saw, smoothing-plane,
firmer chisel, knife, and file.

13. Smooth and fit the side pieces with the trying-plane, and nail them

together ; sink the nails with the punch.

14. Smooth the top and sides with the trying-plane and smoothing-

plane.

15. Finish with the file and scraper.

No. 40.-SQUARE (Beech)

Metric — Length 25 cm. Breadth 5 cm.

English— 10 in. by 6 in. by 2 in.

Saw out both pieces with the hand-saw ; face and edge with the
trying-plane ; set out the breadth and thickness with the mark-
ing-gauge.

Square one end of the stock in the shooting-board with the trying-
plane.

Set out the slot for the blade with the compasses, square, and
marking-gauge, and cut out with the tenon-saw and firmer chisel.

Fit in the blade with the firmer chisel ; then glue the parts together
with aid of the hand-screw.

Smooth the sides and the outer edges with the smoothing-plane.

Set out the length, and cut off at right angles with the hand-saw.
Square the ends in the shooting-board.

Set out the position of the hole with the compasses and square. Bore
the hole with the centre-bit.

Finish with the scraper.

No. 41.— DRAWING-BOARD, WITH FRAME (Pine).

Metric — Length 54 on. Breadth 44 cm.

English — 21^ in. by l?i in.

1. Saw out sufficient material for the board with the hand-saw.

2. Face one side with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Plain joint with the trying-plane, and fit the pieces together ; glue,

and cramp up in the bench.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 235

4. Saw out sufficient material for the frame with the hand-saw ; face

and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane ; and set out the
breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge.

5. Set out the length of each part of the frame with the metre-measure,

and cut off at right angles with the dove-tail saw. Square the
ends in the shooting-board.

6. For directions for dove-tailing the sides of the frame, see No. 33.

7. Plane up one side and one edge of the board true with the trying-

plane. Set out the breadth with the metre-measure, and plane
off with the jack-plane and the trying-plane.

8. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the jack-plane and trying-plane.

9. Set out the length of the board with the metre-measure, and cut off

at right angles with the hand-saw.

10. Set out the grooves for the clamps with the square, compasses,

metre-measure, marking-point, set-bevel, and marking-gauge ;
and cut it out with the knife, groove-saw, firmer chisel, and old
woman's tooth-plane.

11. Plane up the clamps, and fit them into the grooves with the jack-

plane and trying-plane. Set out the angle of the ends with the
set-bevel. Saw off with the dove-tail saw, and finish with the
smoothing-plane.

12. Set out the slope of the clamps with the metre-measure and com-

passes, and make it with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

13. Square the ends of the drawing-board with the trying-plane,. so that

it fits into the frame.

14. Smooth up the outer edges of the frame with the trying-plane and

the smoothing-plane.

15. Saw out the material in one piece for the blocks of the frame ; saw

them off with the dove-tail saw ; fit them in with the firmer
chisel, and secure them with nails, using the bradawl and the
hammer.

16. Plane up the buttons in one length with the trying-plane, and make

them with the firmer-chisel and knife.

17. Bore the holes with the bradawl, and drive in the screws with the

screw-driver.
IS. Finish with the smoothing-plane and the scraper.

236 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

No. 42.— MARKING-GAUGE (Beech).

Metric — Length 13 cm. Breadth 4 '5 cm.

English — 9 in. by 5 in.

1. Saw out the pieces from a plank with the hand-saw ; face and edge

with the trying-plane, and set out the breadth and thickness with
the marking-gauge.

2. Set out the position of the mortise in the stock with the compasses,

square, and marking-gauge.

3. Cut out the mortise with a broad firmer chisel and a narrow

mortise-chisel, using the mallet.

4. Set out the length of the stock and saw off with the tenon-saw ;

smooth and shape the ends with the firmer chisel.

5. Plane up the spindle with the trying-plane ; fit it into the mortise

with the smoothing-plane, and then cut off the length with the
dove-tail saw ; shape it with the knife.

6. Make the wedges according to the model with the tenon-saw,

smoothing-plane, firmer chisel, and knife.

7. Finish each part with the file and scraper, and put the whole

together.

No. 43.— BRACKET (Birch or Alder).

Metric— Length 40 cm. Breadth 20 cm.

English — 16 in. by 71 in.

1. Saw out suitable pieces with the hand-saw.

2. Plane up one side of the pieces for the shelf with the trying-plane ;

plain joint and glue.

3. Face and edge the other portions with the trying-plane, and set out

the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge.

4. Fasten together the pieces for the feet with two nails.

5. Make the construction for the feet with the square, compasses, and

metre-measure.

6. Cut them off at the top at right angles with the hand-saw, and

square with the smoothing-plane.

7. Cut out the feet with the turn-saw, firmer chisel, gouge, file, and

scraper.

8. Face and edge the piece for the shelf with the trying-plane ; set out

the breadth with the metre-measure, and the thickness with the
marking-gauge. Plane off' with the trying-plane.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 237

9. Set out the length of the shelf.

10. Set out the grooves with the compasses, square, marking-point, set-

bevel, and marking-gauge ; cut it out with the knife, groove-saw,
firmer chisel, and old woman's tooth-plane.

11. Set out the depth of the dove-tail on the feet with the cutting-

gauge ; fit it into the groove with the knife and dove-tail saw.

12. Cut the shelf to the right length with the tenon-saw. Square the

ends with the smoothing-plane.

13. Glue in the dove-tails, and smooth the shelf with the smoothing-

plane.

14. Set out the length of the pillars with the compasses.

15. Set out the size of the dowelled ends of the pillars with a suitable

centre-bit, and round them to fit the holes with the chisel.
Chamfer the pillars with the knife.

16. Fit together the top rails with mortise and tenon, using firmer-

chisel and dove-tail saw. Set out the length with the metre-
measure, and saw off with the tenon-saw.

17. Set out the distance between the pillars with the compasses. Bore

the holes for the pillars with the centre-bit which was used in
setting out the dowels on the pillars.

18. Nail the back rail to the shelf. Fit the side rails and pillars

together, and glue.

19. Fit the coverings of side rails with the chisel, and nail on.

20. Smooth the outer edges of the bracket with the smoothing-plane.

21. Set out the lined depressions in the edges with the marking-gauge,

and grave with the parting-tool

22. Finish with the scraper.

No. 44— PICTURE FRAME (Birch or Alder).

Metric -Length 32 cm. Breadth 28 cm.

English— 12£ in, by 11 in.

1. Saw out the pieces with the hand-saw ; face and edge with the

trying-plaue ; and set out the breadth and thickness with the
marking-gauge.

2. Set out the length of each side, and cut off at right angles with the

tenon-saw. Square the ends in the shooting-board with the
trying-plane.

238 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

3. Set out the half-lapping parts with the square, marking-point, and

marking-gauge, and cut out with the dove-tail saw and firmer-
chisel.

4. Set out the rebate with the cutting-gauge, and cut it out with the

knife and chisel.

5. Smooth up both sides with the smoothing-plane.

6. Try the parts together, and glue.

7. Set out the fluting with the compasses, square, and marking-gauge,

and grave with the parting-tool.

8. Make the hanger with the smoothing-plane, centre-bit, and chisel.

Fit it in with the dovetail-saw and chisel, and glue.

9. Plane up the pyramidal facets for the front of the frame in one

piece with the trying-plane, and cut off each to the right length
with the dovetail-saw. Square the ends in the shooting-board ;
shape with the chisel, and glue on.

10. Plane up the back-piece with the trying-plane, and fit into the

rebate with the shooting-board and trying-plane.

11. Finish with the scraper.

No. 45.— STAND FOR TOOLS (Pine).

Metric— Length 55 cm. Breadth 28 cm.

English— 21 £ in. by II in. by 5 in.

1. Saw out the material for the back and the bottom portions in one

piece with the hand-saw. Plane up one side with the jack-plane
and the trying-plane.

2. Plain joint with the trying-plane, glue and " cramp up :> in the

bench vice.

3. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane. Set out the

breadth with the metre-measure, and the thickness with the
marking-gauge.

4. Cut off the parts which are to be dove-tailed at right angles with

the tenon-saw. Square the ends in the shooting-board.

5. For directions for dove-tailing, see No. 33.

6. Make the construction for the back with the square, compasses, and

metre-measure, and cut out with the turn-saw, centre-bit,
smoothing-plane, knife, and file.

7. Set out the length of the bottom, and cut off at right angles with

the tenon-saw. Square the ends in the shooting-board.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 239

8. Glue the parts together.

9. Plane up the other parts with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

Set out the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge.

10. Dove-tail the box according to the model. (See No. 33,)

11. Set out the shape of the front of the box with the square, com-

passes, and marking-gauge ; cut it out with the turn-saw, knife
and file.

12. Fit the box on to the back and bottom, and nail, using the tenon-

saw, firmer-chisel, smoothing-plane, file, and hammer.

13. Smooth up the bottom, the back, and the box with the smoothing-

plane.

14. Make the construction for the bracket supports with the square

and compasses ; cut them out with the turn-saw, firmer-chisel,
knife, and file ; square one end in the shooting-board with the
trying-plane ; glue the supports on at right angles to the back,
and nail.

15. Set out the length of the shelves, and saw off at right angles with

the tenon-saw ; square the ends in the shooting-board ; set out
the holes in the shelves with the compasses and square, and cut
out with the centre-bit and the firmer-chisel.

16. Nail on the shelves.

17. Cut off the pieces for the divisions of the box at right angles with

the tenon-saw ; square the ends in the shooting-board with the
trying-plane ; then fit them in and glue.

18. Finish with the scraper.

No. 46.— TEA TRAY (Pine).

Metric— Length 35 cm. Breadth 24 cm.

English— 9| in. by 6f in.

Saw out suitable pieces with the hand-saw.

Face and edge the sides with the jack-plane and the trying-plane ;
set out the breadth and thickness with the marking-gauge.

Plane up one side of the bottom with the jack-plane and trying-
plane ; plain joint and glue.

Set out the length of the sides with the metre-measure, and the
required angles with the bevel ; saw off with the tenon-saw ;
square the ends with the smoothing-plane.

240 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

5. Dove-tail the parts according to the model, using the cutting-

gauge, compasses, bevel, square, marking-point, tenon-saw,
firmer-chisel, and mallet.

6. Set out the shape of the end pieces, and cut out with the centre-

bit, firmer-chisel, turn-saw, knife, and file.

7. Glue the parts together.

8. Plane up the bottom, on the side previously planed, with the trying-

plane ; set out the breadth with the metre-measure, and the
thickness with the marking-gauge ; plane off with the jack-
plane and the trying-plane.

9. Smooth the outside with the smoothing-plaue.

10. Set out the shape of the bottom with the compasses and metre-

measure, and cut out with the smoothing-plane and file.

11. Nail on the bottom, using the brad- awl and the hammer.

12. Shape the upper edge of the tray with the smoothing-plane, knife,

and file.

13. Finish with the scraper.

No. 47.-BOOKSHELVES (Pine).

Metric— Length 52 cm. Breadth 45 cm.

English— '20J in. by 18 in. by 6 in.

1. Saw out suitable pieces with the hand-saw ; face and edge with the

jack-plane and trying-plane ; set out the breadth with the metre-
measure and the thickness with the marking-gauge.

2. Fasten the side pieces together, with two nails, and make the con-

struction with the square, compasses, and metre-measure.

3. Cut off the lower end at right angles with the tenon-saw, and

square with the smoothing-plane.

4. Cut out the shape with the turn-saw, firmer-chisel, spokeshave,

knife, file, and scraper.

5. Take the side pieces apart.

6. Set out the grooves in the side pieces for the insertion of the shelves

with the compasses, square, bevel, and cutting-gauge, and cut
them out with the knife, dovetail-saw, and firmer-chisel.

7. Set out the length of the shelves and cut off at right angles with

the tenon-saw ; square the ends in the shooting-board with the
trying-plane.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 241

8. Make the notch at the ends of the shelves with the cutting-gauge

and the dovetail-saw ; round the front edge with the smoothing-
plane ; fit into the grooves with the firmer-chisel.

9. Put the parts together at right angles and glue.

10. Smooth the sides and the back edge with the smoothing-plane.

11. Smooth the model with the smoothing-plane and file, and finish

with the scraper.

No. 48.-HOOPED BUCKET (Pine).

Metric— Height 20 cm. Diameter 21 cm.
English — 8 in. by 9 in.

1. Saw out suitable pieces with the hand-saw.

2. Plane the edges of the staves true with the jack-plane and trying-

plane.

3. Set out the curves at both ends of the staves according to the

model ; then work the concave surface of the inner side of the
staves with the Swedish jack-plane and round plane.

4. Set out the thickness of the staves with the marking-gauge ; then

dress down the outer surface with the axe, and finish with
jack-plane and smoothing-plane.

6. Face and edge the piece for the bottom with the jack-plane and
trying-plane ; set out the thickness with the marking-gauge ;
construct the shape with the compasses, and cut out with the
turn-saw and the spokeshave ; set out the inclination of the edge
with the bevel.

6. Set out the groove, according to the thickness of the bottom, with

the marking-point, bevel, and marking-gauge, and cut it out with
the knife and firmer-chisel.

7. Set out the position of the holes for the pins which hold the staves

together, with the square and marking-gauge ; bore the holes
with the brad-awl.

8. Put the parts together, and smooth on the outside with the

smoothing-plane.

9. Put on the hoops, using the punch and the cold-chisel.

10. Set out the distance between the bottom and the lower ends of the
staves with the compasses ; cut off with the tenon-saw, and
smooth with the smoothing-plane and spokeshave.

242 HANDBOOK OF SLO.TD.

11. Set out the height with the metre-measure, cut off with the tenon-

saw, and smooth with the smoothing-plane and spokeshave.

12. Construct the shape of the under ends of the staves with the com-

passes ; cut out with the turn-saw and knife, and smooth with
the file.

13. Smooth the inside of the model with the spoon-iron and file, and

finish with the scraper.

No. 49.— CABINET (Pine).

Metric— Length 66 cm. Breadth 40 cm.

English— 16 in. by 16| in. by 10£ in.

1. Saw out suitable pieces with the hand-saw.

2. Face the pieces intended for plain jointing with the jack-plane and

trying-plane ; then plain joint with the jack-plane and trying-
plane, and glue.

3. Face and edge the top moulds and the lists with the jack-plane and

trying-plane ; set out the breadth and thickness with the
marking-gauge.

4. Set out the bevelled edges of the lists with the marking-gauge, and

plane off with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

5. Face and edge the pieces for the sides, bottom, back, panels, and

shelves with the trying-plane ; set out the breadth with the
metre-measure, and the thickness with the marking-gauge, and
plane off with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

-6. Set out the length of the parts to be dovetailed, and cut off at
right angles with the tenon-saw ; square the ends with the
sinoothing-plane.

7. Dove-tail according to the model. For directions see No. 33.

8. Fit the parts together ; level the back edges of the carcase with

the trying-plane, then take the pieces apart.

•9. Set out the groove into which the back slides with the cutting-gauge,
and cut it out with the knife and firmer-chisel (or the plough).

10. Glue the carcase together.

11. Cut off the piece for the back at right angles with the tenon-saw,

and fit it into the groove with the smoothing-plane and trying-
plane ; then nail it at the bottom.

12. Smooth the outer sides of the carcase, and the front edge with the

trying-plane and smoothing-plane.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 243

13. Fit the lists and mouldings together, using the square, set bevel,

dovetail-saw, smoothing-plane, and firmer-chisel, and nail them on.

14. Set out the pieces for the door, according to the model, with the

square and marking-gauge.

15. Cut out the mortise-holes with the mortise-chisel, and cut the tenons

to fit the holes with the tenon-saw and firmer-chisel.

16. Fit the door-frame together, using the firmer-chisel. Smooth the

outside with the trying-plane.

17. Set out the groove for the panel with the cutting-gauge, and cut it

out with the knife and firmer-chisel.

18. Fit the panel into the groove with the trying-plane and smoothing-

plane.

19. Put the parts together, and glue.

20. Smooth the frame pieces for the door on both sides, and fit it into

its place with the trying-plane and smoothing-plane.

21. Sink the hinges and fit the lock with the square, marking-gauge,

pin-bit, firmer-chisel, and screwdriver.

22. Smooth the upper and under surfaces with the smoothing-pkme,

and finish the whole article with the scraper.

No. 50. -SMALL TABLE (Pine).

Metric— Height 76'5 cm. Breadth 34 cm.
English- 30 in. by 13i in.

1. Saw out suitable pieces with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge the legs with the jack-plane and trying-plane ; set

out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with the
jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Face and edge the pieces for the rails with the jack-plane and

trying-plane ; set out the breadth and thickness with the mark-
ing-gauge.

4. Fix the pieces for the rails into the bench; set out the length

with the metre-measure ; set out the tenons according to the
model with the square and marking-gauge, and cut them with
the tenon-saw and firmer-chisel.

5. Fix the legs into the bench ; set out the mortise-holes, according to

the tenons, with the square and marking-gauge.

6. Cut out the mortises with the mortise-chisel and mallet.

244 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

7- Set out the shape of the legs with the square, compasses, and
marking-gauge, and plane off with the jack-plane and trying-
plane ; set out the bevel with the marking-gauge, and make it
with the firmer-chisel and file.

8. Fit the tenons into the mortises with the firmer-chisel.

9. Smooth the inside of the legs with the smooth inj-plane.

10. Set out the block-mortise in the rails with the compasses, square,

and marking-gauge, and cut out with the firmer-chisel.

11. Glue the parts together.

12. Plain joint, and glue the pieces for the top and the shelf.

13. Cut off the legs at the upper end with the tenon-saw to the right

length, at right angles to the rails, then level with the smoothing-
plane ; smooth the upper edges of the rails with the smoothing-
plane.

14. Smooth the outer sides with the smoothing-plane.

15. Face and edge the top and the shelf with the jack-plane and the

trying-plane ; set out the breadth with the metre-measure, and
the thickness with the marking-gauge.

16. Fit in the shelf, using the square, marking-gauge, dove-tail saw, and

firmer-chisel.

17. Plane up the blocks to the required breadth and thickness with the

jack-plane and trying-plane ; set out their length with the com-
passes, cut off with the dove-tail saw, and smooth with the
firmer-chisel

18. Hold the shelf close to the bottom rails with the hand-screw ; glue

the blocks to the shelf and the rails.

19. Set out the shape of the top with the square and compasses, and cut

it out with the firmer-chisel, smoothiug-plane, and file.

20. Plane up the blocks for the mortises, and fit them in with the dove-

tail saw and firmer-chisel ; set out their length with the com-
passes, and cut off at right angles with the dove-tail saw and
firmer-chisel.

21. Hold the top in position with the hand-screw ; glue the blocks, and

place them in position.

22. Smooth the edges of the top and the shelf with the smoothing-plane

and file.

23. Finish with the scraper.

(245)

APPENDIX.

As is well known to all students of the principles of educational Slojd,
the " models " are merely the means by which the pupil is made to pro-
duce a useful article at the same time that he practises the " exercises.'"
Hence, the more nearly the articles made conform to the national usage
and personal requirements of those who make them, the more nearly do
they fulfil their intention. Hence also, the more readily the English
Slojd-teacher can discover a substitute for any model included in the
High School series, which does not exactly meet the requirements of
English people, the more closely will he approximate to the ideal Slqjd-
teacher.

What follows may suggest further modifications to the minds of
English teachers.

ALTERNATIVES TO SOME OF THE MODELS IN
THE HIGH SCHOOL SERIES.

No. 9 — page 11. As an alternative to this model, the pupil may make
the Dibble, the ninth model in the Secondary School series. Children
who are fond of gardening like it.

DIBBLE— (Pine).

Metric— Leng 'h 30 cm. Thickness 2*5 cm,
English— 12 in. by 1 in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane. Set out the

thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off.

3. Draw diagonals to find the middle point at each end, and describe

round it a circle, the diameter of which is equal to the prescribed
thickness of the model.

4. Bevel the edges with the jack-plane and the trying-plane to make

the article octagonal.

246

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

5. Make it cylindrical with 'he smoothing-plane.

6. Make the pointed end with the knife.

7. Set out the length, and cut off with the tenon -saw.

8. Round the upper end with the knife.

9. Finish with the file and sandpaper.

No. 12 — page 13. As an alternative, the Bench Hook may be made.

BENCH HOOK (Beech).

Metric— Length 28 cm. Width 1 cm.
English— -11 in. by 2£ in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece of wood, 32 cm. long, 9 cm. wide, and 4 cm.

thick, with hand-saw.

2. Plane up face side and face edge at right angles.

3. Gauge to thickness and width, and plane off.

4. Set out the hook on each side, as shewn in diagram.

5. Saw out with the hand-saw, and plane true with jack-plane and

smoothing-plane, paring out the corners with knife and chisel.

6. Saw to right length with tenon-saw, and shoot the ends in the

shooting-board.

7. Round off the ends of the stops with the chisel and knife, and finish

with file and scraper.

8. Bore the hole for hanging with the brace and 1'5 centre-bit (from

each side).

No. 15 — page 14. As an alternative, or as an opportunity for extra
practice, the Spoon, which is the fifteenth model in the Elementary
School series, may be made

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 247

SPOON (Birch).

Metric— Length 21 '5 cm. Breadth 5 '2 cm.
English— -8% in. by 2i in.

1 Saw off a suitable piece with the hand-saw, and trim with the axe to
the approximate breadth and thickness.

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane, and gauge up

5 cm. brca ler than actual size and plane off.

3. Set out the side elevation of the spoon as shown in Construction

Sheet No. 15, PL 5. Saw out the upper side with the hand and
bow-saw, and pare to lines with firmer-chisel and gouge, finishing
with the file.

4. On the upper prepared surface, draw the plan of the handle and the

ellipse of the bowl, as shown in Construction Sheet No. 15,
PI. 5.

5. At the shoulders of the spoon bore two holes with the 2 '9 centre-bit,

then saw out shape with the bow-saw, pare the edges with the
chisel and gouge, and finish with the file.

6. Hollow out the bowl with a large gouge and the spoon-iron. Scrape

with the convex shell scraper, and sandpaper.

7. Draw the under curve and saw out with the bow-saw.

8. Model to right shape with the knife and spoke-shave, and finish with

the file, scraper, and sandpaper.

No. 16 — page 15. This model, in the Swedish series, is only 45 cm.
long, is called a " cutting board," and is used in cutting slices of bread
from the small round loaves used in Sweden. By making it 60 cm. long,
the pupil can make it the shape of an English knife-board, but one side
would require to be coated with leather, or some other material, to make
it really useful.

Nos. 22 and 27— pages 19, 23, form together a very efficient contrivance
for pressing flowers, but not of a kind with which English people are
familiar. As a substitute for No. 22, a thoroughly useful and English
model, "a towel-roller and rests" has been suggested; but this model,
though complete in itself, does not furnish practice in all the exercises
included in the flower-press as a whole. The pupil who chooses the
towel-roller should therefore also make the "lid," the twenty-fourth
model 6f the Elementary School series.

248 HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

TOWEL-ROLLER and RESTS (Birch).
Metric — Length 43 cm. Thickness 4'5.
English— n in. by If in.

1. Saw out a suitable piece for the roller with the hand-saw.

2. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane, set out the

thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with the jack-
plane and trying-plane.

3. Set out the length with the metre-measure, and cut off at right

angles with the tenon-saw.

4. Draw diagonals at each end to find the centre-point, and describe a

circle, the circumference of which is equal to the thickness re-
quired for the roller, and bore the holes for the pegs or dowels
with the centre-bit.

5. With the planes make the roller first octagonal, then sixteen-sided,

and finally round.

6. Make the pegs for the ends in the same manner, glue them in, then

cut off to the required length with the tenon-saw.

7. Finish with file and scraper.

8. Saw out sufficient material for both rests in one piece with the hand-

saw.

9. Face and edge with the jack-plane and trying-plane, set out the

thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with the jack-
plane and trying-plane.

10. Draw the construction on both sides of the wood, using the square

and compasses.

[Though there is no construction at present specially devised for the
rests of the towel-roller, the teacher or student will easily see by
comparing the construction for the rests of the flower-press with
the rests of the towel-roller, how to modify the former for the
construction of the latter.]

11. Make the holes with the centre-bit, cut out with the turn-saw,

gouge, firmer- chisel, and file.

12. Drill holes for the screws.

13. Finish with scraper.

PRACTICAL EXERCISES. 249

LID (Pine).

Metric — Diameter 34 cm.
English — 13^ in. by f in.

1. Saw out the material with the hand-saw.

2. Plane one side of each piece with the jack-plane and trying-plane.

3. Plain joint the edges which are to be glued with the trying-plane,

glue, and cramp up in the bench.

4. Make the surface quite level with the trying-plane.

5. Set out the circular shape with the compasses.

6. Set out the groove for the clamp with the square, compasses, metre-

measure, marking-point, set-bevel, and marking-gauge. Cut it
out with the knife, groove-saw, firmer-chisel, and old woman's
tooth.

7. Plane up the clamp, and fit it into the groove with the jack-plane

and trying-plane.

8. Set out the thickness with the marking-gauge, and plane off with

the jack-plane and trying-plane.

9. Saw out the circle with the broad bow-saw. Smooth and shape

the edges with the spokeshave and file.

10. Smooth off with the smoothing-plane.

11. Saw out material for the handle with the hand-saw, and plane to

the required breadth and thickness with the jack-plane and
trying-plane.

12. Make the construction with the square and compasses.

13. Cut out with the turn -saw, firmer-chisel, smoothing-plane, knife,

file, and scraper.

14. Bore the holes for the screws with the centre-bit.

15. Screw the handle on to the lid, using the screwdriver.

251

Lists of Tools required for different numbers of Pupils.

A. List of Tools required for one pupil.

1 Shooting-board.

1 Hand-saw.

1 Half-round file.

2 Haridscrews.

1 Tenon-saw.

1 Round file.

1 Metre-measure or

1 Compass-saw.

1 Scraper.

Rule.

1 Groove-saw.

1 Brace, with set of

1 Mark ing- point.

1 Axe.

bits.

1 Marking-gauge.

1 Knife.

1 Bradawl.

1 Cutting-gauge.

1 Draw-knife.

1 Mallet.

1 pair of Compasses.

4 set (6) Firmer-

1 Hammer.

1 Square.

Chisels.

1 pah- of Pincers.

1 Bevel.

2 Mortise Chisels.

1 Wire-cutter.

1 Saw-set.

| set (6) Gouges.

1 pair flat-jawed Pliers.

1 Saw-sharpening

1 Spoon-iron.

1 pair round-jawed

clamps.

1 Jack-plane.

Pliers.

1 Triangular file.

1 Trying-plane.

1 Screwdriver.

1 Bow-saw.

1 Smoothiug-plane.

1 Glue-pot and Brush,

1 Dove-tail saw.

1 Compass-plane.

1 Grindstone.

1 Turn-saw (broad-

1 Old woman's tooth-

1 Oilstone.

webbed).

plane.

1 Oil-can.

1 Turn-saw (narrower

1 Spokeshave.

Sandpaper.

webbed).

1 Flat file.

B. Minimum number of Tools required for the simul-
taneous instruction of 6 to 8 pupils.

2 Marking- points. 1 1 Bevel.

1 Shooting-board.

2 Handscrews.

6 to 8 Metre-measures 3 pair Compasses,
or Rules. 3 to 4 Squares.*

3 to 4 Marking-gauges.*

1 Saw-set.
1 Saw-sharpening
clamps.

[* With regard to the minimum number of tools required, the reader is
referred to Chapter I., p. 24, and is strongly recommended to provide
each child, if possible, with a complete bench set, viz :— knife, jack-plane,
trying-plane, smoothing-plane, square, marking-gauge, compass, rule or
metre-measure, and scraper. — TRS.]

252

HANDBOOK OF SLOJD.

2 Triangular files.

£ set (4) Mortise

1 Brace, with set of

2 Bow-saws.

Chisels.

bits.

1 Dove-tail saw.

£ set (6) Gouges.

1 Bradawl

1 Turn -saw (broad-

3 Spoon-irons.

3 Mallets.

webbed).

2 Jack-planes.*

2 Hammers.*

2 Turn-saws (narrower

3 Trying-planes.*

1 pair Pincers.

webbed).

3 Smoothing-planes.*

1 Wire-cutter.

1 Hand-saw.

1 Compass-plane.

1 pair flat Pliers.

1 Tenon-saw.

1 Old woman's tooth-

1 pair round Pliers.

1 Compass-saw.

plane.

2 Screwdrivers.

Groove-saw.

2 Spokeshaves.

1 Glue-pot and Brush.

1 Axe.

1 Flat file.

1 Grindstone.

6 to 8 Knives.

2 Half-round files.

2 Oilstones.

Draw-knife.

1 Round file.

1 Oil-can.

set (12) Firmer

3 Scrapers.*

Sandpaper.

Chisels.

C. Minimum number of Tools required for the simul-

taneous instruction of 12 pupils.

2 Shooting-boards.

1 Hand-saw.

2 Round files.

3 Handscrews.

1 Tenon-saw.

6 Scrapers.*

12 Metre-measures or

1 Compass-saw.

1 Brace, with set of

Rules.

1 Groove-saw.

bits.

4 Marking-points.

1 Axe.

2 Bradawls.

8 Marking-gauges.*

12 Knives.

4 Mallets.

2 Cutting-gauges.

1 Draw-knife.

3 Hammers.*

6 pair of Compasses.

1 set (12) Firmer

1 pair of Pincers.

8 Squares.*

Chisels.

1 Wire-cutter.

2 Bevels.

£ set (4) Mortise

1 pair flat Pliers.

2 Saw-sets.

Chisels.

1 pair round Pliers.

2 Saw-sharpening

£ set (6) Gouges.

6 Screwdrivers.

clamps.

3 Spoon-irons.

1 Glue-pot with Brush.

4 Triangular files.

4 Jack-planes.*

1 Grindstone.

3 Bow-saws.

8 Trying-planes.*

2 Oilstones.

2 Dove-tail saws.

8 Smoothing-planes.*

1 Oil-can.

2 Turn-saws (broad-

1 Compass-plane.

Sandpaper.

webbed).

4 Spokeshaves.

2 Turn-saws (narrower

1 Flat file.

webbed).

3 Half-round files.

* See note, page 251.

LIST OF TOOLS.

253

D. Complete list of Tools required for the simultaneous
instruction of 12 pupils.

3 Shooting-boards.

3 Hand-saws (tenon-

4 Flat files.

4 Handscrews.

saws).

6 Half-round files.

12 Metre-measures.

1 Groove-saw.

4 Round files.

8 Marking-points.

2 Axes.

6 Scrapers.

12 Marking-gauges.

12 Knives.

1 Brace with set of

2 Cutting-gauges.

2 Draw-knives.

bits.

6 pair of Compasses.

2 sets (24) Firmer

3 Bradawls.

12 Squares.

Chisels.

8 Mallets.

2 Bevels.

1 set (8) Mortise

12 Hammers.

2 Saw-sets.

Chisels.

2 pair of Pincers.

2 Saw-sharpening

1 set (12) Gouges.

1 Wire-cutter.

clamps.

6 Spoon-irons.

1 pair flat Pliers.

4 Triangular files.

12 Jack-planes.

1 pair round Pliers.

4 Bow-saws.

12 Trying-planes.

6 Screwdrivers.

3 Dove-tail saws.

12 Smoothing-planes.

1 Glue-pot with Brush.

4 Turn-saws (broad-

1 Compass-plane.

1 Grindstone.

webbed).

1 Old woman's tooth-

3 Oilstones.

4 Turn-saws

plane.

1 Oil-can.

(narrower webbed).

6 Spokeshaves.

Sandpaper.

254 HANDBOOK OP SLOJD.

The cost of providing the above tools, calculated according to the
prices* now current (in Sweden), is as follows : —

List (A) about 50 Kroner. +
.. (B) „ 85
„ (O „ 135 „

„ (/>) „ 20:, „

The number of benches required is as follows :—

For List (A) 1

„ ,. (7?) 3 or 4

» -, (O 8

„ „ (D) 12

If double benches are used, only half the number will be required in
the cases of (B), (C), and (D) respectively. As double benches are
cheaper in proportion to single benches, they may in some cases be
preferred to single ones.

Tools of the best quality should always be procured ; they are the
cheapest in the long-run.

It is also desirable that drawings and constructions of the models
should be procured.

In connection with this, it may be mentioned that the annual cost oi
timber and other materials in a small country school in Sweden, where
10 to 15 children receive instruction, is from 10 to 20 kronor, exclusive of
the outlay of replacing worn-out tools.

The same materials tor a class of 16 boys in England would cost about
£l 10s. annually. Red deal pine is the best soft-wood for Slojd, and can
be obtained at any good timber yard. Lime-tree, sycamore, and chestnut
all make good substitutes for birch. The two former are very fine in the
grain, and are good for scoops, bowls, etc. They are a little dearer than
birch. American canary wood can also be recommended as a wood
suitable for flat articles ; it is a little harder than deal, and works easily.
This wood can be obtained anywhere, and is not dear.

* The English prices for the tools are given on pages 267-^70.
t The Swedish krona is worth Is. IJd. Eighteen kronor = £1.

INDEX.

Absolute weight of timber, 51.

Accuracy, habits of, 2, 14, 15.

Adjustable bench, 65.
„ bit, 112.
„ handscrew, 69.
planes, 102.

Age of the Slojd-pupil, 17.
„ of trees, 30.

Aim of Slojd, 2.

Air-tubes, 31, 32.

Albuminoids in sap, 34.

Alburnum, 32.

Alder, the, 32, 35, 38, 39, 46, 48, 50,
52, 53 ; the hoary-leaved, 53.

Alternatives to some of the Models,
245-249.

American Axe-handle, 231.

American Canary-wood, 254.

Angle formed by the bevelled edge
and front face of the plane-iron,
95 ; by the bevelled edges of the
axe, 88 ; by the face and front
side of chisels, 90, 91 ; by the
faces of the Slojd-knife, 88.

Annual layers, concentric, -29-31.

Apple, the, 38, 47, 50, 5G.

Area of Slojd-room, 20.

Articles of luxury, 12.

Articles, modelled, 12
„ rectangular, 12.
„ rejected, 15.
„ sale of, 26.

Artificial light in Slojd-room, 21.

Artisan, work of the, 1.

Asli, the, 31, 32, 35, 38, 39, 46-48, 53.
Aspen, the, 35, 46, 48, 53, 54.

Attachments of saw-blade, 82-84.

Attention, habits of, 2.

Auger-bit, the, 1 10.

Autumn wood, 30-32.

Axe, the, 7, 22, 47, 59, 60, 87, 8S.

Axe-handle, American, 231.

Axle-fitting, 164.

B

Back bench-vice, the, 62,63,64,65,66.

Bark, 28.

Bast, 28.

Beam-compasses, 73, 74.

Beech, the, 33-35, 38, 39, 42, 44, 46-

48, 50-52, 55, 198.
Bench, the, 62-67.

„ adjustable, 65.

„ double, 65.

„ Naas pattern, 64, 65.

„ Philips' Registered, 66.

„ single, 62-64.

„ Trainer's, 66, 67.
Bench drawer, the, 62, 64.
Bench-hook, 246.
Bench-pegs, 62, 63, 66.
Bench-rails, 62, 64, 66.
Bench-top, 62, 64-66.
Bench-well, 62, 64, 66.
Bench-set, the, 24. 251, footnote.
Benches required, number of, 254.
Bench-vice, back, 62, 63, 64, 65, <>6.

front, 62, 63, 66.
Bevel -cut, 128.
Bevel, mitre, 76.

„ set, 76.

„ wooden, 76.
Bevelled edge-planing, 150.
Bevelling, 138.

with draw-knife, 152.

256

Birch, the, 32, 38, 39, 42, 44, 46-48,

50-52, 54, 196-198.
Birch, figured, 46.
Bits, 108-112.
Blade of a saw, 77, 80.
Blocking, 180.

„ mortised, 182.
Blocks, for table tops, 43.
"Blue surface," 40, 43, 44.
Bodily labour, 2, 8.
Body, position of, during work, 21-24,

127, 129, 135, 139, 147.

Plates I.— VIII., 184-191.
Bolts, 62, 65.
Book-carrier, 224.
Book-shelves, 240.
Boot-jack, 227.
Boring, with bradawl, 150.
„ with centre-bit, 136.
„ with quill-bit, 134.

Bow-compasses, 73.
Bow-saw, the, 83.

broad-webbed, 83, 85.
Bowl for writing table, 218.
Box, 225.
Brace, the, 108, 109.

„ American, 109.

„ Swedish, 109.
Bracket, 236.
Bradawl, the, 112.

„ boring with, 150.
Broad-leaved trees, 30, 31, 33, 52.
Brushes for glue, 120.
Bucket, hooped, 241.

c

Cabinet^ 242.
Caliper-compasses, 74.
Cambium, 28.
Camphor, solution of, 45.
Camphor-tree, 49.
Canary-wood, American, 254.
" Captain " of Slojd-class, 25.

Carpentry, 7, 8.

Slqjd, 6, 7, 21.
Carving-tools, 89, 92, 93.
Carving wood, 8.
Cedar, the, 49.
Cells, wood, 28.
Cellulose, 29.
Centre-bit, the, 22, 110, 111.

„ boring with, 136.

„ sharpening the, 111.
Chamfering, 156.

Changes which wood undergoes, 35.
Chestnut, the, 52, 55, 254.
Chisel, the, 7, 89-91.

„ bent, 93.

„ firmer, 90.

„ mortise, 91.
Chiselling, concave, 144.
Chiselling, oblique, 144.

„ perpendicular, 142.
Chopping, 144. Plate VII.
Chopping-block, 88.
Circular sawing, 156.
Clamping, dove-tail, 154.
Clamps, 43

„ saw-sharpening, 79.
Class-teaching, 16, 17.
Cleavage of wood, 34.
Cloak-suspender, 226
Clothes-rack, 221.
Colour of wood, 48, 49.
Colouring matter, 34.
Common dove-tailing, 160.

„ mortise and tenon, 170.
Compasses, 24, 73, 74.
„ beam, 73, 74.

„ bow, 73.

„ caliper, 74.
Compass-plane, the, 102.
„ saw, 80, 86, 166.
Concave chiselling, 144.

„ cut, 138.

„ modelling with the plane, 1 78.
Concealed tenoning, 180.

257

Concentric annual layers, 29-31.
Constituents of sap, 34, 35.
Constructions, geometrical, 13, 254.
Convex cut, 128.

„ modelling with plane, 140.
„ sawing, 138.
Corky layer, the, 28.
Cost of providing tools, 254.

„ „ timber, &c., 254.

Counter-sink drill, the, 110, 112.
Cover of the plane, 95, 96.
Cracking of timber, 36, 39, 40-43.
Cramp, thumb-screw, 70.
Crayon-holder, 216.
Cross-cut, the, 126.
" Cross-grained " wood, 46.
Cross-section of stem, 27, 28.
Cut, bevel, 128.

„ concave, 138.

„ convex, 128.

„ cross, 126.

„ long, 126.
Cut, oblique, 128.

„ plane surface, 140.
Cutting-gauge, the, 73.

Day-book, teacher's, 26.
Deal, red, 254.
Decay of timber, 43.
Dexterity, technical, 3-5.
Dibble, 245.

Dove-tail clamping, 154.
„ filletster, 103.
„ saw, 86.
Dove-tailing, 15, 73, 125.

„ common, 160.
half-lap, 172.

„ in thick wood, 168.

„ notched, 176.

„ oblique, 174.

„ single, at right angles, 158.
Dowels, 124.
Drawing-board, 234.

Drawings, 13, 254.
Drawings in perspective, 13.
Draw-knife, the, 7, 89.

„ bevelling with, 152.

„ modelling with, 156.

Dressing up with the smoothing-

plane, 146; with spokeshave, 146.
"Dry-rot," 44.
Durability of timber, 45, 51.
Duramen, 32.

E

Ebony, 32, 47, 50, 57.
Edge-grooving, half concealed, 176 ;

oblique, 166.
Edge-planing, 130.

„ bevelled, 150.

Edges, straight, 76, 77.
Educational and practical Slojd, 1.
Educational Slojd, aim of, 2.
Elasticity of timber, 48.
Elder, the, 33.
Elm, the, 31, 32, 35, 38, 39, 44, 46-48,

50, 51, 53.
End-squaring, 148.
English handscrew, 69.

„ marking-gauge, 72.
Exercises, the, 6, 10, 11, 60, 126-183,

196-199, 209-213.
Expansion-bit, the, 111, 112.
Eye of the axehead, 88.

Face of chisel, 90.
Face-planing, 77, 136.
Fermentation of sap, 43.
Fibres of wood, 29.
File, the, 22, 80, 105, 106.

„ to clean, 106.

„ to use, 106.

„ triangular, 80.
File-grade, the, 105.
Filing, 136.
Filletster, the dove-tail, 103.

258

" Finer " kinds of manual work, 8.
Fir, the, 32, 34, 35, 38, 39, 46, 48, 50,

51, 52, 196.
Firmer, the, 93.

„ the corner, 93.
Firmer-chisel, the, 90.
Fitting in pegs, 148.
Pixing hinges, 172.
Fixing with wooden pegs, 158.
Fixing with screws, 156.
Flat ruler, 227.
Flower-pot cross, 220.

„ stand, 222.

„ stick, 215.
Flower-press, 226.
Flower-stick, 215.
Fluting, 170.
Foot-stool, 223.
Frame-saw, the, 78, 82.
Fungi, 44.

Gauge, cutting, 73.

„ marking, 24, 71, 72, 236.
Gauging, 134.
Gee Cramp, the, 70.
Geometrical constructions, 13, 254.
Glue, 21, 119-123.
„ liquid, 120.
Glue-brushes, 120.

„ pot, 120.
Glueing, 121-123, 150.

„ with aid of handscrew, 166.
Gouge, the, 89, 91.

hollowing out with, 162.
scooping out with, 162.
curved, 93.
front bent, 93.
parting, 93.
spoon, 92.
straight, 93.
Gouging, oblique, 154.
„ perpendicular, 152.

Gouging with gouge and spoon-iron,

144.
Grain, against the, 49.

„ endway of the, 49.

„ length way of the, 49.

„ with the, 49.

„ the silver, 33.
Graving with V tool or parting-tool,

170.

Grinding tools, 88, 115.
Grinding- rest, 116.
Grinding-support, 116.
Grindstone, the, 115, 116.
Groove-jointing, 125.
Groove-saw, 86, 87.
Grooving, 73, 87, 166.
Gymnastics, 18, 21, 22.

H

Habits of accuracy, 2, 14, 15.
„ attention, 2.
„ industry, 2.
„ order, 2.
„ self-reliance, 2, 14.
Half-concealed edge-grooving, 176.
Half-lap dove-tailing, 172.
Half-lapping, 170.
Halving, 125.

„ with knife, 148.
Hammer, the, 113.

„ the set, 179.
Hammer-handle, 219.
Hand, use of the right and left, 22.
Handle of a saw, 83.
Hand-saw, the, 85.
Handscrew, the, 68, 69.
„ adjustable, 69.
„ English, 69.
„ iron, 70.
„ wooden, 68.
„ glueing with, 166.
Hard wood, work in, 148.
Hardness of timber, 46-48.

INDEX.

259

Harmonious Physical development,

•21, 22.

Hazel, the, 48.
Heart-wood, the, 32, 47.
Height of Slojd-room, 20.
Hi-h School series of models, 196.
Hinges, fixing, 172.
Hinge-plates, 112.
Hinge-sinking, 172.
Hold-fast, the, 67.
Hole-rimer drill, 110, 112.
Hollow, the, 102.
Hollowing out with gouge, 162.

„ with plane, 178.
Hooped bucket, 241.
Hooping, 125, 178.
Hoops for barrels, 89, 178.
Horn of the plane, 94, 99.
Hornbeam, the, 32, 35, 38, 39, 46-48,

50, 52.
Housing, 164.

I

Impregnation of timber, 42, 45.
Individual instruction, 16.
Industry, habits of, 2.
Insects, attacks of, 44, 45.
Instruction, individual, 16.
„ intuitional, 13.
„ time given to, 18.
Intuitional instruction, 13.
Iron handscrew, the, 70.
„ plane, the, 100, 101.

Jack-plane, the, 24, 98, 99.
Jointing, 119, 125.

„ plain, 96, 152.
Juniper, the, 48-50, 52.

Key of bench, 63.
Key-hole saw, the, 166.
Key-label, 216.

Knife, the, 7, 22, 24, 88, 89.
Knife-board, 220.
Knife-box, 230.

Labour, bodily, 2, 8.

Ladle, 225.

Lamp-stand, wall, 228.

Larch, the, 32, 38, 39, 48, 50-52.

Letter-opener, 215.

Lid, 248.

Light in Slojd-room, artificial, 21.

Lignum vitoe, 47, 50, 57.

Lime, the, 35, 38, 39, 46-48, 50, 254.

Liquid glue, 120.

Lock-fitting, 174.

Long-cut, 126.

Long oblique planing, 164.

Long- sawing, 130.

Luxury, articles of, 12.

M

Mahogany, 38, 39, 49, 50, 57.

Mallet, the, 113.

Maple, the, 33, 35, 38, 39, 46-48, 50,

56.

Marker, the, 71, 72.
Marking-gauge, the, 24, 71, 72, 236.
„ English, 72.

„ Johansson's, 72.

„ Landmark's, 71.

Marking-point, the, 71
Match-box, 231.
Measurements, 70, 71.
Medulla, the, 28.
Medullary rays, the, 28, 33.
Metal plates, &c., sinking and fixing,

150.

Method, 9.
Metre-measure, the, 13, 24, 70, 71,

220.

Mitre-bevel, the, 76.
Mitreing, 125, 168.
Mitre-shooting, 68.

2GO

Modelled articles, 12.

Modelling, convex, 140.

Modelling with the draw-knife, 156 ;

with the plane, 140, 178 ; with

the spokeshave, 146.
Models, the, 11-14, 196 ; rejected, 15.
Monitor of Slojd-class, the, 25.
Mortise and tenon, common, 170.
Mortise and tenon-jointing, 125.
Mortise-chisel, the, 91.
Mortised blocking, 182.
Muriatic acid, 45.

N

Naas Slqjd diagrams, 13 (footnote).
Nailing, 123, 150.
Nails, beat, 123.
„ cut, 123.
Needle-leaved trees, 30-32, 34, 40, 44,

49, 52.
Notched dove-tailing, 176.

Oak, the, 31-35, 38, 39, 46-52, 55, 198.
Oblique chiselling, 144.

„ cut, 128.

„ dove-tailing, 174.

„ edge-grooving, 168.

„ gouging, 154.

„ paring, 144.

„ planing, 146, 164.

„ sawing, 146.

„ slotting, 176.
Obstacle-planing, 142.
Oil-paint, 45.
Oils, volatile, 35.
Oilstone, the, 117.

„ method of using, 117-
Oilstone-slip, 118.
Order, habits of, 2.
Osier, the, 48.
Outside-pan of glue-pot, 119, 120.

Packthread-winder, 216.
Panel-grooving, 166.
Panels of doors, 43.
Paper-knife, 218.
Parcel-pin, 214.
Paring, perpendicular, 142.

„ oblique, 144.
Parting-gouge, 93.
Parting-tool, bent, 93.

„ straight, 93.
Pear, the, 39, 47, 50, 56.
Pen-box, 233.
Pen-rest, 217.
Pen-tray, 219.
Peg of a saw, 83.
Pegs, fitting in, 148.
Pegs, fixing with wooden, 158.
Perpendicular chiselling, 142.

„ gouging, 152.

Perpendicular paring, 142.
Perspective drawings, 13.
Philips' Registered Bench, 66.
Physical development, harmonious,

21, 22.

Picture-frame, 237.
Pin- bit, the, 110.
Pincers, 112, 113.
Pine, the, 32, 34, 196-199.
Pins, wooden, 1 24.
Pith, the, 28, 30, 33, 41.
Plain-jointing, 96, 152.
Plane, the, 22, 61, 93 104.

„ the adjustable, 10J.

„ the compass, 102.

„ the hollow, 102.

„ the iron, 100, 101.

„ the jack, 24, 98, 99.

„ old woman's tooth, 102, I0a

„ the rebate, 101.

„ the round, 101.

„ the smoothing, 24, 60, 96, 100,
101.

INDEX.

261

Plane, the toothing, 123, footnote.

„ the trying, 24, 60, 96, 99, 100.
Plane, concave, modelling with, 178 ;
convex modelling with, 140;
hollowing out with, 178.
Plane, setting the, 98.
Plane-cover, the, 95, 96.
Plane-horn, the, 94, 99.
Plane-iron, the, 94, 96-98.
Plane sole, the, 94, 97.
Plane-stock, the, 94.
Plane-surface cut, the, 140.
Planing across the grain, 156.
,, with round plane, 156.
„ with shooting board, 162.
,, bevelled edge, 150.
,, edge, 130.
.. face, 77, 136.
,, long oblique, 164.
,, oblique, 146, 164.
,, stop, or obstacle, 142.
„ wedge, 156.
Pliers, flat-jawed, 114.

„ round-jawed, 114.
Plough, the, 104.
Plugging, 150.
Plumbago, 64.
Pointer, small, 214.
Poplar, the, 52, 54.
Pores in wood, the, 31.
Position of the body during work, 21,
24, 127, 129, 135, 139, 147.
Plates!.- VIII., 184-191.
Preliminary exercises, 11.
Projections, 13.
Punch, the, 124.
Punching, 152.
Pupils in Slojd-class, number of, 18.

Quill-bit, 110.

* boring with, 134.

Radial section, 27, 28.
Rails of the bench, 62, 64, 66.
Rasps, 106.
"Raw edge," 117.
Razor-strop, 218.
Rebating, 170.
Rebate-plane, the, 101.
Rebates, dove-tail, 104.
Rectangular articles, 12.
Red deal, 254.
Resin, 32, 35, 43, 45.
Resin-canals, 32.
Rip-sawing, 130.

Roller and rests for flower-press, 223.
Round ruler, 217.
„ stick, 231.

Round-plane, planing with, 156.
Rowan, the, 50, 56.
Rule, the two-foot, 13, 24, 71.
Ruler, the, 71 ; flat, 227 ; round, 217.
Rules for the Slojd-teacher, 24.

Sand-paper, 25, 107, 108.
Sale of articles, 26.
Sap, the, 28, 34.

constituents of, 34, 35.
crude or ascending, 34.
elaborated, 34
fermentation of, 43.
„ removal of, 42, 44, 45.
Sapwood, the, 32, 47.
SaAv, the, 22, 25, 47, 61, 77.
,, the bow, 83.

,, the broad-webbed bow, S3, 85
,, the compass, 80, 86, 166.
,, the dove- tail, 86.
„ the frame, 78, 82.
„ the groove, 86, 87.
„ the hand, 85.
„ the tenon, 86.
„ the turn, 85.

262

INDEX.

Saw, the wood, 78, 81.

Saw, frame of, 60.

Saw, setting the, 7S-S1.

Saw, sharpening the, 80, 81.

Saw, working the, 84.

Saw-blade, the, 77, 80.

Saw-blade, attachments of the, 82-84.

Saw-cut, width of the, 79.

Saw-peg, the, 83.

Saw-set, the, 79, 80.

Saw-stretcher, 83.

Saw-sharpening clamps, 79.

Sawing, circular, 156.

„ convex, 138.

„ long, 130.

„ oblique, 146.

„ rip, 130.

„ up and down, 182.

„ wave, 140.
Sawing off, 128.
Sawing with compass-saw, 166.

„ with tenon-saw, 140.
Scoop, 221.

Scooping out with gouge, 162.
Scraper, the, 24, 106, 107.
Scraping, 107, 142.
Screw-driver, the, 112, 114.
Screw-driver bit, the, 110, 112.
Screwing together, 122, 124, 156.
Screws, fixing with, 156.
Screws, wood, 124, 125.
Seasoning of timber, 40-42, 44.
Section of stem, cross, 27, 28.
„ radial, 27, 28.

tangential, 27, 28.
Self-reliance, habits of, 2, 14.
Septa, transverse, 33.
Set-bevel, the, 76.
Set-hammer, the, 179.
Set-square, 232.
Setting out, 70, 164.
Setting the plane, 98.
Setting the saw, 78-81.

Setting-tongs, 80.
Sharp tools, 24, 25, 61, 115.
Sharpening the centre-bit, 111.
„ the saw, SO, 81.

tools, SS, 115.

Shooting-board, the, 67, 68.
Shoulder of chisel, 90.
Shrinkage of timber, 36-39, 45.
.Shuttle, 229.
Silver grain, the, 33.
Single dove-tailing at right angles,

158.
Sinking and fixing metal plates, &c.,

150.

Situation of Sldjd-room, 20.
Size of tools, 59, 60.
Slojd, aim of, 1.

„ educational, 1 .
Slojd and gymnastics, 21.
Slojd-carpentry, 6, 7, 21.
Slbjd-diagrams, Niias, 13 (footnote).
Slojd knife, 88, 89.
Slojd-room, 18-21. Plate IX., 192.
Slotting, 125, 168.

„ oblique, 176.
Small table, 243.
Smoothing up, 146.
Smoothing with the spokeshave, 146.
Smoothing-plane, the, 24, 60, 96, 100,

101.
Smoothing-plane, dressing up with

the, 146.

Sole of the plane, 94, 97.
Specific gravity of timber, 50.
Spindle of marking-gauge, 71-73.
Spokeshave, the, 104.

„ modelling with the, 146.
„ smoothing up with the, 146.
^poon, 246.
Spoon-gouge, the, 92.
Spoon-iron, the, 7, 92.
Sprigs, 123.
Spring-wood, 29.

263

Square, the, 24, 74, 75, 76, 234.

. „ steel, 75.
„ wooden, 75.
., to test the, 75, 76.
Square-grooving, 164.
Square-shooting, 162.
Squaring, 132.
Stand for tools, 238.
Starch, 34.
Staving, 178.
Steaming, 42, 45.
Stick, round, 231.
Stock of marking-gauge, 71, 72.

„ of plane, 94.

„ of set bevel, 76.

„ of square, 75.
Stool, 233.
Stop-planing, 142.
Straight-edges, 70, 77.
Straight- fibred wood, 29, 46, 94.
Strength of timber, 45, 46.
Stretcher of saw, S3.
String of saw, 83.
Sugar, 34.

Support for grinding, 116.
Support for hand, in jack plane, 93.
Surface cut, plane, 140.
Swelling of timber, 36, 39, 45.
Sycamore, the, 254.

Table, small, 243.

Tang of knife, 88.

„ of chisel, 90.

Tangential section of stem, 27, 28.
Tannic acid, 35, 43, 45.
Tea-tray, 23f).

Teacher of Slojd, the, 2-6, 61.
Technical dexterity, 3-5.
Teeth of the saw, 77, 78, 81, 84.
Tenon, common mortise and, 170.
Tenon saw, the, 86.
Tenoning, concealed, 180.

Texture of timber, 48.
Thumb-screw cramp, the, 70.
Tightener of saw, 83, 84.
Timber (see also Wood), 27.

., absolute weight of, 51.

„ colour of, 48, 49.

„ cost of, 25 i.

„ decay of, 43.

., durability of, 45, 51.

„ elasticity of, 48.

„ hardness of, 46-48.

„ seasoning of, 40-42, 44.

„ smell of, 48, 49.

„ Specific gravity of, 50.

,. strength of, 45, 46.

„ texture of, 48.

„ time for cutting down, 40, 44.

„ toughness of, 48.

., warping of, 36, 40-42.

„ weight of, 50.
Time given to instruction, 18.
Tools required for different numbers

of pupils, 251-253.
Tools, choice of, 59-61, 254.

,, cost of providing, 254.

„ cupboard for, 118. Plate XL,
194, 195.

„ sharp, 24, 25, 61, 115.

„ sharpening, 88, 115-118.

„ size of, 59, 60.

„ stand for, 238.

„ toy, 59.

Tool-cupboard, the, 118. Plate XI.
Toothing plane, the, 123 (footnote).
Towel-roller and rests, 247.
Trainor's bench, 66, 67.
Trammel-heads, 74.
Transverse septa, 33.
Trees, broad-leaved, 30, 31, 33, 52.

„ needle-leaved, 30-32, 34, 40, 44,

49, 52.

Trying-plane, the, 24, 60, 96, 99, 100.
Turning, 8.

264

INDEX.

Turn-saw, the, 85.
Turpentine, 35.

u

Up-and-down sawing, 182.

Varnish, 45.
Vessels, 31, 49.
Vice-tongue, 63.
Volatile oils, 35.
V-tool, 170.

w

Wall lamp-stand, 238.
Walls of the Slojd-room, 20.
Walnut, the, 38, 39, 42, 47, 50, 56.
Warming the Slojd-room, 20, 21.
Warping of timber, 36, 40-42.
Water-capacity, 35, 36.
Wave-sawing, 140.
Wedge of the plane, the, 94, 96, 97.
Wedge-planing with smoothing-plane,

156.

Weight of timber, 50.
„ absolute, 51.
White beam, the, 39, 46-48, 56.
Width of saw-cut, 79.

Willow, the, 35.
Winding-laths, 76, 77.
Windows of the Slojd-room, 20.
Wire-cutter, the, 113.
Wood (see also Timber), 27.

„ autumn, 30-32.

„ colour of, 48, 49.

„ cost of, 254.

„ cross-grained, 46.

„ spring, 29.

„ straight-fibred, 29, 46, 94.

„ work in hard, 148.
Wooden bevel, the, 76.

„ handscrew, the, 68.
Wooden pins, 124.
Wood-carving, 8.
Wood-cells, 28.
Wood-cement, 121.
Wood-fibres, 29.
Wood-saw, the, 78, 81.
Wood-screws, 124, 125.
.Wood-Slojd, 6.
Work in hard wood, 148.
Working the saw, 84.

Yew, the, 33.

THE LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

Santa Barbara

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